Searley

So a 178 rwkw would feel like  "Whoopeee"
 

A really good one probably around 120-130ish rwkw depending on the dyno

Hi Outback Jack. Yes I'll go for the Nason for $50 instead of MACE for $110. They have a washer but that should'nt make much difference. That article you put out on the 3 x different types of head gaskets was Great to read. I know the car parts shops are always willing to palm off a cheaper gasket and bolts that they wanna get Rid of that might not be Suitable. 

Gooday to Everybody and I hope you are all Travelling Pretty Well. Now I'm about to Buy some Head Bolts for a sohc 4.0 and I see on E-Bay the prices can Vary from $40 to $110 before you go to ARP  Hi-Dollar stuff. Are they all the same? The MACE Engineering look better and come with a washer. And maybe they are made in Australia. I did read in a Ford magazine about a Jim Mock sohc rebuild and he said that you can use 2nd hand head bolts as long as they are in good condition!  I don't wanna stuff this up on Experiments.I bought a Enduro Tech head gasket kit that does'nt come with the Bolts Again any Advice or Opinions or Experience is Appreciated and I won't be Offended. Have a Great Nite.

OK, just thought I would put this up for people who were looking at replacing the head gasket on their 4L SOHC motor.
 
There are a few different head gaskets available for the 4L.
From left to right are....
(Left) Endurotec Composite head gasket with silicon embossed seals.
(Centre) Permaseal Composite head gasket.
(Right) Permaseal AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket with Viton coating.

 
The 4L SOHC motor from EA-EL come from the factory with a Composite style head gasket.

This has steel fire rings around the bore holes and a steel inner layer sandwiched between 2 composite layers.
 
This can also have silicon sealing rings to help with sealing water jackets , oil galleys etc as with this Endurotec Composite head gasket....

 
The 4L SOHC motor in the AU came from the factory with a Multi Layer Steel (MLS) style head gasket.
This is an aftermarket Permaseal AU style MLS head gasket.....

This is usually 3-5 layers of stainless steel with embossing around all the ports and a rubber/viton layer to help with sealing.
 
Now it is common practice for people to replace the older style factory Composite head gaskets on EA-EL with the AU style Multi Layer Steel (MLS) head gaskets.
This will increase compression on the EA-EL motors as the gasket is thinner and can increase head gasket life and strength for boosted applications.
 
Now if you are rebuilding an engine and have had the head and block faces machined, it's a no brainer.
Switch to the AU style Multi Layer Steel head gasket.
Just make sure you mention to the machinists you want the faces of the head and block to suit, as the MLS head gaskets require a much smoother surface on both faces for correct sealing.
Usually 15Ra-50Ra (up to MAX of 70Ra)
Blocking the surfaces may not even be enough to get a smooth enough surface.
 
Also try to avoid any sealants, install dry.
The coating on the MLS needs to be able to seal by itself and expand and contract with the steel it is bonded to.
 
But what happens if your not able to machine both surfaces?
 
What happens if the head is machined but not the block?
 
What if you have fire ring marks or corrosion marks/low spots?
 
Chances are you won't be able to get the required finish to run an MLS head gasket and get it to seal properly without machining the head and block to suit.
MLS gaskets are less forgiving of surface imperfections.
 
 
This is a block that needed a head gasket replacing. It has been block sanded already, but as you can see, there are still imperfections in the surface.


These include Fire ring marks and Corrosion marks.

The block is super smooth but has imperfections.
 
But not to fear.....
 
While machining of the block and head would be the ideal thing to do for a perfect finish, it's not always possible.
 
I suggest at LEAST the head should be machined.......

And the block then block sanded with fine wet and dry, a lubricant and alternating between 45 degrees one way, then 45 degrees the opposite way with a Large sanding block.


 
Composite head gaskets are a lot more forgiving than Multi Layered Steel head gaskets when it comes to surface finish.
They can better seal imperfections in the mating surfaces.
They require 30Ra-110Ra, which is a much rougher and wider range.
 
Composite head gaskets with silicon sealing rings can give help with dodgy water port sealing.
This doesn't mean you can just slap them in. Good surface preparation is still required.
 
Composite head gaskets can also hold boost up to about 20psi, so don't worry too much about using them on most N/A applications.
 
Better to have a head gasket that seals properly and works than a fancy one that can't because of imperfect mating surfaces.
 
This is what happens to an MLS head gasket if installed on too rough a finish.....



That was a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket, less than 500km old.
Installed by a 'mechanic'.
 
Also if installing a Permaseal MLS-R head gasket to an EA-EL motor, check the rivet on the rear of the gasket doesn't foul and get stuck between the head and block.....



The permaseal MLS-R has rather large rivets, the one on the rear will foul. The permaseal MLS has smaller rivets but I would still check the clearance.
Just a couple of things to keep in mind if deciding to go the MLS route.
 
 I could install another MLS head gasket but chances are it would fail again due to surface roughness.
 
My Composite head gasket lasted 300,000km from the factory before it failed, so if installed properly it will last.
I will leave the MLS until everything is machined properly to suit it on the next rebuild......
 
 
Happy Head Gasketing!
 
Outback Jack.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I've been asked for soluble oil before and had no luck finding a supplier.

But most Repcos keep this on the shelf.




I personally run Penrite corrosion inhibitor in my XFs with no issues.

You would be pushing to find any soluble oil, these days.!!   It's fine for use in any machinery, but, I don't know about the boiling point. The advantage of Coolant, is it's available anywhere, high boiling point, corrosion inhibitor built in, etc, etc.  As with all things, regular maintenance, (changing the coolant every year or two, flushing the system ...) is very important. 

I know that if you put concentrate in without first diluting, the pump can leak because glycol is too "slippery" or has a much lower surface tension than water, and can weep past the ceramic seal.

Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

We used that stuff in Mercedes and MAN back at the gov't buses, granted they're mostly iron but I don't recall having any corrosion issues with any of the alloy or zinc components.

Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

i have no idea but..  i'd speak to a radiator joint, head reco mob or someone like @Mr Polson who may be able to ask suppliers if coolants/antifreeze have a lubricant of sorts in them?(they are slippery and drag racing strips HATE it when it's on the track, doesn't dry out) 
 
a mate of mine "fixed" a grey fergie tractor water pump with GREASE, can't remember what he did though (whether he pumped it in the seal leaky hole or removed it and packed it somehow?) the difference is, that might have been an old crusty thing with a leather seal in it?
 

Hello Dex, I've got a XH Longreach with the Hydratrak and also a RTV with the Dash operated Locking Diff. As gerg said they are 2 different types. As you most probably know you only need to Operate the Diff Lock when you're about to attempt to drive thru a Boggy Mushy patch of road Never Ever on the Bitumen or hard rock road Always ackowledge the GREEN light ON and Verify that its OFF when you want it OFF. Save a Big headache and Heartache and Walletache. 

Never asked before ,,
but what other hard wear and parts are used to activate the hydra track in the rtv ba/bf series utes ,?
ie the push button on the dash to make the hydra track work ,? 

I'LL TAKE IT...!!
 

Thank-You Professor gerg. I'd have to give you or anyone 11 out of 10 for that descriptive answer. There must be heaps of Hydra-Traks lying around somewhere. Cheers.

Or buy a trickle charger. Most people have them on their 'when the weather is fine' cars. A good one will decrease the battery and charge it in a normal cycle as if it was on the road in normal conditions

I'd just leave it in there, wouldn't worry about it every 3-4 days, more like 2 weeks and run it for 15-20 min each time (to get the engine warm and to charge it up).

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Ok, here's the skinny on head gaskets.
 
Normal composite head gaskets on EA-ED and XG.
40nm + 90 degrees.
 
AU MLS head gasket on EA-ED and XG 30nm+ 120 degrees.
 
Now on MLS-R head gaskets there are little copper rivets all along the head gasket to keep all the layers together.
 
Now it's normally OK, the rivets are positioned so they don't foul on the mating surfaces. But like it says in the MLS-R file- Due to differences in head castings etc, it may be necessary to drill out the rivets that foul on the mating surfaces and it's ok to remove them.
 
This is what the rivet looks like in a position with no fouling...

 
Now when we put the head on the motor, I bought up to the "mechanic", and I use that term very loosely, that I thought the rivet at the rear of the head looked like it was going to foul.
'Nope, she'll be right' bullshit.
 
Well as you can see in my last post, there is a leak of some kind at the rear of the head.
On closer inspection, this is what I found on the drivers side rear.....

As you can see the MLS-R head gasket is not sitting flat.

 
Let's have a closer look.....


 
Now I'm pretty pissed off, as you can see, it's not sealing properly and there's coolant and oil.
All for the sake of one rivet, and 5 minutes to remove it.
Now I will have to pull the whole head off just to remedy this one pissy problem I paid to have done properly.
 
And I hadn't named names before, but I bloody will now.
After working 2 weeks for free in their workshop being the coffee making, give a hand on everything workshop bitch, while waiting for the machine shop to get my head back,whilst more than paying my way while staying up there for two weeks, getting gouged on my bill by my so called mate and his father, even after taking care of them.
Spending 5K and getting treated like shit when I question the bill and some labour/ part prices.
 
And.... for having to fix all their fark ups on my ute after paying good money to get it done properly by people I thought I could trust and would look after me.
 
Lews Auto Repairs in Bunbury WA.
 
Wankers!
 
The only reason other customers don't know they are getting gouged is they don't know what stuff costs and get bullshitted.
My old man was a mechanic and I have worked on cars all my life, so I know what shit costs.
$450 for an MLS-R head gasket that t.i. performance sell retail for $300. Bullshit.
 
2 weeks work from me there means nothing and worth nothing.
Still paid over a grand in labour, most of which I did myself.
A quoted $1800 head and cam job ends up over 3.5K with me supplying most of the labour and all the gaskets.
 
And they know I'm a pensioner, didn't stop them at all......
 
Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 

Fucking poor form when they rip off anyone mate, let alone a pensioner. When you don’t have a clue, go to Lew’s

Thanks Mate,That clarifys things a bit.For some reason every time I was reading about a Hotted 250 X-Flow I'd see "And its got Forged 200 Conrods which made me think that 200s were made with Special Conrods but they were'nt.Whew Thank God I did'nt dismantle all those 200 cu/in motors from U-Pull-It just for the Conrods!

Hello Mr. hendrixhc, How did you go with Mr. Total Towing? Did he let you have the Longreach for a Carton of Beer?

Oh Yeah forgot to add that the mob 0408824939 that was on the sign is also the same number advertized for Total Towing in the Yellow Pages so it must be him.That other next door chap said he sometimes turns up @ the site on weekends.

Hello Mr. hendrixhc,I found that White Ford Longreach Ute.Its in a Type of scrap cars and cranes & industrial & agriculture machinery type of cemetry.The wheels are still on it.There was a sign @ the end of the fence with 'total towing'  mob 0408824939 written on a piece of plywood with white finger paint mob number written  twice with total towing.The chap next door who runs Pt.Elliot Mechanical (aka the old Pt.Elliot Wreckers) said there's a Chap who comes in now and then and thinks he might have a car yard sales somewhere in Adelaide(the big smoke),He himself was showing interest in the cranes he's got there coz they still work.He said he thinks the Longreach was the owners personal @ one time.I looked up Total Towing Adelaide and found it in the Yellow pages @ 11 York St.Wingfield.So anyway I have'nt Phoned him and thats all I could find out.Hope this Helps.If you need a hand with getting stuff off I would help out.I have tools and a gas propane hose and torch for heat and jack stands. My trolley jacks are only smaller car types not big truck types.I would'nt mind a Squiz @ it either.Maybe its got a Nice dash mat or a better bench seat than mine,I could use some decent headlights etc. Its been there for  least 10 years maybe 15.Ok my  mob is 0487831133 but not after 4:00 pm  Thanks Searley

Ok I'll Go "Seek and You Will Find"!

Ok Mate I'll go and Enquire for you.Do you just want the Diff or the whole car or diff and other parts? It might be interesting!

Nah Sorry No Sale But I know where there is another Longreach been sitting in a Scrap yard @ @Port Elliot for years.I'm sure it would have to have an LSD Coz its a Longreach is that right? Anyway I can go and Ask the wrecking yard next door or the Chap that runs the Caravan & Boat storage place.Its been sitting there for Donkeys and when I needed a Left Hand Front Side Guard I was directed there and it too had a missing L.H.S Guard Gone,It sits amongst old earthmoveing and agricultural Equipment.I know a bloke in Goolwa who has a small towtruck with a Hi-Ab  Crane that only charges $50.00 to pu & tow a car from Goolwa to Victor Harbor.