stockesp

Ive made good progress this week. Not much more to do now. 
 
sway bar with fresh subframe black paint. 


 
sway bar, new control arms and tie rods fitted. 
 

 
steering column dropped to repair the steering coupling 
 

 
steering coupling repaired, cleaned. looks nearly new  
 

 
interior all back together 
 

 
discs freshly machined up 
 

 
new springs  
 

 
bit of height difference. apparently only 1" lower when in the car...we'll see lol 
 

 
old vs new. just goes to show what some cleaning can do. all I've replaced on the "new" strut is the springs. the shock inserts are the same, all the rubbers (shock sleeves and bumpstops) tops and all are the same ones, just been thoroughly cleaned. 
 

 
passenger side back together, and thats where i had to leave it for today, as i have to go to work shortly. Turns out you can't put the struts back in with the sway bar installed, so i had to remove it from the car entirely again  
 

 
more to come tomorrow if all goes well, it will be on its wheels by tomorrow night. 

I used xf spindles, rotors and calipers on the woody. Fishop Falcons (John Ganeo - top bloke) sells a tapered insert to adapt the smaller tie rod end to the bigger one on the xf. By far the cheapest solution, BUT alas with all CHEAP solutions there is a down side.
 
Steering is not as nice and if you run 8" rims and low profile tyres the bump steer is not very nice. It's driveable and for a cruiser like my woody I accept it. If you want to turn like a Tarmac terror, don't go with this way.
 
If you can find some XP falcon disc brake stub axles (aka rocking horse poo) you can fit XT-XR (ZC-ZD) solid rotors straight onto those spindles. This gives you modern 5 stud PCD and decent brakes. I went this way for the delivery and I got a set of slotted and dimple drilled rotors and a nice soft set of pads. This method gives correct factory steering geometry and the car will steer, well as good as an early falcon can steer.
 
I can't comment as to the effectiveness of the XT system as I'm no where near getting the delivery done (too many projects) but if they were good enough to pull up a big heavy ZD, then they should be more than adequate for the Xp. Obviously if you are doing street sprints of lots of repeat heavy brake applications neither of the above 2 will be adequate.
 
If you after serious stopping then u need to look at some of the US mustang kits or RRS, Hoppers Stoppers kits. You really do get what u pay for and need to select the right horse for the course. Hope that helps.

Looks a bit short.....

This^^
 
Mate that is shit scary, with the column being so short if that thing sheers you'll just be a passenger in the the drivers seat. The default pins that are there in case the coupling fails don't even meet the base of the column.
Whoever did that deserves to have a fucking huge kick up the arse.

If your boosters are anywhere near dripping at idle, your floats are too high. I like to open the throttle to the end of the transfer just when the boosters start flowing, and watch what the fuel is doing. If it's coming out in blobs or drips, it's probably coming out too soon (float too high). I wind the float way down and listen for a stumble right at the point of transition (float too low) then wind it back up till the stumble's gone. You can do this with the secondaries on a vac carby if you disconnect the link rod from the primary and work the throttle by hand. The factory setting is merely a baseline to work from. Every engine is different in what it needs from the carby.

The shock absorber will probably bottom out now,
before the control arm hits the 'modified' bump stop.

We need a pic of the same thing, ^^^ with the weight of the car on the suspension.
(ie, with the car sitting on the ground as below)
 
See Valvebouncers pics up above.

+1 hammer & dolly. You can't just whack it from one side though. I like to get a decent thump-o-meter on the opposite side to where you're hitting so there's some inertia to hit against, otherwise the whole lot just bounces. If you must apply heat, don't go any more than a couple of hundred degrees otherwise you'll weaken the high strength metals.<br /><br /><br />Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I did plenum repairs to my xe. Thought I had a little repair on lhs only . Once that was repaired discovered it was worse on the RHS.
To repar Rhs I removed halp the top. If I was doing another car any small rust in this area I would remove the the whole top, big job but peace of mind.
 
Dale

Yeah Banno pretty much has it, torque is equal on both sides as resistance is equal (ie the tyre driving the road) but as soon as that drive or friction is lost, so is the motivating force on that wheel.
 
Think of it like two kids of equal weight balancing on a see-saw. The sum of the downward forces is equal to the opposing net force on the pivot. As soon as one kid decides to jump off, the opposing force is no longer supported by the beam.
 
Now think of the two kids as the wheels and the pivot as the planetary spider gears. Whilever there is traction at both wheels (regardless of speed), the force is always equal to them.

Provided the electric pump has an external relief, I would run it over a mechanical pump - all day every day. Why? Because a mechanical pump is a constant drag load on the camshaft as it runs off the fuel pump eccentric. It's method of operation also induces harmonics into the engine, something I try my hardest to eliminate, especially in a crossflow.
 
I have only recently swung around to this way of thinking and this has occurred for a couple of reasons.
 
1. Electric pump tech has come along way and most top line pumps now feature an external relief. What does this mean? It means a significant reduction in pump noise and extended pump life. Why? Because when there is no demand for fuel the excess goes out of the pump (thru the ext. relief) back to tank, instead of being relieved internally. When it is relieved internally it super heats and aerates the fuel. That is bad.
 
2. mechanical fuel pump induced harmonics.
 
3. Reduced load on the camshaft. Yes the fuel pump takes amps to drive, you don't get something for nothing, and there is more load on the alternator, but it's the lesser of to evils.
 
4. I've found a way to make even the cheapest pump relieve externally. The set up the Wagoon is talking about above is my cure.
 
Put simply we reg fuel to the carb at 6.5psi, but the pump is capable of pushing 14psi and wants to do that. When there is no demand the fuel pressure raises until such time as the pump reaches its internal relief setting (14psi) then the unused fuel goes around and around inside the pump.
When we fit the hydraulic check valve (1/2 bar or 7.5psi) between the outboard side of the pump and the regulator, it senses when the fuel pressure goes above the reg setting and returns the excess fuel to tank. Basically eliminating the chance of fuel ever going over the fuel pumps internal relief. In doing that we improve fuel quality and reduce pump noise.
I've used this system on streeters, drag cars, burnout cars and meth speedway cars without issue. Even used cheap shit eBay fuel pumps on methanol with this set up and got 2 years and counting out if the pumps. Take the load off them and they last a damn site longer.
 
So short answer, electric pump with external relief for the win.

The engine fuse blowing is usually the fuel pump and/or fuel pump wiring shorted,
 
Often, the wiring will melt and short out, where it runs above the tail pipe behind the rear bumper. (stupid design)
Is it dual fuel?
 
Which fuel is it running on?
The Fuel Pump is ground side switched with the relay from memory - ie, it will still short out, even with the relay unplugged.
 
I'd be checking the Fuel Pump and it's wiring first.
 
 
 
The engine fuse also powers (indirectly),
 
the Aircon compressor, via the a/c pressure switch/ magnetic clutch.
BBM sensor,
Evap Canister solenoid,
Injectors,
ISC,
TFI/Coil pack,
and some of the ecu including KAM.

Try this additive :-D

looks much better now !

Meanwhile someone's house is getting knocked over and (by the cops) zero fucks are given.

Absolutely none, but there are plenty of reasons why you should:
 
* The hotter the engine, the more efficient it is (to a point, then knocking and seizing are issues). This is because heat loss to the cylinder when cold is greater than when hot. Heat is what causes expansion thus the more expansion (bang) the more torque.
 
* A hot engine atomises the fuel better, requiring less enrichment for the same power. Conversely, a cold engine needs to run rich because only a percentage of the fuel gets burnt properly. The rest goes out the exhaust.
 
* A cold engine has fuel condensing on the cylinder walls, diluting with the film of oil on them and ends up in the sump. An engine that runs cold a lot will have oil that smells like petrol. The oil thins out over time and loses its film strength.
 
* The Water pump needs a restriction to pump against (ie thermostat). Not having one causes a low pressure area in the middle of the impeller and a cavitation bubble forms, reducing the pump's efficiency and causing damage to the blades over time.
 
* A cold engine has poor emissions performance, and some functions may be disabled (ie can purge, egr). Not that anyone cares, but needs mention.
 
* A cold engine has looser clearances, so will use more oil.
 
* Cold oil has a high viscosity, and has poor splash lube capability (ie bores and camshaft)
 
So in summary, yes you should run a thermostat.

I'm out of this whole thread.  Not interested in a pissing competition on whose engine is better and how long it has lasted and what is better and what's not.
 
I've clearly stated the facts and what works and why from my own knowledge bank that, coincidentally is hard fought knowledge that actually makes me money.
 
Do what you want.  Run what you want.  I couldn't give a rats arse.  Not one person has been able to tell me one positive about running a high volume pump.
 
At the end of the day - do what you want.  Make an informed decision.  Those who actually build and race Ford engines in endurance motor sports know what works and what doesn't.

Hi all,
I've done this quite a few times by gently heating the adjustment knob with a heat gun and pulling straight off. Install is just pushing straight back on, hope that helps.