Outback Jack

awesome thanks. 
 
well in that case, im quite excited that this has hopefully fixed the problem...
 
ill keep you all posted 

Well i don't bloody believe it, I think I have found the issue. 
 
In diagnostics mode I kept getting error code 21, which is ECT out of range. So tonight I disconnected the ECT plug, and bridged the pins in the plug with a jump wire, and the car fired up and ran straight away, and ran smooth. throttle was plenty responsive, etc. It obviously ran extremely rich still because the ECU had no idea what temp the engine was at. 
 
I have ordered a new ECT sensor which ill have tomorrow morning and hopefully have the car running good tomorrow. 
 
This sensor failing over time, might be the reason I have never really gotten the ISC valve working with the EL computer on my conversion. It may also explain why more recently ive had an issue with the EL computer making the engine run super rich, have no power and not being able to idle, when it had been running for about 20-30 minutes. possibly because the failing sensor would start giving a false reading at a certain temperature making the EL ECU freak out. then once it was passed that temp range, come good again...
 
Are EL and XF ECT sensors different? as in different resistance, therefore the computers looking for different resistance to make an accurate reading? Maybe the EL ECU is what killed my sensor if it is in fact looking for a different resistance? 
 
I will post here if the car is running properly again with the new sensor tomorrow.  

Ok small update. 
 
had the car running again today, still like a pig, i decided to unplug the AFM/vane meter to see what happened. for a moment it idled up and ran smoother then cracked the sads and died. even after i plugged it back in it wouldnt recover. 
 
I finally had a crack at running diagnostics on the car, and continually getting error code 21, which is engine coolant temperature. (ECT) 
 
The car refuses to start with this plugged in or not, so is it possible this is the issue? the sensor and/or wiring is in a bad way? 

according to my ford workshop manual, it could cause it to not start, but really? 
 
And if so, why would it start fine (but run crap) with EL computer, and not XF computer? 
 
Why with the EL computer is the engine not under vacuum, but XF computer it is? 
 
Im tearing my hair out, and honestly after owning this car for 14 years (after my dad owned it 16 years) this makes me really sad that the poor old girl is completely immobile  

Yeah I have been looking at schematics all afternoon. 
 
but there may still be some discrepancies. I know about the changes, and my brain is hurting after looking at schematics.  

After making sure both my ESP’s original radios worked the way they should, I’ve never turned the on in the 16 odd years I’ve owned them.
they both make the only music I care about while driving them.😏

Post edited and one removed. Carry on...

I have a wide ratio, XF-EA T5 in mine behind a 302 and it is indeed a world class. It also has synchro on 1st (all T5s, WC or non-WC have it actually).

The non-WC has a few clues as to its identity, the main one being the layshaft bearing on the front face of the box just being a plain roller type (with bronze thrust washers inside) identified externally by what looks like a welch plug turned inside out.

The WC box has a tapered bearing here with a cast steel cap that forms the bearing cup for the race. From outside, it looks like the top of a small piston with a slight dish in it and the outer edge will be a machined finish.

Non-WC takes a light (non-EP) gear oil, and has bronze syncros.

WC takes red auto fluid and has fibre-lined steel syncros.

Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

Yeah it is. 
 
what. I did with that was i remote mounted an E series ISC valve. Put it back to stock XF now 

On the xf there is no vac line to air cleaner. There is one from TB to rocker cover, pre butterfly, there is the PCV, post butterfly, then ISC valve pipes pre and post butterfly. All are correct, because they are alp moulded hoses and can’t be put on incorrectly. 
 
Yeah i know what you mean, but ive gone back to XF ECU which doesn’t use an oxygen sensor. 

Pics

Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

Have you bought a booster yet?
I'm doing a booster delete on my lil car.
Maybe that sort of Master is like my old one, side and lower outlet for the fronts and one side one for the rears.
That and an adjustable length master cylinder rod kit ($120 Wilwood kit). Should pull up your car easy without all the vac hub bub to fail.
 
Sent from my motorola edge 20 pro using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

Car still a few months away from being driven so I thought before I do I need to find out whether I need this valve or not.
I've bought a new brake master cylinder, it's from Bosch Part No. P6258A so I don't know it's suitable  for 4 wheel discs or disc/drum only.
 
 

 
 
 

Is there a way to know if it's adjusted correctly or do you need to do a trial and error thing?

Agreed.  Done the conversion on the XB, from drum to disc brake 9", haven't changed a thing.  Brakes hard and straight. Heard many stories about rears locking up, etc, but haven't had it on both conversions I've done. Fully rebuilt calipers from an XC/ZH, and new discs. 

not the dipstick. 
maybe oil cap, it still locks down tight. 
 
I did go along and torque all the intake manifold bolts to make they were tight. 
 
im thinking maybe either the ISC valve is doing something funky, maybe solenoid is wigging out, or the intake plenum is leaking somewhere, which im sure id be able to hear. 
 
i swapped out the plenum when i did this conversion, because i had to add an IAT sensor and I didn’t want to drill my original. 
I stuffed up the first one and had to black it, so maybe the blacking plug has started leaking 

On the xf cant get the ISC valve backwards because the pipes are moulded 
 
yeah im thinking its a vacuum leak but don’t know where from 

any chance you've still got the IAC plumbed backwards? 
 
My EB XR6 back in the day a neighbour bumped a vac hose off somewhere and it bellowed so much black smoke i thought it was stuffed.. stuck hose on .. fixed. 
 

Ok, I'm not sure about this one but I'm assuming these were used in XB GT's with rear drums? Or rear discs as well?
I replaced my XB ute drum rear end with a B/W disc brake out of an XC. So will I need this Proportioning Valve or not?

Epic......

Nice roll master chain came and also this awesome powerbond balancer

Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

Big day today. 
The Escort is home at last  
 
Covered in dust
 

 
First time washing it since December 2020 *not me in the photo* 
 

 
all nice and clean at last. ready to go into its new home. 
 

 
this is how you clean the inside, right? 😬 its fine, there is no interior at the moment 
 

 
Engine bay looks so pretty 
 

 

 
In it's new home. the shed is a little squishy with the car running this way across the shed, but once i get some shelving into the shed and a bit more storage ill have space to move. 
 

Mark sent these through today. 
Bonnet and grill fitted and aligned.  
 

 
This makes me smile seeing it look a little more like a car again 
 
 

I just noticed the Bluetooth icon on your screen, I should’ve looked a little closer before asking.
 
Cheers Jack.

Hey Jack,
 
I like that little not normal falcon beast you got there!
 
Do the Atoto kits have Bluetooth? I’ve never heard of them, but they sound alright from what your saying, I’ll have to do my home work on them.
 
 

Gerg is right, Vizard is a head working legend.
When you get right into his head work you realize HOW smart he is.
He was into 2L pinto motors in the 70's.

It's not all about just grinding stuff out, any dill with a die grinder can go that... And muff it up.

It's about the approach angle of air and velocity at the back of the valve.
Sometimes metal or resin is added to the port to change the approach angle of the air.
Then you want to go further its valve relocation. That's how it's done properly.

Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk