Lord_fahrquhar

Pre au is 0 offset and au on is +35 on a 114.3 5 stud pcd.
 
So xf wheels will fit  - might have to drop the callipers off as the rotor is larger than the x series.  Id use 15" as a minimum.

Pre au is 0 offset and au on is +35 on a 114.3 5 stud pcd.
 
So xf wheels will fit  - might have to drop the callipers off as the rotor is larger than the x series.  Id use 15" as a minimum.

Having done this conversion recently some traps for new players:
 
XG, XH and XF are all different in terms of radiators.  Sizing mounting points are all different.  XG rad mounts do bolt through the rad support into the XF mount holes.  The bottom rad support is miles different.  XG radiators do not have provision for the ubiquitous Eseries overflow bottle. I went and put an EF radiator in mine, had to make custom mounts top and bottom.  Had to space out and modify the receiver dryer to sit forward a bit more and chop quite a bit of steel on the support panel to make it fit.  The E-series radiator is just that much wider.  It also has to be balanced against the location of the coolant overflow bottle too, which on my car was helped by relocating the battery.  Because mine is mounted forward a bit the au hose was just simply chopped down. XG mount plates and regular XF/EA/ED engine mounts are all you need to make it physically fit.  Yes, it will be a bit tight in terms of spacing around the alternator but it will be fine.  Balancer will clear an XF front crossmember too. Regular e series top hose and XG bottom hose.  Be prepared to trim them a little depending on the radiator you use. For air con - crib the fittings TX valve, pipes etc from an XG.  Cut the hoses and mount to an AU metal mount on the compressor. Wiring - largely standard ford colour scheme runs across the XF to AU.  I hid quite a bit of it and ran it back inside the car, across the dash.  Engine loom will largely be easy, but you will need to interface Red switched power feed (ignition switch) Yellow Black Keep Alive Memory (constant 12V) HEGO switched relay - Au's run a 4 wire hego - so sensor 12V, and two grounds run back to the ECU.  12V relay for the heater comes in from the main loom Speedo - white wire will need to feed back to the computer Red black reverse switch back to the main loom (this is the 8 wire plug that normally  carries speedo, rpm, oil etc) RPM (pink blue) Air con  - Run the blue wire from the dash around to the opposite side of the car.  The two wires that run to the low pressure switch need to be connected to the XG TX valve assembly (or you can run the xf stuff with custom piping).  A seperate aircon wire will need to go to the ECU for ac demand. Fan relay controllers. Starter relay - its really complex so I bypassed it and ran the starter wire through to the Au ecu loom.  Au's run the starter wire through the transmission neutral start switch, smart lock, then the ecu which signals the starter relay.  So in effect the ecu doesn't make this call now the motor is switched on in the standard way. If you run the EF hose pipe assembly you will need to modify to fit around the strut tower.  This was made easier for me as I drilled and tapped the strut brace (Castlemaine rod shop brought) to assist. Get the rod ship lower stabiliser bar, life is just so much easier than cutting and shutting sumps. If you can get the au bell housing do it, its not strictly necessary but I managed to find one, to mount the xf t5 on the back of.  (so its got a lower first than a e series t5). Headers will land in a slightly different spot but e series stuff will help you out in a pinch Power steering lines - XG is metric and XF imperial on the fittings.  You will have to swap fittings to adapt to a e series power steering pump.  I used XG hoses and fittings, and swapped the xf fitting onto the pipe.

Having done this conversion recently some traps for new players:
 
XG, XH and XF are all different in terms of radiators.  Sizing mounting points are all different.  XG rad mounts do bolt through the rad support into the XF mount holes.  The bottom rad support is miles different.  XG radiators do not have provision for the ubiquitous Eseries overflow bottle. I went and put an EF radiator in mine, had to make custom mounts top and bottom.  Had to space out and modify the receiver dryer to sit forward a bit more and chop quite a bit of steel on the support panel to make it fit.  The E-series radiator is just that much wider.  It also has to be balanced against the location of the coolant overflow bottle too, which on my car was helped by relocating the battery.  Because mine is mounted forward a bit the au hose was just simply chopped down. XG mount plates and regular XF/EA/ED engine mounts are all you need to make it physically fit.  Yes, it will be a bit tight in terms of spacing around the alternator but it will be fine.  Balancer will clear an XF front crossmember too. Regular e series top hose and XG bottom hose.  Be prepared to trim them a little depending on the radiator you use. For air con - crib the fittings TX valve, pipes etc from an XG.  Cut the hoses and mount to an AU metal mount on the compressor. Wiring - largely standard ford colour scheme runs across the XF to AU.  I hid quite a bit of it and ran it back inside the car, across the dash.  Engine loom will largely be easy, but you will need to interface Red switched power feed (ignition switch) Yellow Black Keep Alive Memory (constant 12V) HEGO switched relay - Au's run a 4 wire hego - so sensor 12V, and two grounds run back to the ECU.  12V relay for the heater comes in from the main loom Speedo - white wire will need to feed back to the computer Red black reverse switch back to the main loom (this is the 8 wire plug that normally  carries speedo, rpm, oil etc) RPM (pink blue) Air con  - Run the blue wire from the dash around to the opposite side of the car.  The two wires that run to the low pressure switch need to be connected to the XG TX valve assembly (or you can run the xf stuff with custom piping).  A seperate aircon wire will need to go to the ECU for ac demand. Fan relay controllers. Starter relay - its really complex so I bypassed it and ran the starter wire through to the Au ecu loom.  Au's run the starter wire through the transmission neutral start switch, smart lock, then the ecu which signals the starter relay.  So in effect the ecu doesn't make this call now the motor is switched on in the standard way. If you run the EF hose pipe assembly you will need to modify to fit around the strut tower.  This was made easier for me as I drilled and tapped the strut brace (Castlemaine rod shop brought) to assist. Get the rod ship lower stabiliser bar, life is just so much easier than cutting and shutting sumps. If you can get the au bell housing do it, its not strictly necessary but I managed to find one, to mount the xf t5 on the back of.  (so its got a lower first than a e series t5). Headers will land in a slightly different spot but e series stuff will help you out in a pinch Power steering lines - XG is metric and XF imperial on the fittings.  You will have to swap fittings to adapt to a e series power steering pump.  I used XG hoses and fittings, and swapped the xf fitting onto the pipe.

Having done this conversion recently some traps for new players:
 
XG, XH and XF are all different in terms of radiators.  Sizing mounting points are all different.  XG rad mounts do bolt through the rad support into the XF mount holes.  The bottom rad support is miles different.  XG radiators do not have provision for the ubiquitous Eseries overflow bottle. I went and put an EF radiator in mine, had to make custom mounts top and bottom.  Had to space out and modify the receiver dryer to sit forward a bit more and chop quite a bit of steel on the support panel to make it fit.  The E-series radiator is just that much wider.  It also has to be balanced against the location of the coolant overflow bottle too, which on my car was helped by relocating the battery.  Because mine is mounted forward a bit the au hose was just simply chopped down. XG mount plates and regular XF/EA/ED engine mounts are all you need to make it physically fit.  Yes, it will be a bit tight in terms of spacing around the alternator but it will be fine.  Balancer will clear an XF front crossmember too. Regular e series top hose and XG bottom hose.  Be prepared to trim them a little depending on the radiator you use. For air con - crib the fittings TX valve, pipes etc from an XG.  Cut the hoses and mount to an AU metal mount on the compressor. Wiring - largely standard ford colour scheme runs across the XF to AU.  I hid quite a bit of it and ran it back inside the car, across the dash.  Engine loom will largely be easy, but you will need to interface Red switched power feed (ignition switch) Yellow Black Keep Alive Memory (constant 12V) HEGO switched relay - Au's run a 4 wire hego - so sensor 12V, and two grounds run back to the ECU.  12V relay for the heater comes in from the main loom Speedo - white wire will need to feed back to the computer Red black reverse switch back to the main loom (this is the 8 wire plug that normally  carries speedo, rpm, oil etc) RPM (pink blue) Air con  - Run the blue wire from the dash around to the opposite side of the car.  The two wires that run to the low pressure switch need to be connected to the XG TX valve assembly (or you can run the xf stuff with custom piping).  A seperate aircon wire will need to go to the ECU for ac demand. Fan relay controllers. Starter relay - its really complex so I bypassed it and ran the starter wire through to the Au ecu loom.  Au's run the starter wire through the transmission neutral start switch, smart lock, then the ecu which signals the starter relay.  So in effect the ecu doesn't make this call now the motor is switched on in the standard way. If you run the EF hose pipe assembly you will need to modify to fit around the strut tower.  This was made easier for me as I drilled and tapped the strut brace (Castlemaine rod shop brought) to assist. Get the rod ship lower stabiliser bar, life is just so much easier than cutting and shutting sumps. If you can get the au bell housing do it, its not strictly necessary but I managed to find one, to mount the xf t5 on the back of.  (so its got a lower first than a e series t5). Headers will land in a slightly different spot but e series stuff will help you out in a pinch Power steering lines - XG is metric and XF imperial on the fittings.  You will have to swap fittings to adapt to a e series power steering pump.  I used XG hoses and fittings, and swapped the xf fitting onto the pipe.

Having done this conversion recently some traps for new players:
 
XG, XH and XF are all different in terms of radiators.  Sizing mounting points are all different.  XG rad mounts do bolt through the rad support into the XF mount holes.  The bottom rad support is miles different.  XG radiators do not have provision for the ubiquitous Eseries overflow bottle. I went and put an EF radiator in mine, had to make custom mounts top and bottom.  Had to space out and modify the receiver dryer to sit forward a bit more and chop quite a bit of steel on the support panel to make it fit.  The E-series radiator is just that much wider.  It also has to be balanced against the location of the coolant overflow bottle too, which on my car was helped by relocating the battery.  Because mine is mounted forward a bit the au hose was just simply chopped down. XG mount plates and regular XF/EA/ED engine mounts are all you need to make it physically fit.  Yes, it will be a bit tight in terms of spacing around the alternator but it will be fine.  Balancer will clear an XF front crossmember too. Regular e series top hose and XG bottom hose.  Be prepared to trim them a little depending on the radiator you use. For air con - crib the fittings TX valve, pipes etc from an XG.  Cut the hoses and mount to an AU metal mount on the compressor. Wiring - largely standard ford colour scheme runs across the XF to AU.  I hid quite a bit of it and ran it back inside the car, across the dash.  Engine loom will largely be easy, but you will need to interface Red switched power feed (ignition switch) Yellow Black Keep Alive Memory (constant 12V) HEGO switched relay - Au's run a 4 wire hego - so sensor 12V, and two grounds run back to the ECU.  12V relay for the heater comes in from the main loom Speedo - white wire will need to feed back to the computer Red black reverse switch back to the main loom (this is the 8 wire plug that normally  carries speedo, rpm, oil etc) RPM (pink blue) Air con  - Run the blue wire from the dash around to the opposite side of the car.  The two wires that run to the low pressure switch need to be connected to the XG TX valve assembly (or you can run the xf stuff with custom piping).  A seperate aircon wire will need to go to the ECU for ac demand. Fan relay controllers. Starter relay - its really complex so I bypassed it and ran the starter wire through to the Au ecu loom.  Au's run the starter wire through the transmission neutral start switch, smart lock, then the ecu which signals the starter relay.  So in effect the ecu doesn't make this call now the motor is switched on in the standard way. If you run the EF hose pipe assembly you will need to modify to fit around the strut tower.  This was made easier for me as I drilled and tapped the strut brace (Castlemaine rod shop brought) to assist. Get the rod ship lower stabiliser bar, life is just so much easier than cutting and shutting sumps. If you can get the au bell housing do it, its not strictly necessary but I managed to find one, to mount the xf t5 on the back of.  (so its got a lower first than a e series t5). Headers will land in a slightly different spot but e series stuff will help you out in a pinch Power steering lines - XG is metric and XF imperial on the fittings.  You will have to swap fittings to adapt to a e series power steering pump.  I used XG hoses and fittings, and swapped the xf fitting onto the pipe.

Having done this conversion recently some traps for new players:
 
XG, XH and XF are all different in terms of radiators.  Sizing mounting points are all different.  XG rad mounts do bolt through the rad support into the XF mount holes.  The bottom rad support is miles different.  XG radiators do not have provision for the ubiquitous Eseries overflow bottle. I went and put an EF radiator in mine, had to make custom mounts top and bottom.  Had to space out and modify the receiver dryer to sit forward a bit more and chop quite a bit of steel on the support panel to make it fit.  The E-series radiator is just that much wider.  It also has to be balanced against the location of the coolant overflow bottle too, which on my car was helped by relocating the battery.  Because mine is mounted forward a bit the au hose was just simply chopped down. XG mount plates and regular XF/EA/ED engine mounts are all you need to make it physically fit.  Yes, it will be a bit tight in terms of spacing around the alternator but it will be fine.  Balancer will clear an XF front crossmember too. Regular e series top hose and XG bottom hose.  Be prepared to trim them a little depending on the radiator you use. For air con - crib the fittings TX valve, pipes etc from an XG.  Cut the hoses and mount to an AU metal mount on the compressor. Wiring - largely standard ford colour scheme runs across the XF to AU.  I hid quite a bit of it and ran it back inside the car, across the dash.  Engine loom will largely be easy, but you will need to interface Red switched power feed (ignition switch) Yellow Black Keep Alive Memory (constant 12V) HEGO switched relay - Au's run a 4 wire hego - so sensor 12V, and two grounds run back to the ECU.  12V relay for the heater comes in from the main loom Speedo - white wire will need to feed back to the computer Red black reverse switch back to the main loom (this is the 8 wire plug that normally  carries speedo, rpm, oil etc) RPM (pink blue) Air con  - Run the blue wire from the dash around to the opposite side of the car.  The two wires that run to the low pressure switch need to be connected to the XG TX valve assembly (or you can run the xf stuff with custom piping).  A seperate aircon wire will need to go to the ECU for ac demand. Fan relay controllers. Starter relay - its really complex so I bypassed it and ran the starter wire through to the Au ecu loom.  Au's run the starter wire through the transmission neutral start switch, smart lock, then the ecu which signals the starter relay.  So in effect the ecu doesn't make this call now the motor is switched on in the standard way. If you run the EF hose pipe assembly you will need to modify to fit around the strut tower.  This was made easier for me as I drilled and tapped the strut brace (Castlemaine rod shop brought) to assist. Get the rod ship lower stabiliser bar, life is just so much easier than cutting and shutting sumps. If you can get the au bell housing do it, its not strictly necessary but I managed to find one, to mount the xf t5 on the back of.  (so its got a lower first than a e series t5). Headers will land in a slightly different spot but e series stuff will help you out in a pinch Power steering lines - XG is metric and XF imperial on the fittings.  You will have to swap fittings to adapt to a e series power steering pump.  I used XG hoses and fittings, and swapped the xf fitting onto the pipe.

Do a search, I've plagiarised sly dogs usual post below. I'm probably going to go down this route will be plenty quick to make me shit myself.
 
And then want more power... slippery slope this
 
Plagiarism below
 
 
From Jase Stoodley...
One of the combos I ran through the years was very healthy and only mild and was fun on the street i thought i would put it up here.
 
Block: 80da bored & honed .030
Crank: 250 ground & balanced
Rods: 250 machined balanced and 302w ARP bolts fitted
Pistons: ACL 21cc dish - combined with a 50 odd cc head was about 9.5:1 comp.
Cam: 230@50 530lift hydro - great cam for these motors!
Head: open chamber carby unmarked ported, 1.85" in, 1.55" exh valves, turned out it flowed 320hp
Springs: crow 7333 doubles - head needs machining for these.
 
Other parts included rollmaster chain, yella terra street terra bolt ons, crow pushrods, romac balancer.
 
Used to run a ultraflow manifold with a 500 holley went well but changed over to a cain and 600 vacuum secondaries and what a difference.
 
Was running a Hall dizzy with a MSD 6AL and MSD digital timing computer- the equivalent now would be a 6AL-2 programmable running 36deg total timing.
 
Used a 2200stall in a c4 with 3.7 rear gears.
 
the car was a full street car cortina ran 13.6 @ 100mph then 13.3@103 when i changed to the 600vac and made 200rwhp
 
The thing is every thing below the head is still the same motor in the car now.

Okay, eb and ef on are wired differently (reverse polarity)
 
Ef works by using vacuum to hold open the unit and power to restrict the idle back down.  ED and earlier use power to open up
 

Yes it does, and yes you can use an rpm switch on the solenoid.
 
BUT
 
No one does cams for them, you have to get your reground

Had a girlfriend once who was 110 on the seat...

Had a girlfriend once who was 110 on the seat...

Will it cleanse my anis and make me look hot

I have this setup in my xf.
 
Its easy to do, take an el loom and connect the 8 wires into the main xf wiring harness by the brake booster.  This will be basic switched power, oil lamp and coolant temp and kam (keep alive memory) and clutch.
 
Can then use a j3 chip and tuner pro rt to tune it.  If you have a moates quarter horse you can tune in real time too.
 
 
 
These two pictures describe it and taken from http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/11173-eb-efi-management-to-run-an-efi-xflow-thread/
 
 
Am I allowed to post that without being vilified lol?
 

Another afflicted with the dodge sickness.  Mines a at4-129 245 hemi.

Another afflicted with the dodge sickness.  Mines a at4-129 245 hemi.

Ah this little project....
 
i have a pile of bits. but as yet unassembled.
 
ef crank - free
xf block - have ground out the relief on the block to allow rollers
valves springs and head
inlet manifold - done previously.
 
pistons - to be brought 
rod bolts - need to get
cam not yet brought
 
panzerwagens are in the way at the moment.  

Ah this little project....
 
i have a pile of bits. but as yet unassembled.
 
ef crank - free
xf block - have ground out the relief on the block to allow rollers
valves springs and head
inlet manifold - done previously.
 
pistons - to be brought 
rod bolts - need to get
cam not yet brought
 
panzerwagens are in the way at the moment.  

Sound like said mechanic is a clown.

Is this where toungue punch her fartbox comes from lads.

Is this where toungue punch her fartbox comes from lads.

Shouldn't be, most of the xf shit was the lower firewall panel for the new heater box.  This put the heater pipes right where head would be on a 351.
 
doesnt matter for the 302w the e-series and au's used the same lower firewall panel too.

Okay flow rockers are basically clevo type but in two stud sizes.
 
5/16 pedestal mount - no machining
7/16 stud mount - needs machining
 
The 5/16 this run the risk of pulling out at high rpm - but this is dependent on your cam size and valve spring pressure.  This is something ando gets very passionate about.  I’m surprised the mention of double springs hasn’t woken him up.
 
the 7/16ths are more common and easy to get but need the pedestal machines to take the stud mount.  They tend to be more stable but n high rpm scenarios, and then if you’re really serious in running a big cam you need pushrods and guide plates.  But this is a serious engine something that sacrifices some crossy strengths ( low down torque) and drive ability for those moments when you can hold a throttle fat and go waaa waaa waaa.
 
i have a set of the 5/16 adjustables in my xf.  It’s efi, they do not fit under the efi cover without an aussiespeed spacer.  It’s also not standard efi - eb inlet el ecu with quarter horse.
 
i could have gone v8 had less hassles but I kinda like how friendly the crossy is.  It’s not a fast combo but it’s a great streeter with a Bit of attitude which I’ve learnt a lot from.
 
Other guys like rob and ando will have their own bit to add to this but hopefully this helps in the interim
 
Dave 

This is true too

Okay flow rockers are basically clevo type but in two stud sizes.
 
5/16 pedestal mount - no machining
7/16 stud mount - needs machining
 
The 5/16 this run the risk of pulling out at high rpm - but this is dependent on your cam size and valve spring pressure.  This is something ando gets very passionate about.  I’m surprised the mention of double springs hasn’t woken him up.
 
the 7/16ths are more common and easy to get but need the pedestal machines to take the stud mount.  They tend to be more stable but n high rpm scenarios, and then if you’re really serious in running a big cam you need pushrods and guide plates.  But this is a serious engine something that sacrifices some crossy strengths ( low down torque) and drive ability for those moments when you can hold a throttle fat and go waaa waaa waaa.
 
i have a set of the 5/16 adjustables in my xf.  It’s efi, they do not fit under the efi cover without an aussiespeed spacer.  It’s also not standard efi - eb inlet el ecu with quarter horse.
 
i could have gone v8 had less hassles but I kinda like how friendly the crossy is.  It’s not a fast combo but it’s a great streeter with a Bit of attitude which I’ve learnt a lot from.
 
Other guys like rob and ando will have their own bit to add to this but hopefully this helps in the interim
 
Dave