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You can get a standard style 50oz balancer easy for them. Sounds like you are doing what I did.
 
 
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gt40p


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Yes a 302w dizzy drops straight in.

From memory the gt40p heads had 4 lines.


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The P on gt40p heads stands for plug angle, I originally had gt40p heads on my AU spec 5.0 in my XD, dummy fitted hurricane 4-1 headers and with 90 degree (from memory) spark plug boots it all cleared.



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I got rid of my toploader for this reason. Notchey to shift and all round just a pain in the arse.
 
I went with a built C4 and B&M Shifter, makes driving the car a whole lot more pleasurable.

The P on gt40p heads stands for plug angle, I originally had gt40p heads on my AU spec 5.0 in my XD, dummy fitted hurricane 4-1 headers and with 90 degree (from memory) spark plug boots it all cleared.



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The P on gt40p heads stands for plug angle, I originally had gt40p heads on my AU spec 5.0 in my XD, dummy fitted hurricane 4-1 headers and with 90 degree (from memory) spark plug boots it all cleared.



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I haven’t found any differences yet, still putting the engine and transmission together! Ha ha But I’ll advise you when I get it all back in.

The Megasquirt Unit I Got was from Shiftkits Australia and the service and price was excellent, couldn’t recommend more highly!


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Finally the car is stripped down and going to the panel and painters my mate gave me a hand Be back in month or so. Anyone has any good parts or know where to get, Rubber sets,power window repairs,bush kits,xf efi engine loom not been butchered,badges. Just the essentials mainly so I can gather parts, I’m located in Melbourne. Cheers all


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There is a decent article by Hotrod Magazine (US) on this modification and it all looks fairly simple.




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I’ve got all the bits to do a Crossflow turbo build for my XF Ghia, time and enthusiasm are lacking...

However my goal has never been about max dyno numbers, more around how it goes and feels.

My build is exactly what all the above are giving advice on, fresh bottom end, MLS head gasket, small cam and valve springs. ECU is an EL with XG harness with a J3 chip.

It will toast the tyres all day long, probably make 300 and something HP...not bothered really.


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I can relate to some points you made there, perhaps to a lesser extent but valid all the same.

A stock, all-iron clevo with all the other heavy shit that goes with it does make for a lardy beast, especially with a dual system, FMX or toploaders and 9" but suspension can be tuned around that to a degree. It would easily add 150 kg to the car. Engine-for-engine, the Clevo outweighs the alloy Crossy by about 80Kg.

Running hot: mine is really not bad in that way, and my cooling system is nothing special. Alan Moffat said that his XY ran nice and cool even with that beer carton sucked into the front. I think the later smogged-up black motors with retarded everything had trouble in that area particularly with AC fitted. Low comp open chambers didn't help either. They can benefit by bumping up base timing by heaps. You can hear it in the exhaust. Much more clean and mellow. People also piss off the vac advance but that's not a smart move. That is your cruise efficiency gone in an instant.

Fuel consumption: sure there are many accounts of how badly these things drink (302 and 351) but remember this design is a de-tuned race engine, and this especially can be said of the 4V. Go shoving in a big stupid cam and the low-rpm efficiency goes out the window, more so than usual. These engines need to be built differently from your Chevs and Windsors. The closed chambers handle good comp, so you should take advantage of that. Using stock intake and an average carby, I'd get consistent 15s to the 100, occasionally dipping into the 14s. Not too bad for an old clunker. Crossys tend to get around the 12 mark, 11 on a trip, EFI maybe 10s, high 9s.

Crossys , being a long-stroke motor compared to the short-stroke clevo (especially 302), gives them great low-rpm torque, which is where you spend most of the time when you're not giving it some welly. The clevo doesn't really come into its prime until above 3000, which is also where it will start to drink.

All that said, Ford dumped them for a reason... they were just too hard to get day-to-day efficiency out of.h

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If your radiator is clean and not blocked then I wouldn’t spend more money on another radiator until I’d finished investigating the bypass and thermostat.


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If your radiator is clean and not blocked then I wouldn’t spend more money on another radiator until I’d finished investigating the bypass and thermostat.


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I have had serrious thoughts about using an e series computer and j3 chip.... it is probably a more sensible option than the blow through.


Also found photos from this setup off facebook from awhile back
...... from the sounds of it it went allright for what it is. I think i'll keep looking down the blow through root for now.





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Sounds like pretty good combo to me and basically my plan for my XF Ghia but with EFI and EL ecu...

I have a Quickfuel 450 d/p that I did have on my 302w but I couldn’t get it 100%, it would be pig rich or lean as on my AFR (best thing I’ve ever purchased) gauge. Changed all sort of bits and gave up.

Brought a new Quickfuel 650 d/p Brawler without choke horn and it was nearly perfect out of the box, changed jets down on front and rear by two numbers and it’s near perfect.
I thought a 650 would be too big for the little 302w.

The Quickfuel blow through 650s have a good rep.


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I’ve got all the bits to do a Crossflow turbo build for my XF Ghia, time and enthusiasm are lacking...

However my goal has never been about max dyno numbers, more around how it goes and feels.

My build is exactly what all the above are giving advice on, fresh bottom end, MLS head gasket, small cam and valve springs. ECU is an EL with XG harness with a J3 chip.

It will toast the tyres all day long, probably make 300 and something HP...not bothered really.


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My post should have said they probably wouldn’t go well on a burnout pad.


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I tried 2 new ones and old one off my old motor


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similar setup to what im running, i used global west lower and upper, viking coil overs, rrs castor arms handles like a dream 

Yeah it's called "where else ya gonna go?" pricing policy.

It's basically an Opel Ascona or Senator rack design adapted to the falcon mounts. They used this because I believe the factory Opel rack itself was designed to fit an earlier steering box chassis.

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There isn’t much to the RRS steering kit to be honest, not sure where the expense comes from.

Maybe CRS will do a kit one day.




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I will look at taking the box out over the next few weeks to repair the leak at the front.

I’ll have a good look inside and see what’s what.


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If it's still a bit stiff going 2-3, that's similar to the T5 problem I have. Since going 4-3 isn't as bad, it could be a shift interlock issue. It's a bit hard to check this with the cover off as it relies on it being on to stay in the correct position (held by the slot). Maybe you could check this for burrs or wear and tear that could be causing it to baulk when moving across the gates.
 
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Went out for a real good drive to get some heat in the oil in the box, as yesterday it was a short drive.
 
Went through town, lots of stop start driving and 1-2 is mint, exactly how I want it.
 
2-3 is better than before, still a bit stiff but goes into gear with the grinding.
 
3-4 is 100% better, just slips in.
 
4-3 is way better and so on.
 
Still not like a 5 spd Japanese box but hell it never will be.
 
Thanks for all the advice and help with the single rail.
 
 
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