Outback Jack

Got all 8 pistons in ,now move on

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Yeah it's just a stage 1 , the 400 will love it

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The gear from USA came very early,only a week,new cam n lifter kit Elgin,and pistons n rings 030 now I can take the block down and get the machine work done

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Mate, I would probably do that. Should be able to get an XF loom pretty easy.
Then all you got to fork out for is the msd ,leads and coil. Just rev limit it.
Trust me, it will save you a massive head ache of even getting the E series stuff to work. It was designed for fuel injection so will always be a shite with a carby...and you can get rid of the O2 sensor, put in a wideband O2 sensor and it will help you with your afrs when tuning the carb.
I do it by ear....but I'm Ol Skool.
 
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Msd ignition programmable with a timing curve put in. I have done it before for a Crossy, same shite, different shovel.
 
I did a 600 Holley on[mention=3271]ashXFute[/mention] back in the day for him. Wasn't too hard.
 
That will get it running.
You would of been better off keeping the xf dash
 
 
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Msd ignition programmable with a timing curve put in. I have done it before for a Crossy, same shite, different shovel.
 
I did a 600 Holley on[mention=3271]ashXFute[/mention] back in the day for him. Wasn't too hard.
 
That will get it running.
You would of been better off keeping the xf dash
 
 
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its a Hall Effect TFi distributor, I know with MSD its common to remove the module & then 12V+ve(ignition), signal wire to MSD, Earth/12V-ve,
& MSD Hall effect uses points pickup wire (White)

Check this nice 400 crank

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Nah,just saw this one for sale in usa

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New sump and oil pump came,I must have bought 10 of these sumps over the years and are really good price and quality

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Relax... They run four stage Bluetooth dampers, they're just not installed yet

Just a word of caution, XR-XE clevo extractors is a bit sketchy.....
 
XY slightly different to XD.
Manual steering.
FMX trans, etc, etc. 
 
You may have to 'modify' the extractor tubes. Pacemakers are notorious for not quite right fitment. Good pipes, Aussie made, but not direct fit. 

Here we go
 


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My extractors are Tri-Y, so have a bit more clearance than a set of full tuned. Even at that, space is tight and steering box swaps are a pain ( jack engine off its mounts, etc). Starter motor clearance isnt a huge issue for me, I just went with a later 6-Cyl Bosch type as they're cheaper than the old heavy direct drive and are an easy fit with a small body. You need to watch drag link and Pitman Arm clearance to the solenoid terminal as the solenoid now points down at near 6 o'clock. 
The mods are simple. Just drill out the 8mm bolt holes to 3/8” and remove about 10mm of the casting on the pinion snout support on the lower edge, to clear the ring gear. I had a thread on the whole DIY process with pics but can't remember what section it's buried in.
 
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How low is your idle? Try around 800-850. Might just not be spinning up enough, or air trapped.
Did you prime the pump up before start up?
That's where I would start, you got pressure it's just wandering

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Obligatory "video not loading" comment

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I'LL TAKE IT...!!
 

The Hydratrak isn't the same as the Borgwarner cone type LSD. The Hydratrak came about in the mid-90s in HSVs and the like, whereas the BW cone clutch LSD has been around since probably the 70s. The BW LSD is of similar design to the non-LSD diff in that the centre and spider gears run in the diff oil, it relies on side-thrust in the spider gears under load forcing the cones to bite into the sides of the diff centre. This locks both axles to the housing and drives them together.

The Hydratrak relies on the viscokinetic action of a type of silicone fluid in a sealed centre, being squeezed between chambers within the housing, whenever a speed difference occurs between the axles (ie loss if traction from one wheel). As this speed difference increases, the fluid thickens and the resistance increases accordingly, making the slipping wheel hydraulically lock itself to the one with traction. It's kind of like a hydraulic version of a Detroit locker. Subarus used a viscous LSD of a different design in their manual boxes for the centre diff.

You may be able to retrofit a hydra to a normal BW housing but not 100% sure, in any case a hydra in good condition is pretty hard to find these days. Brand new I think they are dear as poison.

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Outback utes had the hydratrak lsd mate. There’s not a lot of those around these days though
If you’re not concerned about if being a hydratrak then you could fit a standard Borg Warner lsd housing into it. I wheeled an xh xr6 lsd housing under my 92 xf ute for better ratio and to have lsd. It was a great upgrade

Yeah, did the same with my Fairmont. Kept every part in the shed, in case I wanted to put it back to stock

Looking good

I spent yesterday afternoon making all the engine bay brake lines
 
not bad for a first timer 
 
 
 

You'll be happy with a warmed over Clevo. Don't overthink it, just carb, cam, inlet manifold, ignition and extractors.
 
Don't rev her over 5 grand, last for years and enough torque to pull a house. If you want to go racing.......well, that's a WHOLE different Cleveland.

Looks like a very light tidy up, only taking off sharp edges around the bowl, short turn and guide. Still, an improvement on stock for sure.

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That hole is for the exhaust srossover that runs under a stock intake for manifold heating/egr valve, if you're using an aftermarket intake they will be blocked off