slydog

All the cams I have are stamped or engraved on the rear of the cam not the front face.But you could work it out with a degree wheel,dial gauge and some time.Or you could ring a Cam company like Camtech,Clive,Crow or who ever and ask them for a suggestion.Only once you have a feel of what certain cam specs do to a engine and how they perform/work in the real world do you get to decide what spec's you get.Remember they do it for a living so advice from a cam grinder is the best bet.
 
Just tell them all your engine specs so far and what you want form the car and they will do the rest.
 
My roller cam was designed with help from a US based Outlaw engine builder on a cam design program which took alot of work and within 2mins of talking to Clive at Clive cams he had a set of figures that was only a few th off what took us weeks to work out.Yes they know there stuff...but we did use the basic custom profile for my xflow with Clives touch.

might be stamped on the end of the cam... might not... if its just the stock efi cam just about anything is an upgrade.

that honestly depends on the person and application, some people are fine with having a lumpy idle daily, some want just a hint of a cammy idle, some want 6000rpm, some want 4000rpm.... while i agree there is cams more suited to daily driving, it really is an individual choice.
ive seen pretty awesome results from some of wades cams and theyre pretty soft on valve train, camtech has awesome performance but tend to be a bit harsher on valvetrain but with better economy... theres always trade offs....
 
let us know what you're looking for dude and we can help from there.... if you're going to put a cam in, get another head and get some port work done to it, breathing is how it all works, so even a quick clean up can make a noticeable difference wouldn't even cost you $500 for the port tidy up, a surface, and 5 angle valve job, then you just gotta fill the head up with the goodies!
depending where you live we can all reccomend people. i use Martini heads (bundoora vic), Rob has been in the business for that long he has forgotten more then most people know. according to him, 12 years is an apprenticeship (i think hes been doing this since the mid 60s) but each to their own.

OK your not gunna listen for what ever reason but I'll tell you anyway,actually pretend Im xrglenn for a while if it helps.
 
You can fit and use all this shit before you even do the engine so,buy a MSD Street fire Ignition for $179,get a TFI dizzy,and a good coil or a basic Bosch unit.That ignition system will now power any future combo you come up with.Ask Clint how well his TFI MSD combo worked out for him amongst others.Simple basic and the BEST thing you could do for any single combo you come up with as it will allow you make HP not limit HP like a electronic dizzy will.Why do I say this...because I have done it and have the results from all bar a crank trigger ignition and for the money I have to ask why not do it as all you will do is miss out on FREE HP.
 
Use no less than a 2.5 exhaust and get the collectors modified to enhance flow/scavenging.This again is totally free hp like the ignition and can be done to any engine in any state of tune at any time.
 
Buy a Romac or Powerbond balancer,I would and do use a custom Powerbond unit but as Glenn likes Romac use one of them if you wish.Again you can use this component on any engine at all at any time and it is FREE HP.
 
Next up buy and fit a DC electric water pump as it's FREE HP.I hope your getting the idea here by now.
 
After this is all fitted tested and made to work how you like start buying engine parts every week as needed.Buy 125lb dual springs,new retainers,locks to suit your stock valve gear will do for now.Any bigger and your into single groove territory.A gasket set to suit the intended rebuild,a camshaft and lifter kit after you consult with Camtech,sorry Crow in your case and do speak to them via the ph not just purchase something cheap off eBay FFS.I would advise you to ring Camtech and speak to Jim Tamborello aswell as they WILL help you.A set of bolt on roller rockers even 2nd hand of eBay if your that concerend about spending money on em will help.Scorpion do not make bolt adjustable's as I have a set on my ute engine and they need the head machined and a set of studs fitted that are just not needed here ATM.That said you don't need adjustable units here either,just roller rockers will free up HP aswell.
 
Then purchase your inlet,I cannot suggest a 4 barrel enough but if you want more throttle response and LESS HP and torque go for a 2 barrel manifold and carb combo.
 
If you buy it all as you go it will spread the $$$ out and allow you to spend a little more where it is needed.A car is a combination of parts so it will need a convertor and a set of gears to suit aswell so purchase with this in mind the whole time.
 
Thats me...

OK Rob. Those aircraft tugs can do 8 second 1/4's on street tyres and rev to 9 grand.

Ever wondered what they use to tow stuff around in at airports.?
 

 

 

Awesome advice right there bro...I'd suggest the 3.45's too.

i'd swap out your diff for a set of 3.23s if you are still driving it every day, 3.45s are awesome but they sit at about 2200rpm on the hwy @100k's with 225/55/16 tyres so its up to you if you dont mind having the slightly higher rpm go the 3.45s (you will find changing the diff gears actually helps with fuel economy)
 
as far as other upgrades... help it breathe before you do anything else, first thing i would do is a full exhaust from extractors to tip
from there look into the intake restrictions, what's a simple way to help air flow? could make a CAI for it, will help with the under bonnet and intake temps (this is why gt's had shakers and bonnet vents) then i would look into simple ignition upgrades, Mcfly94 is right about the dizzy mod i have seen it work before and it does seem to make a difference.
 
once you have all the basics sorted then you look at throwing a cam and intake manifold and carby on it, i think most people are using the aussie speed intakes on carby motors? i think they have the best average flow between the ports from memory. cam choice is up to you, and how you want it to perform etc

You have to remember that this site is rather new and most of our info is still on the other site.It's not as easy as putting solid lifters on any camshaft either you have to get a solid lifter cam to suit your needs/wants.Plus the fact solid cams are dearer and the best/correct lifters are as dear as the cam in most cases.The valve train needs adjustable roller rockers and if stud mount machine work and guide plates for the pushrods.There is a very very very important run in procedure with special oil and light springs,then swap to the needed springs so add more money and time to it all.
 
Camshaft $300,Comp EDM Lifters $260,adjustable roller rockers bolt on $500,springs to suit your new camshaft as they need more seat pressure $200ish,new retainers and locks $150ish and thats if you don't want a big cam as a bigger cam needs single groove valves and new retainers and locks to suit $500ish right there atleast.Plus you still have top fit he new cam,check piston to valve clearance,then oils ans paste $75,run in cam and swap springs-shop price would be $300 I'd suggest.  
 
So basically there go solid cams for you as you don't want to spend money on it and thats just off the top of my head.You are like most other people who want a really fast cranky x-flow but want it for as cheap as possible when it just doesn't happen that way and 1 read of my thread should prove that point.Yes I tried to do it as cheap as possible and killed 4 cams and 3 sets of cast pistons hence my new roller cam,forged piston combo I should have done 5 years ago learnt the hard way.
 
Don't be offended as I was were you were a few years back but have moved on and found they can be a seriously disturbing engine if built right and they can embarrass some big $$$ cars easily but they as all other engines require the "correct package". 

Old clevo's bend pushrods a bit so I would have put a new one in that hole and it would have been fine.Done a few of em...

i know that, but my car is almost starting exactly the same as before, just from upgrading my earths? probably start better then before when I actually tune the thing and upgrade the starter cable

When you set your rear suspension up you want the pinion to start to point down as the diff travels towards the body, this counteracts the natural tendency of the pinion to try and "climb" the crownwheel and plants the rear tires to the pavement (hopes this makes sense as I'm very drunk right now)

oh gay!
 
sick mate!, (sick subwoofer), but I thought you liked making things for people

Selfish bastard!!! We have become a custom to wen crazy designs we all win lol

LOL you cracker Fly, I'm not making them for everyone. Making them for myself because i'm a selfish bastard.
 
But don't worry, you can anticipate a how to thread with material list at the end of the evolution. with a good machine shop they will be piss easy to make yourself.

You have to remember that this site is rather new and most of our info is still on the other site.It's not as easy as putting solid lifters on any camshaft either you have to get a solid lifter cam to suit your needs/wants.Plus the fact solid cams are dearer and the best/correct lifters are as dear as the cam in most cases.The valve train needs adjustable roller rockers and if stud mount machine work and guide plates for the pushrods.There is a very very very important run in procedure with special oil and light springs,then swap to the needed springs so add more money and time to it all.
 
Camshaft $300,Comp EDM Lifters $260,adjustable roller rockers bolt on $500,springs to suit your new camshaft as they need more seat pressure $200ish,new retainers and locks $150ish and thats if you don't want a big cam as a bigger cam needs single groove valves and new retainers and locks to suit $500ish right there atleast.Plus you still have top fit he new cam,check piston to valve clearance,then oils ans paste $75,run in cam and swap springs-shop price would be $300 I'd suggest.  
 
So basically there go solid cams for you as you don't want to spend money on it and thats just off the top of my head.You are like most other people who want a really fast cranky x-flow but want it for as cheap as possible when it just doesn't happen that way and 1 read of my thread should prove that point.Yes I tried to do it as cheap as possible and killed 4 cams and 3 sets of cast pistons hence my new roller cam,forged piston combo I should have done 5 years ago learnt the hard way.
 
Don't be offended as I was were you were a few years back but have moved on and found they can be a seriously disturbing engine if built right and they can embarrass some big $$$ cars easily but they as all other engines require the "correct package". 

You have to remember that this site is rather new and most of our info is still on the other site.It's not as easy as putting solid lifters on any camshaft either you have to get a solid lifter cam to suit your needs/wants.Plus the fact solid cams are dearer and the best/correct lifters are as dear as the cam in most cases.The valve train needs adjustable roller rockers and if stud mount machine work and guide plates for the pushrods.There is a very very very important run in procedure with special oil and light springs,then swap to the needed springs so add more money and time to it all.
 
Camshaft $300,Comp EDM Lifters $260,adjustable roller rockers bolt on $500,springs to suit your new camshaft as they need more seat pressure $200ish,new retainers and locks $150ish and thats if you don't want a big cam as a bigger cam needs single groove valves and new retainers and locks to suit $500ish right there atleast.Plus you still have top fit he new cam,check piston to valve clearance,then oils ans paste $75,run in cam and swap springs-shop price would be $300 I'd suggest.  
 
So basically there go solid cams for you as you don't want to spend money on it and thats just off the top of my head.You are like most other people who want a really fast cranky x-flow but want it for as cheap as possible when it just doesn't happen that way and 1 read of my thread should prove that point.Yes I tried to do it as cheap as possible and killed 4 cams and 3 sets of cast pistons hence my new roller cam,forged piston combo I should have done 5 years ago learnt the hard way.
 
Don't be offended as I was were you were a few years back but have moved on and found they can be a seriously disturbing engine if built right and they can embarrass some big $$$ cars easily but they as all other engines require the "correct package". 

I also got a custom head built, that I haven't used on anything yet -
 
Started with a brand new casting, had it ported and port matched to the standard XG log type manifold, stainless steel XR6 valves, crow 115lb dual springs, crow retainers and collets.
Plus a Clive Cams cam, made from a new billet purchased from Crow.
I got a crow vernier gear for the cam.
Also got a head stud kit to use rather than bolts, and an ACL race series gasket kit.
 
Any good?
 

 

 

 

 
 

Standard usually make between 100-110 kw you could see 140-160 rwkw with a good tune and a bbm

You have to remember that this site is rather new and most of our info is still on the other site.It's not as easy as putting solid lifters on any camshaft either you have to get a solid lifter cam to suit your needs/wants.Plus the fact solid cams are dearer and the best/correct lifters are as dear as the cam in most cases.The valve train needs adjustable roller rockers and if stud mount machine work and guide plates for the pushrods.There is a very very very important run in procedure with special oil and light springs,then swap to the needed springs so add more money and time to it all.
 
Camshaft $300,Comp EDM Lifters $260,adjustable roller rockers bolt on $500,springs to suit your new camshaft as they need more seat pressure $200ish,new retainers and locks $150ish and thats if you don't want a big cam as a bigger cam needs single groove valves and new retainers and locks to suit $500ish right there atleast.Plus you still have top fit he new cam,check piston to valve clearance,then oils ans paste $75,run in cam and swap springs-shop price would be $300 I'd suggest.  
 
So basically there go solid cams for you as you don't want to spend money on it and thats just off the top of my head.You are like most other people who want a really fast cranky x-flow but want it for as cheap as possible when it just doesn't happen that way and 1 read of my thread should prove that point.Yes I tried to do it as cheap as possible and killed 4 cams and 3 sets of cast pistons hence my new roller cam,forged piston combo I should have done 5 years ago learnt the hard way.
 
Don't be offended as I was were you were a few years back but have moved on and found they can be a seriously disturbing engine if built right and they can embarrass some big $$$ cars easily but they as all other engines require the "correct package". 

I just pull no. 1 plug and stick my finger/thumb over the plug hole and turn it until you can feel the compression stoke. Pure laziness on my behalf - easier to undo one plug then 8 rocker cover bolts.

^^^thats not laziness Ando, that's experience, I also just pull the plug but for someone that is just getting to know how an engine works I personally think a visual reference is better

He has a new number but I don't have yours so I can't send it anyway...LOL

I know of 1 that hits 7200RPM...and it's not mine.Wazzy pull's his to 7200 but stops there due to his cast pistons from memory but his crank trigger worked wonder's he claims.Funny but I'd like to see which parts seem to work better avoiding/limiting spark scatter such as blocks cranks,cams,cam types and ignitions systems.
 
There's a XE from WA owned by Ryan Humphies that use to have 250 power and he would turn that to 7500rpm and bang gears thru a Top Loader but I don't know what his ignition was.Use to just stick it full tilt on the limiter for minutes...YIKES!