ronny

That's right, I asked them 10 years ago and they wouldn't do it

If you like doing a few skids with a LSD... make sure you get the wheels spinning before you turn the steering wheel

I thort 60 70 PSI of oil pressure is the norm for a clevo? both mine run about 90 95 psi when there cold and 60 to 70 always while driving  I seen towtoy it droped under 60 when I was in NSW a little while ago and I flipped out and changed the oil and even cut open the filter to look it over  

Ive always been told 10psi for every 1000rpm so 70psi for a engine that can turn to 7000rpm

I run hv pumps in 2 of my clevos and my old xr8. The wezors done over 160.000km in my ownership heaps of stupid shit, towtoys done over 32.000 now, and the grey car about 50.000 over the last 8 years and that engine had been around a fair while before I got it.

If its In there id just run with it, even more so if its just a streeter that never sees heaps of RPM for a long time, it already has a 7.5 litre sump on it I don't think it will empty that in a hurry and clevos have tons of drain holes

A easy way to see what its doing is make a rocker cover with a tall top and cap that unbolts/unclamps hold the engine at RPM and see what its doing none of mine will fill my made up cover and ive held it at RPM for a while and it never fills the cover up much past the gasket (this was more the drain holes are not as big as stock clevo cast heads and I wanted to make sure it was not going to cause a issue with that engine) so I fitted that cover to see. My cover is a stock cover with the top hacked out the top extended about 4 inch with 2 rods welded into it to hold a clear perspecs cover I used it for look at valve train things adjusting rollers and In towtoys case oil drainback. you cant always see thru the clear bit as oil will splash at RPM but its more a rocker adjusting tool then anything else bit I used it for that
 

What Gerg said, but id just not worry about the PCV
Chances of getting pulled over, small
Chances of bonnet to be popped once pulled over, smaller
Chances the cop realises the PCV is missing, smallest
And if you get busted, just fix it then

What Gerg said, but id just not worry about the PCV
Chances of getting pulled over, small
Chances of bonnet to be popped once pulled over, smaller
Chances the cop realises the PCV is missing, smallest
And if you get busted, just fix it then

What Gerg said, but id just not worry about the PCV
Chances of getting pulled over, small
Chances of bonnet to be popped once pulled over, smaller
Chances the cop realises the PCV is missing, smallest
And if you get busted, just fix it then

I saw a cool fix for this, drill a hole in the back of the guage, put a hose barb in,  chuck on some vaccuum hose,run to ya heater, and put a fitting in your plastic cowling on ya heater box, and hook her up. (be careful not to drill into something you shouldn't).
Then you can demist ya guages if they fog up.
Newer guages are completely sealed and don't fog.
 
Jack.

Thats odd, maybe there is a delay with the sensor
If you had a lap top hooked up plotting AFR, you should see a rich spike when you stab it

Yeah higher float level gives fuel quicker
I play with the level a bit on mine at the drags
Prob not a good idea, when your secondaries are working you are getting a fair bit of air coming in
So you need the extra fuel to compensate

As sly said, how long at WOT cos the extra fuel from the squirters takes a bit to clear
 
Also i still wouldnt go smaller than primaries with secondary main jets, id try to reduce the fuel from the PV circuit first

I've never heard one good thing about those desert cooler blokes.

try a smaller PV

Timber. Dirt. Kids

Fixed
I gave nick a hand last night and there were 2 problems
First was the filter on the pick up in the tank had pushed itself up which stopped any fuel getting through
Second was the needle and seat needed a few taps to free up and let fuel through (spot on gerg)

It's alive !!!
 
Major thanks to Ronny for getting this Crossflow to run, after going through replacing fuel filter and hoses I had given up but Ronny was permitted to get it started as we had some funny moments while working on the old girl.
 
It's amazing how something so small can make you check everything from fuel pump right back to the fuel sender (what a mission it was lol) as we covered everything we could think of as we thought it could be the fuel pump but we remembered your reply gerg ... Ronny magic's flat head screwdriver playing with needle and seat then bang we had fuel running through the carby as she started we had a perished heater tap.
 
Today I changed the heater tap and she practically started first turn key, I let her run for 15 mins then took it around the block twice with no missing running smooth as braking good but will need to fix the handbrake cable which is standard on these cars.
 
Thanks all of your replies with info gerg, SPArKy_Dave and thank you again Ronny couldn't have done it without your help.
 
Info on the car is a 1981 Dec build Ford XD Fairmont 4.1 litre Alloy Head Crossflow, sold from President Ford as my uncle had owned it from 1982 which I took ownership of in 1999 from Mount Waverly.
 
I have 2 options:-
 
1:- to sell it or
2:- part it out interior is immac has some great parts as we discussed with Ronny last night but ....
 
as there is some rust in the old girl all repairable but I've let the old girl go being parked up and the grandparents place for the last few years as I usually drove it when I needed a car to get to A to B.
 
I' have to make a decision ASAP but I'll keep you posted and post some pictures up as well of the old girl too.

Fixed
I gave nick a hand last night and there were 2 problems
First was the filter on the pick up in the tank had pushed itself up which stopped any fuel getting through
Second was the needle and seat needed a few taps to free up and let fuel through (spot on gerg)

Fixed
I gave nick a hand last night and there were 2 problems
First was the filter on the pick up in the tank had pushed itself up which stopped any fuel getting through
Second was the needle and seat needed a few taps to free up and let fuel through (spot on gerg)

I bet its a cracked/split rubber fuel hose leading up to the fuel pump
Dont worry about checking hoses up to the carby, if its leaking there you will see it as there is pressure after the pump

LMAO....nah, mate. Just wondering on what your average $170 rad came with as standard. Got one on the bucket list for the XA. 

Lets see how long they last lol
If i get 2 years i'll be stoked and buy another

All up cost $165
Plus contra deal on the mods
Mods: "Cover plate" on top to hide the U channel, bung welded to tank for drain valve, overflow barb moved around 90 degrees on filler neck
Sell it? $400 its yours then ill have to go buy and modify another one lol
(having a valve for drainage on my current radiator and trying to work out the wierd thread (1/2" BSP) and buying the tap and making the bung was a pain in the A)

Are you retensioning the new belts after some driving?
Ive found new belts stretch a fair bit

Are you retensioning the new belts after some driving?
Ive found new belts stretch a fair bit

I've seen this on speedway engines and the lads usually make up their idler to go on the longest stretch of the belt to stop it from whipping. Don't have pics to help sorry. I hate throwing belts though, every time I thrashed the old mans edxr6 the bastard would throw the belt off and he knew I'd been thrashing it