XFute-1JZsoarer

I've always used a small flat screw driver and some gentle persuasion. A smack on the edge to create a dimple and then use that to tap it around. Once you've gone about 1/2 a turn it will be finger tight

Started sorting through the looms today, worked out what is what, and roughly where it belongs. Couple of wires appear to have been cut, and I've found what looks to be a 8 pin plug that's been smashed into 4 pins, so there's a little bit of work ahead...
 
Front section

 
Rear section

 
Better front pic

Hi Jay, if you would like it tweaked you'd be looking at a Stage 2. If the EB ECU is a compatible pre-BBM ECU then yes the chip would also work in it.
 
Cheers,
Jason

Thanks for that nos2.
Well I'll do my best to keep ya informed gerg, I'll be pulling the crossflow out and dropping in the 4 litre in about a week, maybe 2.
Just tryin to find someone that will mod plate it before I begin stripping everything out for the swap.
Engine, box and diff are almost ready to go...

Yep and yep

Sweet! I think there's a lot more to be told of this topic

I can find out tomorrow bud, mines in storage at the mo, but I'll be goin out to do some work tomorrow, so I can measure it up then if you don't get a response tonight.

I've heard varying opinions as to whether the XF T5 was world class or non-world class. Easy to tell by the lay shaft bearing on the front of the case. Flat surface = NWC, large central "dimple"= WC. I found out mine is the latter so I'm cheering, will fit it behind my 302 next clutch replacement.

Only 3.3 XE got that five speed.
And I thought T5 was only in very late XF (then the commercials post 87).

Thanks Mr Polson, you been running it with that oil for long, no issues with it I'm guessing?
 
It's a fine line between useful and useless info bud, I found it useful

There's a port on the ecu that can be found at the opposite end to the large connector  - the one plugs into the vehicle's harness. You can see it on the PCB (on the left hand side) of the first image you posted under post #19. The J3 chip plugs in there and overrides the programming native to the ECU module. It piggy backs onto the ECU module. You need to clean this port well prior to plugging in the J3 chip. Otherwise, poor electrical contact between the ECU module and the J3 chip may result and you end up with problems.
 
Check :
 
http://www.tiperformance.com.au/
 
for fitting details and other good info.

You can have it for $40. I'm in the outer eastern suburbs of Melbourne.
 
Make sure you use the XG dash assy. because it contains a lot of the necessary wiring (and the cursed smartlock module). Save for the instruments, is visibly very similar to the XF one. It's actually quite easy to remove and install the whole thing - I did it by myself but it's easier with a friend. As a side note...smartlock can be a PITA...I bypassed it with a module ($125) and haven't had a problem since.
 
Tip....none of the wiring harness is visible from the engine bay along the firewall as it is in E-series....it's all contained within the dash assembly inside the car. It has two "arms" if you like. One extends from the passenger side of the firewall from the ECU to supply the left headlight, ignition system etc. The other from the driver's side of the firewall to the battery, right headlight, alternator etc. A small portion of the harness travels under the radiator support panel and joins the left side with the right side. The loom holes in the firewall (and the harness grommets that seal them off) are the same for an XF with EST as they are for an XG. I think the one on the ECU side is smaller in earlier XFs without EST owing to a less bulky wiring harness - which may be a bitch if your XF is an older one....

Still the undisputed king of useless information

The 3-speed was a Borgie unit that predates the single rail. It was a low-cost base model box that had no synchro on 1st, and like the single rail, had a top cover that the internals were loaded into. Technically you could call them top loaders but the one everyone refers to when using that terminology is the Ford unit. It was called that because when it was first introduced it was unique in having the top removable versus most of the other manufacturers using side covers. Having this top loader design makes it stronger because the sides of the case can be made solid with whatever ribbing/gussetting they need. This is what made the Ford Top Loader a legendary gearbox for strength.

the cd I received has the copy of complete aftermarket manual.  from what mine shows similar to Gregory's printed manual  at 4 dollars its worth a look  cheers demmo

Unfortunately I can't as I bought the XG ute already stripped, just wanna make sure I've got all the wiring sorted before I put it in, as I would like to lengthen sections to help with hiding it all.

The EA-ED factory manual works fine....use the EB2 (smartlock) wiring diagram. I've got the factory manual for the XG - it's referred to as a "supplement" and isn't as helpful as you might expect. It has some wiring diagrams...but not the full suite - hence being referred to as a "supplement"  I found I used the EA-ED manual more useful when installing the XG harnesses into my XF. You're welcome to buy my XG manual if you like....

If the XC one is a definite fit, I'd take that one (provided you can do the work yourself). Gotta ask though, is it a 3-speed or a top loader bell housing? They are different boxes. If it works, you could sell it on later and get more than your money back on it.

I've only had the Nulon in for about a month. Have seen belhousings for $50 at swap meets before.

There has been plenty of discussion in a thread on this forum about diff oil to use but I can't remember where to find it. Lots of recommendations to use an additive as well. I'm just using Nulon 85/140 oil in mine without additive and it seems fine so far.

This is on an ef sedan diff but utes are in much the same spot. Shame it's been painted over mate. I guess you will have to do the old rotation test to find the ratio.

Ah thats a bit of a bummer. It looks like they just screwed up some plastic as an afterthought! not the neatest finish...

Sorry mate, dunno about QLD but in NSW you'd need an engineer's for sure.

just a suggestion if you can't find a manual  I purchased one on cd for $4 off egay which works well
 
cheers demmo