ESPSIX

I’m running this exact setup on the missus’s ESP, goes hard, pretty got fuel economy, ( not that it’s something I care about ), and when you get those secondaries open it sings a sweet tune.

As above, and BA and BF are the same.

My neighbor buys cars at auction for wrecking and fixing, when he was getting XD and E’s, he used to let me take what I wanted for free, so I stocked up, glad I did, I’ve got 2 to maintain.
doing the same now with B series.
 

Its funny, when I see people here and on FB asking for parts like these, my first thought is, “ha, didn’t realise they were that hard to come by, I’ve got half a dozen sitting in the shed”, but things like lip spoilers, I got when you could get them for $10, now, I just feel glad I’m not trying to build a car now days.

You call it hoarding, I call it, having spares of parts that you can’t get anymore.
 
 

Yes you will, but as chestnut said, will be the larger, so better for less cavitation.

I’ve done it, on the car, no issues in years, but went slow.
 
but why don’t you just buy the non viscous fan water pump?

I’ve done it, on the car, no issues in years, but went slow.
 
but why don’t you just buy the non viscous fan water pump?

All good advice gents, I'll add to that with how to check the various joints and pivots for wear.

First you have to establish that there is in fact play in the system, and that you're not just feeling sidewall flex from the old high profile tyres. Open the window and shake the steering left to right while watching the rim on the driver's side. You can see that the rim will move but the tyre tread lags behind. This will contribute to a sloppy feel. I like to go as high in pressure as the tyres will handle (often written on the load rating on the tyre). This will increase road feel.

Start by putting the car on ramps or blocks. The wheels should be at ride height.

It's really a 2-person job, so get your Mrs or one of your kids to wiggle the steering left and right to take up the slack in the system. They'll need to be prepared to do this for as long as it takes to check all the joints that affect steering slop.

All joints will need to be checked using this wiggle method.

Start inspecting at the box. Watch the input from the rag joint and feel the output from the Pitman Arm. If there is a delay in movement as the coupling turns left to right, there is play in the box. Adjust as described above. Also check the mounting bolts for tightness.

Pitman Arm joint wear will show as movement in the arm before the drag link moves. Detect by placing fingers on both components and feel for excessive movement. Replace Pitman Arm if needed.

Inner and outer tie rod joints will be the same, detect play by using same method as above. Outer rod ends often wear more than inners due to their proximity to debris and water thrown up by the wheel and the range of movement.

Bottom ball joint may also present as worn with side-to-side steering movement but it is better to lever back and forth with a large screwdriver to check. Wear in this joint will often show as vagueness while changing direction.

Top joint won't show any symptoms as it is always under load. The only truly correct way of detecting wear in this one is to take the load off the rest of the suspension while containing the load in the spring, either with a spring compressor or a block between the chassis and the top arm. This unloads the top joint so you can check it at correct ride height (where it will wear the most). If doing the lower joints, you would replace the uppers as a matter of course.

Radius rod bushes can also contribute to sloppiness but only while on the move and detectable with movement in the back and forth direction. Wear in these bushes will give excessive squirm under brakes due to the loss of castor effect at the wheels, as well as vagueness in steering response.

Lastly, a simple one but often overlooked is wheel bearings. Jack up and check for play, adjust if needed. If the grease is really dirty, they'll likely need replacing.

Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

From memory ( I did it 10 years ago ) the original boot works, but I got rid of the rubber block thing on the gear stick, then bolted the top half of the stick to the wrong side of the bottom half so the top half lined up better in the console hole.
sorry, don’t know how else to explain it.
and don’t have pics.

They’re both AIT set ups.

They’re both AIT set ups.

I think you’ll find they are supposed to be blocked off, when you open up the holes the water will just find the path of least resistance.
the water is supposed to flow to the back of the block before it enters the head, where it then flows forward to the outlet ( thermostat) and in to the radiator for cooling .
by doing what you doing, the water will just flow through the block to the first opening to the head, before flowing back to the radiator for cooling, leaving the rear of the motor to run hot, causing the head casket to fail.

The T5 loves the transmax z, the shifts are much nicer!
 
im doing a full seal and gasket change on the single rail on the weekend cause it leaks from everywhere.

Correct, But whether any of those boxes are behind a 6, or a 8 makes no difference to the gear in the box, or the gear on the transducer.
eg: a single rail out of a V8 will bolt in, and plug up in a 6 cyl car and read correctly as long as the transducer gear is right for the diff ratio.
as did the 6 cyl T5 I put behind my missus’s 351, but had to use the XE transducer, which was a 6 cyl one.
 
OP didn’t say which box he is running now, but if it has a later than XE transducer that would make the speedo play up as XE and later have a different plus rate.

Check the bleed nipple is not blocked, pull it all the way out, and try pushing the peddle slowly, and see if any fluid comes out.
ive even had the Caliper blocked with crud.

I may have an adaptor from the plastic body to the teardrop body I'll have a look if your interested.

Sure, just make sure the flap inside the snorkel is in the cold air position.

It's not a vacuum switch, it's a vacuum delay valve.
black/brown=2 sec min, 5 sec max.
black/green=9 sec min, 20 sec max.
theyre common on all XD/E/F's, just get the right Color one, and going by the workshop manual, the black side goes to vacuum source.
although, non of these things are needed unless you are hooking up all the emission gear.
and the one your looking for just helps warm the motor up quicker, by getting it to suck hot air off the exhaust manifold.

Sure, just make sure the flap inside the snorkel is in the cold air position.

It's not a vacuum switch, it's a vacuum delay valve.
black/brown=2 sec min, 5 sec max.
black/green=9 sec min, 20 sec max.
theyre common on all XD/E/F's, just get the right Color one, and going by the workshop manual, the black side goes to vacuum source.
although, non of these things are needed unless you are hooking up all the emission gear.
and the one your looking for just helps warm the motor up quicker, by getting it to suck hot air off the exhaust manifold.

It's not a vacuum switch, it's a vacuum delay valve.
black/brown=2 sec min, 5 sec max.
black/green=9 sec min, 20 sec max.
theyre common on all XD/E/F's, just get the right Color one, and going by the workshop manual, the black side goes to vacuum source.
although, non of these things are needed unless you are hooking up all the emission gear.
and the one your looking for just helps warm the motor up quicker, by getting it to suck hot air off the exhaust manifold.

Early XE, later have small numbers and different plug, but mount the same.

Key doesn't unlock all doors, armrest switch does, but tired actuators and nearly broken wiring between door and car all pull volts, but not much else.
i haven't seen a XE with the relays in the door, maybe later ones had them, had a ZL that had them.
wouldnt surprise me if the alarm people disconnected your original actuators and fitted aftermarket ones to get the central locking working with the alarm.
 
 
im after a relay setup if anyone has one, or the wiring diagram to make one.

Key doesn't unlock all doors, armrest switch does, but tired actuators and nearly broken wiring between door and car all pull volts, but not much else.
i haven't seen a XE with the relays in the door, maybe later ones had them, had a ZL that had them.
wouldnt surprise me if the alarm people disconnected your original actuators and fitted aftermarket ones to get the central locking working with the alarm.
 
 
im after a relay setup if anyone has one, or the wiring diagram to make one.