XFute-1JZsoarer

Nope, they not.
 
Years ago before i started doing the 4 litre swap into my XD i was on another forum and the people there
posted some info about this prob. I been wondering "would this glitch surface actually" and the only solution
was to cut a recess in the front support panel. 
Now ill go look for that info and ill come back here. 

This! I even did that with my bonnet support. Make that shit look factory..

Thanks Steve, great info as always mate!
I actually referred back to your thread lastnight and noticed your engine uses a different belt/pulley setup to mine, that allows the alternator to sit more vertically than the EA-ED and XG motors do.
I checked out the link you put up, but the way they cut that rail was a bit too full on for my liking.
Want to try keep it as neat and factory looking as possible...
Maybe I can heat up the steel with my little pen torch where it hits the rail and try shape that section enough to clear it.
It's got to be the neatest solution next to swapping the belt setup completely to the later one (if that's even possible).
Another solution might be to find a slightly shorter belt so I can get tension on the belt before it gets close to the rail.
It's fustrating because I'm getting fairly close to firing it up now that I understand the wiring better and the motor and T5 box are all bolted up properly...
 
HBWC, I had XF mounts in previously, they are a major no go with the drop down manifolds, and actually sit lower than the XG mounts.
Passenger side mount sits much higher to lean the manifold away from the tower, and drivers side is also a mm or 2 higher than the XF mounts.
 
Outback Jack, I'm already using complete XG mounts, top and bottom, and this is the issue I now face.
Mounts are not going to change anything at this point, the engine is in the best possible position, other than the alternator problem, it sits exactly as it should.
The difference between my XF and a XG is just the XG front rail, it looks like Ford completely redesigned it for the 4 litre engines.
It strangely appears that the later EF-EL engines are actually more suitable to do this conversion than the motor and associated parts out of the XG that followed the XF.
Other than the XG swaybar, fuel tank and (possibly) wiring looms, the rest of the swap should be done using the later EF-EL motors with the XF engine mounts in place.
Thanks for the suggestions anyway guys.
Always appreciated.
Jay.

Ok, found the info.
I really relied alot on this way back then and as i did mine i found some probs listed i just never come across
only because i used the EF engine. 
The XG had a diffrent front rail, from XD/XE/XF hence your alternator sitting on it.
So check this thread out, it should help you out.
 
http://www.xfalcon.com/forums/index.php?/topic/887-how-to-fit-a-40l-to-xd-xf/

Cheaper alternative to all the above, shorter fan belt!
That's all I did to stop the alternator fan hitting the cross member in Heather.
Lower tie bar is different and has more clearance in the XG.
 

Thanks Steve, great info as always mate!
I actually referred back to your thread lastnight and noticed your engine uses a different belt/pulley setup to mine, that allows the alternator to sit more vertically than the EA-ED and XG motors do.
I checked out the link you put up, but the way they cut that rail was a bit too full on for my liking.
Want to try keep it as neat and factory looking as possible...
Maybe I can heat up the steel with my little pen torch where it hits the rail and try shape that section enough to clear it.
It's got to be the neatest solution next to swapping the belt setup completely to the later one (if that's even possible).
Another solution might be to find a slightly shorter belt so I can get tension on the belt before it gets close to the rail.
It's fustrating because I'm getting fairly close to firing it up now that I understand the wiring better and the motor and T5 box are all bolted up properly...
 
HBWC, I had XF mounts in previously, they are a major no go with the drop down manifolds, and actually sit lower than the XG mounts.
Passenger side mount sits much higher to lean the manifold away from the tower, and drivers side is also a mm or 2 higher than the XF mounts.
 
Outback Jack, I'm already using complete XG mounts, top and bottom, and this is the issue I now face.
Mounts are not going to change anything at this point, the engine is in the best possible position, other than the alternator problem, it sits exactly as it should.
The difference between my XF and a XG is just the XG front rail, it looks like Ford completely redesigned it for the 4 litre engines.
It strangely appears that the later EF-EL engines are actually more suitable to do this conversion than the motor and associated parts out of the XG that followed the XF.
Other than the XG swaybar, fuel tank and (possibly) wiring looms, the rest of the swap should be done using the later EF-EL motors with the XF engine mounts in place.
Thanks for the suggestions anyway guys.
Always appreciated.
Jay.

Legendary Gav, this is what makes Ozfalcon the place to be, awesome diagrams to make our lives easier

The J3 chip and the aftermarket smartlock bypass modules perform an equivalent job....with the J3s being heaps more flexible cos you can custom tune them, whereas the smarlock bypass does a single job. With mine, I used an EL manual ECU to perform all the functions I needed...but I needed a bypass module to eliminate an impossible to pin down gremlin. Now I know you've got the XG dash....you'll do okay. Without it I believe you'd be royally screwed - I didn't want to say as much before! Any questions....I can probably help as my OHC/XG conversion into an XF is reasonably fresh...and I can pop outside to have a look at anything that's not quite clear for you......

Thanks heaps Gav, awesome help mate!
Yeah I'm swapping the entire XG pretty much, from radiator to the taillights and everything in between.
I've got the XG heater box now installed, along with the passenger side engine harness. I spent yesterday doing rust repairs to the drivers side floor and the drivers side vent that caused it.
So I can now put the drivers side harness in.
I've got the XG dash ready to go in from there, it's still got all the smartlock and dash harness installed in it.
I got a new J3 chip to disable the smartlock so I don't need to worry about any of it not working properly (1 less headache for now).
From looking at the firewall grommet on the loom itself, I can sort of trace where the relay block, battery terminals, alternator wiring and the HEGO plug goes. But the headlight plugs threw me for a spin as I was looking at it being similar to the original XF loom, expecting the little side indicator bulbs being with the headlight plugs like on the XF, but I didn't realize that they are actually on the guard behind the front wheels instead of being on the bumper, so I was a little confused till I looked at couple of XG pics.
I'm now wondering if I should swap the XF body harness over and just try and use the fuel tank part of the loom seperately, or just swap the entire XG one in as well...
But thanks to you, I have a much better understanding as to how it all goes in.
I'm gonna go down to the wreckers soon and take some pics of its wiring to see how and where it all clips into the shell.
I think that with the info you have given me, along with some pictures, I'll have it all under control.
Your help is greatly appreciated mate, thanks very much for taking the time to help.
I'll keep you posted on how I go with it.
Cheers mate.
Jay.

easy setup for 250 & 4Ls
Garrett GT/GTX3582 .82 rear housing
 
3" minimum dump and exhaust (prefer 3.5")
 
decent front mount, and a tubular manifold, log style ones become restrictive above 13psi
 
oil & water lines are easy to run, piping is up to you and how you want it to be piped, no holes vs holes.
 
that setup is capable of making in excess of 300rwkw and spooling from 2500rpm. so driveable its not funny.

This might get you started:
 

 

 

 

 
Are you installing the entire dash assembly? A lot of the harness is integral with the dash assembly. This fact results in none of the wiring harness being visible on the engine side of the bulkhead - unlike XFs or E-series cars. When I did mine...I installed the entire XG dash assy...makes life ship-loads easier! The ECU side of the harness (passenger side can be fed from the engine bay into the cabin through a hole in the bulkhead. With EST equipped XFs...the hole is bigger and you can feed the ECU connector through it. On earlier vehicles it is quite a bit smaller and life will become harder for you. On the drivers side, the engine bay harness feeds through another hole in the bulkhead where a number of connectors mesh with the dash assy loom. You really need the dash wiring in place. Easier, as I mentioned earlier if you've got the XG dash assy - fits straight into XFs with no particular issues - it's general format is common with the XF. The XG loom passes the passenger side of the engine where it services engine sensors, injectors (ie. the engine harness), aircon, LH headlight/indicators. Elements of it pass under the radiator support panel where it joins the driver's side of the loom. The drivers side services the alternator, RH headlight, relay block amongst other things.

Yeah, they are pretty sweet.
But the prices I've been seeing them at is a little too rich for my liking, it's money I'd rather spend on the engine and driveline for now.
Maybe once it's all sorted though...

Yeah, BA XR seats are awesome. Best chairs FoMoCo have made in years.

I seriously doubt you will ever ever get pinged for fitting buckets where there was a bench if using factory parts.Mine was is a 88 model and I have fitted XF buckets and been pulled over HEAPS in it and never once questioned about them.That said mine has the multi pattern floor pan witch meant no holes needed to be drilled anywhere to fit the buckets.
 
Yes the XG style of seat (bucket or bench) is better then the XF and if going for a bucket I'd choose those over a XF bucket as the XF bucket is quite poo infact.With the AU seats out of my XLS about to go into my XF ute or better still If I find any I'll fit some BA-BF XR buckets mmmmmmmmmm
 
Just food for thought...    

Happy to help!
 
I did look at pulling the hump off to show you the hole in floor too, but to get the hump out I have to take the seat out, don't have time for that right now!

Lamps On light in Ghia/Fairlane clusters never work, because the Ghia/Lane dash has the Lamps On light in the system test panel.
 
At least that's what I've put it down to.

It does sound like an internal problem, hope it's nothing major, it is handy to have that light working though, it's so easy to knock the highs on and not notice till irrate drivers start flashing you eh.
I reckon you'll work it out, as it looks like you've got things pretty well in hand so far.

Cheers mate, I always appreciate your input, as I know it's coming from personal experience, and let's face it, you haven't steered me wrong, while plenty of others have (thankfully no-one from this particular forum though).
That's why OzFalcon is my "go to" site for any solid info or advice.
Anyway, the suns out and it's nice and warm compared to the last few days, so I'm gonna make the most of it.
I'll have some fresh pics and a update on my build thread hopefully today
Oh, and I can't wait to kick that motor over too, I'll try post up a video when I finally get there.
Thanks again mate.
Jay.

Thanks heaps Polson, your pics and advice have been a huge help as always mate
Cheers

Reasonable amount of room. Dunno how you'd go if you shortened it much though.
 

 

Id say they are the same shape but because the XG was designed with the 4 litre and the XF wasn't they are going to be different.
Plugs, ecu, all the wiring etc.
Id swap the lot over. 
Put the XG heater box in there.
just a few size 10 nuts on the fire wall and the XF heater box is ready to remove.
Put the XG one back in, then the rest of the XG dash, wiring harness and you should be on the home straight.
Really lookin  forward to you "turning key" on this one.
 
Oh, and do what slo247 suggests, remove the heater core and check it for rust. 
Its only a few more screws, some sticky glue between the lid and the body and its out.
Flush some water through it with the garden hose and check for leaks.
Its a good chance to remove all the leaves and bird nests from inside it to.
You dont want it catching fire once its back in the car.

Yeah i compared my XG stuff to an XF I had pulled apart years ago when i was doing the dash in goldie and i thought they were identicle.
Just didn't want to say it in that post incase i was wrong and i lead you down the garden path. 

Thanks Steve, I ended up pulling the XF box out and side by side, I couldn't pick a difference with wiring and such, though the fan motor seems to slightly smaller.
I ended deciding to use the XG one because of the one real difference, the AC pipes.
The XF doesn't appear to have ever had AC in it, I thought maybe some on just pulled the AC compressor off the crossflow, turns out it never had one.
I will go over the XG one before I install it, but I have a little bit of work to do before I get to putting it in.
Hopefully the heater core is still alright, the rest seems to be in good condition. Shame though, cause the XF one appears to be in pretty good nick.
Thanks again for the advice mate.

That's exactly the same as mine mate, thanks for the pic, reassures that it is the EA floor.
I suspected it was when I put the EA crossmember in last week.
Thanks again mate.

If it bolts here like this, then its EA style.
 
You can go bench and T5, its close between the seat and shifter, and the seat has to be nearly all the way back to allow room.
 
Late XF/XG cloth benches are much better than the vinyl ones IMO!!