slydog

You need to measure the crank for size,buy bearings to suit then fit and measure then fit crank and measure.
Or you could measure crank and buy bearings to suit and just deal with it co I know 95% of people building engines would do this. I'm not one of em. Most don't check end float just pull the crank forward and back and thats it LOL.
  

the good old.. I'll just re ring it.. rebuilt.. next minute $4000.. that's what mine ended up like

Rule no 1 never throw any part out until you have the replacement and know it fits

Corrected...3.3 was used in XF. 3.3 EST timing comp was the one to have over the rest as it had a better curve. 

i'd be shaping that gasket to the extractor flange.. maybe clamping it to a sheet of wood and cutting the excess with an angle grinder(or binning it for one that fits)

You test the coil by a resistance test via multi-meter but...as I found out it can bench test just fine and still fail in use.
The Ohm rating for the test's is on the MSD page or join the forums and ask as I did.
For street use a alloy bodied coil is recommended as it suits long periods of use the poly unit is for short bursts only. Yes all this info is on the MSD site and the forums.
 

And again...the Ross pistons used on the 200 rod are garbage. They will sink in the centre with any real hp timing heat or rpm.
Seen it many many times. If using Spool use the CP piston as its a very good slug.

You test the coil by a resistance test via multi-meter but...as I found out it can bench test just fine and still fail in use.
The Ohm rating for the test's is on the MSD page or join the forums and ask as I did.
For street use a alloy bodied coil is recommended as it suits long periods of use the poly unit is for short bursts only. Yes all this info is on the MSD site and the forums.
 

That's harsh and Vizard leaves a lot un-answered, he also relies on smarter people that came before him and often forgets to acknowledge them. But I also get what you mean with the backyard made up physics, myths and magic men.
There are tonnes of very smart, very handy self taught engine builders out there that could have saved a lot of time and money by reading.

Every extractor gasket set I get/use is 2 piece and front 3 and rear 3 are opposite.

Take the pipes off and line the gasket up and take a photo Front 3 face backward's or towards the rear rear 3 face forwards or towards front of car...from memory.

You still need to port em...Some people use epoxies to seal up,remake or build up areas looking for gains. Simply putting goo in there and smoothing it will not improve anything.
Most leave a textured finish to the cyl heads and manifolds to help attomisation.     
 

You still need to port em...Some people use epoxies to seal up,remake or build up areas looking for gains. Simply putting goo in there and smoothing it will not improve anything.
Most leave a textured finish to the cyl heads and manifolds to help attomisation.     
 

Agreed ,, 
have not noted anyone mentioning the smooth paste in any threads 
 

You still need to port em...Some people use epoxies to seal up,remake or build up areas looking for gains. Simply putting goo in there and smoothing it will not improve anything.
Most leave a textured finish to the cyl heads and manifolds to help attomisation.     
 

CFM per port x number of cylinders equals a theoretical maximum power the engine can make using complex efficiency formulas. Doesnt take into account what happens once the inlet valve closes (ie combustion efficiency, etc).

Rule of thumb on a V8 is you double the flow number to get HP. 6-cyl multiply by 1.5

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Deff 2" open space makes hp. Seen it so many times. 
Carby faces primaries to shock tower secondaries to engine and staggered jetting for consistency in response.

https://imgur.com/a/i0yV4

I have a mate who makes about 300kw in a daily xg .. using those rods . Much Cheeper than trying to fit arp to e series rods ..

What's the specs of a dev5 ??




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If you can find a worthwhile picture I would like to see it here. If you haven't got one, you haven't got one.

Deff 2" open space makes hp. Seen it so many times. 
Carby faces primaries to shock tower secondaries to engine and staggered jetting for consistency in response.

Harmonics flog em out at RPM pretty well.
Limits,plenty of cheap valve spring xflows with turbos hanging off the side (still slower then good NAT ASP 1's BTW) that you could ask maybe ? Most NAT ASP guys build em properly cos xflows break all the same shit in the same manner till you do all the have too's on em LOL. 
Other benefits are easier to assemble and disassemble. Heck I main studs,head studs,pan studs,manifold studs,carb studs,exhaust studs and if I could I'd run block studs for the gear box but you don't have enough room to mount it all while in the car.Stud's are da bom to work with.  

Mine are 9.5 long 3/8th 120th wall Trend units.

Doe's it really matter...yes it doe's is the short answer.
If you use a filter top air cleaner and base no ellement it will clear with a 2" spacer and give the car best chance of using the carb combo.   

Doe's it really matter...yes it doe's is the short answer.
If you use a filter top air cleaner and base no ellement it will clear with a 2" spacer and give the car best chance of using the carb combo.