Crustydog

thanks 
that's perfect
I should be able to work it out now
cheers

No sure if the picture will load from my phone.

Shove ball bearings down all the emissions hoses...... jobs done, looks stock. 

All this worrying about the traffic authorities is not worth it , i have found that all they check is the new engine number  to the engineers report its the guys writing the blue slip or roadworthy to get sweet with.

I like the idea of the ball bearings.  How are you letting blow-by escape without an obvious vent visible?

i think the mechanic i dealt with was only looking for electronic ignition, pollution spec carb(would have been happy with a quadrajet off a commodore V8) but i had a thermoquad still, and egr fitted.. 
as soon as it was registered a holley and egr block happened anyway, so it makes me wonder what the difference was at the tailpipe from that? 
 

They never had cats so you wont need one. To be legal and "correct" you would need to just run all the emissions gear as factory. EGR, charcoal canister plumbed up etc.

all mine were totally ileagil no cats ,holleys,no emissions,they were not even interested in any of that,i guess i got lucky,they were only interested in the shiny polished weiand rocker covers.

It's basically the same in SA.  If it came with a V8 option, it's just an engine swap. Dan @slo247 has just done the paperwork, they haven't even seen his car. As i said, that's here in Adelaide.  There's a couple of guys here with Clevo XF's, just need to hit the firewall with a hammer. LOL..!

I have done several in QLD its xf's they dont like.

It’s to do with adr27c 1983 revised cause 1982 follow version adr27b.Emissions from what I gather. I have heard and read that in NSW require engineers but yet Victoria don’t. Even in EPA Victoria states that a v8 can be put into any XE cause it was a option. Best bet would be call a engineer or RMS NSW. To me it makes no sense when all states are meant to follow federal rules on vehicles.


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just stick a long screwdriver or wire down no 1 cyl and wind it over by hand  until it stops and hovers a bit that will be rough tdc,make sure your on the compression stroke,like the boys said it dont matter where the pointer is as long as its on no 1 lead,then adjust your dizzy a little advanced and it should fire up,then properly time it with the light,it sounds like your on the exhaust stroke if its backfiring and spitting out the carby.

My 11/74 XB GS Panelvan has a 1977 F100 block in it.....
oh how I yern for the original matching numbers block... 

Ok it's a bit hard to explain but during assembly, the engine number takes on whatever chassis it goes into, regardless of where the engine was made. In your case, it's a truck chassis assembled here from US-made parts. If it was cast in 77, it's a local block. Around that time, we were starting to export the blocks back to the US for NASCAR use, so they were well and truly used up over there.

Another example: My Cortina engine number started with "CG58" as that's what a Cortina chassis came with, despite the engine being a locally made 6.

C = Great Britain
G = Geelong assembly
58 = Cortina 6-cyl GL sedan

Any clevo will bolt straight into any vehicle that had a Clevo as an option. In my case, an XB ute engine ended up being rebuilt for someone's F100 which was never installed but sold to me to go into my XE wagon. See what I mean? A lot can happen in 40-odd years so it's no surprise that your block ended up in a Falcon.



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C is 60's
D is a 70's casting
E is 80's
F is 90's,
so that tells you if the year is 60's, 70's etc

You can reco those non-detatchable guns, did it a couple times on my old welder. Replace the liner with a generic off the shelf replacement and make sure all contacts and joins are good/sealed (gas line runs through the trigger on those)
My very well used unimig 180.

The problematic relay is the blue one in upper center of the board.

If it sticks I get a dull click out of the other relay, no gas flow and no wire feed. It seems to be the one that makes the wire actually feed out and turns on the voltage to it.

Some welders are basically live all the time, older basic models without the voltage reduction circuit. A problem with yours maybe related to this or it could be that the voltage side is functional but the feed isn't. End up with a live wire that doesn't move. I had something like this when my unimig cracked it the first time. Fixed under warranty, guy stopped short of actually agreeing with me that I just wore it out lol.

Yeah if it's out of warranty then rip it open and give it a good clean. Blow it all down with the compressor and get the dust out. I do this regularly as you'd be amazed how much gets sucked through it with the fan. Mine has developed a sticky relay again. This time it's out of warranty so I've cut a trapdoor so I can smack it with a screwdriver when it gets stuck

That sounds like you have a contact problem in the amp switch, is pull it apart to check and clean it. It's not like you have anything to lose!

I tossed up between a boss weld and my unimig 180, both similar units with transformer power rather than inverters. Only issue I've had is wearing out the relay but that can be replaced for about five bucks. It's now an older model but I saw it for sale in total tools, under 500 from memory.

Bunnings is now selling boss weld units too. I'd be tempted by the mig/tig unit.

https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/291120357705 my dad and I bought one of these for light stuff and it's a great unit. I've welded up truck tailgate hinges in 10mm mild steel with it and they have held up fine for the last 3 years . We use it with gas and it has a lot of grunt for a small unit. The handpiece has a euro connector on it so it can be replaced easily if it gets damaged. A lot of cheaper small welders have a fixed handpiece and you almost have to destroy the welder to replace it.

2.5inch press bent off a standard manifold and one muffler.

Udidca302
As bear and 2redovers said,
I cut out and replaced wher I could, carefully welded up the pin holes this is a very complex area a lot of valleys and different shapes. I I ground and sanded back, coated in POR15 but could also use KBS and welded back together. I swear by Por15 and KBS rust paints and after using bit here used it on the rest of reapirs, in cabin and boot. If you have a look at the second photo you can see the shiney round circles. They are were the spot welds were. Very time consuming job and and if a decent car wasn't so hard to find this car would have been binned. Would I do it again. Yes! In fact if I was putting any money into another I would pull the top off coat it and it will last for ever
Dale

thought i'd bump this thread for the newer members..

i have to convert all these figures to litre per 100km..
5km per litre = 20litres per 100, i used to get that on LPG with my 351 and C4 with 2.92.. 
6.5km per litre is about 15 litres per 100 which seems pretty normal from what i have been reading

my 351 c4 2.77 diff get around 5km per litre on long trips on highway about 6.5km per litre