ESPSIX

Only one I’ve heard that doesn’t sound like a wet fart is a standard turbo exhaust, fitted to a NA car, with the two pipes at the front merged into one to bolt up to the back of the cat. my son has a xforce on his XR6 that’s going in the bin as soon as my hoist is free.

I forgot the final piece of the “bogan” pack, the reverse cowl on the bonnet. there is only one wheel worse than Simmons, those black “drag style” wheels with the fake bead locks!

Don’t forget the 20 in Simmons to complete the Barra conversion.

As said, for ESP only, without them the mechanism rubs on the bottom of the seat, I took mine out and made half height ones (25 mm) so I don’t rub on the steering wheel getting in and out, and angled the ends at 45deg so they go a bit further forward so my short as missus can get the seat forward enough.

After making sure both my ESP’s original radios worked the way they should, I’ve never turned the on in the 16 odd years I’ve owned them. they both make the only music I care about while driving them.

You are probably are right, but I had one out of a xf that never liked going into first if the car was moving at all. I did my first conversion about 18 years ago into a ZL and my second only 12 years ago, so remembering things are a bit foggy.

XF T5 won’t be world class, no synchro into first, and shorter first gear than the later boxes. and not worth the effort with 2:77 diff, 3:23 would be minimum.

Looks like I can post pictures. hope it helps.

I just posted this up for a guy on FB, can’t post pictures here so that’s a problem.

I just posted this up for a guy on FB, can’t post pictures here so that’s a problem.

V8 T5 has the longer input shaft. 6cyl T5 is the one you need for any single rail or top loader bell housing. input bearing retainer needs to be turned down a smidge to fit in the back of the bell housing. I used a 3 speed V8 bell housing , redrilled top holes to bolt up the box and something similar for the two bottom holes. been in the car for ten years, seems to be holding up fine, but then I don’t do epic skids. and I have a couple of spares.

Before you bleed them, google, brake bleeding hack and watch the YouTube vid with the spray bottle pump. works awesome!!

Au shifter is about 30 mm further back.

Best to rebuild all brake components, you might find that when you do the callipers and go to bleed the brakes, you push the master cyl pistons into the gunk build up and brakes will still drag.

The reflector coating is vacuum metalising, not chrome.

Maybe it’s the turbo hanging of the side of mine warming it up quicker.

It’s something I learnt from my old man who is a “ older mechanic “. 1/8 hole in the main flange. and to answer the question from Mr Polson, I find it warms up a little quicker and more evenly.

I always snip off the jiggle pin and just have the hole, and make sure it’s at the top, helps bleed the air out, and allows constant water flow so you don’t get spikes and troughs in the temp.

I’m looking at fitting Roller Rockers to my missus’s 351. Yella Terra street terra, but would adjustable be better than non? looking at a possible cam change later on, if that makes a difference.

Different wattage globes can make them flash fast.

The battery side one can be done without removing the battery, but air box out on the other. got to take front bar off to get headlights out.

I’m running this exact setup on the missus’s ESP, goes hard, pretty got fuel economy, ( not that it’s something I care about ), and when you get those secondaries open it sings a sweet tune.

As above, and BA and BF are the same.

My neighbor buys cars at auction for wrecking and fixing, when he was getting XD and E’s, he used to let me take what I wanted for free, so I stocked up, glad I did, I’ve got 2 to maintain. doing the same now with B series.

Don’t leave you car where you can’t see it!