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https://www.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=pfbid02AXXTMXanBCjFewbJRxNsXg1xcLP9QExupG5k3h46SqxAf3RRphrHxr57937tg4dFl&id=100064832616948 saw this Yesterday, would be very close that what I'd want to do with a turbo. But if the blower could be wound up to 10 psi, it'd probably come close to the power i'd like to have. Shame CAPA kits are notoriously expensive for the power they produce. Would be very cool however.

https://fordsixperformanceforum.github.io/XFheadswap.html It is possible to convert a pre xflow to xflow, not sure if it'd be worth the effort over fitting the 2V head, but I have both available to me, I'm pretty sure if I dig deep in to my collection I have a C2 head some where needing some love. I'm thinking of this for an NA combo I already have the following a fresh 250 + 30thou 214@50 thou single pattern cam Freshly machined 2V head with oversized valves. Aussiespeed 4V manifold Thermoquad 4V carb jetted for 302 manual. Pacemaker extractors split at the 2 in to 1 collectors in to a dual 2.5inch system T5 from XG longreach ute 3.27 diff from same ute I need to get the following Electronic dizzy, I'm thinking of using an MSD 6AL2 with a modified dizzy or getting an ICE ignition kit from Aussiespeed. 3.73 LSD centre for the diff Not sure if I need street terra roller rockers or not. if Im missing anything let me know. I also have a 2V manifold and a fresh Autolite 2100 2v carb with 1.33in venturi. And a fresh ADM34 weber carb as well. Looking for advice or ideas

engine number? for rego purpose is on the front left side under the head(behind power steering pump on the block, ) those casting numbers are something @CHESTNUTXE usually has a fair amount of knowledge of.

I'd have assumed XA to XE C4 trans linkage for column shift would fit the XF body pivot point. the link off the steering column i'd have assumed be in the same spot as late XF (1993, 3 speed borg warner auto) unleaded link to the bw trans was different to the leaded ones due to the cat converter.. otherwise that does swap also. I'm sure i've fitted the leaded BW box into late XF ute (had to change the bell housing due to the column shift for cat converter brace is mounted on the bell housing of late ones)*not applicable to V8 conversions, but show's it should just fit the same)

When I've restored these dashes, I do the following and the bulbs usually get brighter (well, you can at least sort of see the dash...); - replace and or clean every bulb (they get caked on with dust). I always use original type bulbs but some new led ones would make a big difference, - make sure that the earth connection is good. Pull the connector out and check that the tabs are clean (connector is on ds of dash as you look from the steering wheel side). I wouldn't go mucking around with the wiring...

i know price is ridiculas,even a cheap n20 kit hooked up for a grand would make just as much power.

Yup 100% agree and its a shame I always wanted a supercharged 4.1 even as a pimplely teenager on my P's back in the 90's cruising around in my XC. I have messaged CAPA about this kit to see what sort of pricing, I'd expect around 7 or 8k from them.

Yep the Aussie speed blower kit looks awsome but 10k ,as much power as a e Bay turbo kit for 3k.it ain't worth it

I'm a bit wary of the ebay kits given all the cheap chinese knock offs floating around. The DSM kits look alright but never really heard of them before. Are they cheap chinese crap or considered pretty good? I was looking at possibly converting either the factory dizzy using a pertronix kit or getting one of the xe or xf dizzies that I have modified to suit.

any of the e bay electronics that can be hooked up with the streetfire ignition kit,thats if you want to arc up the spark,or just run a e bay electronic with vac advance and coil kit for $150 will be fine for the street,214 cam wont like the timing down low but you could put a set of springs in it to bring the timing in quicker,most of those dizzy companys now offer a service of re graphing the thing to suit your spec,just call them ,as long as its mild ,a big cam will not like the vac advance as its useless,214 is on the edge of mild so should be ok imo,plenty there on e bay too choose from for maximum $300 spend billet usa 200/250 dizzy,or the dsm 250 pursuit kit,that will be fine imo.

Any recommendations on dizzies?

Hey Everyone, I'm about to put my XE onto the Qld SIV register and am gathering all the info needed. I pulled the starter motor to get to the engine number but I can't seem to find anything that breakes down the code for me. I'm reading the code as: J(upside down???)2AE-CA 4015 Anyone have a clue?? Cheers

i went the path of that msd 6al2 digital and its a pain in the ass you will be forever playing with it doing tune ups,and its a money down the drain ,your other set up in parts looks choice,i used a 214 tighe cam solid and its streetable and race,the ice kit it very expensive too,i would be putting that money into a brand new 465 holley or 450 d/p quickfuel and be done with it,and buy a msd or similar streetfire ignition and lock the timing at a safe level around 24 to 28deg,happy days.

The K means Sydney plant. Homebush I think it was. Closed in the [emoji[emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]]][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]]][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]]][emoji[emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]]][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]]]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]]][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji6[emoji640][emoji637]]]]]]]][emoji[emoji638][emoji639][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]][emoji[emoji6[emoji640][emoji638]][emoji640][emoji640]]]’s Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I do have an aussiespeed 4bbl manifold for the 2v head as well as the old factory manifold. The ADM would be my default carb to go to as I have a pretty good history with them. But they are limited in the top end with only about 250ish cfm. So a 4 barrel seems to be the way to go, but too many choices lol and not enough info out there on 2V headed setups that make good power and arent crazy like some of the yank setups...in an ideal world triple 1bbl's would be the go...just looks so damn cool, but doesnt seem to do much else. I have been looking at the sniper 2300 efi, but once the fuel system is changed to suit it could get pricey real quick and may not offer a return on the high setup costs for a car that will be driven occasionally....while I'd love to use it as a daily, XB's are too hard to find or repair should it get damaged by some knucklehead in a ranger or hilux driving around Wagga... I can live with the odd cranky cold start...my XB is still less temperamental than my wife of a morning.

no such thing as dumb question really, but a 4 barrel with vacuum secondaries would surely be the go rather than squirting 4 barrels every time you pushed the accelerator. i'd be finding someone who's got experience with the setup you are planning. most people these days are chucking on one of the carb replacement throttle body EFI setups and not having to deal with cold start issues, low signal from big cams etc and able to get a fairly cheap tune because they aren't pulling jets and mucking around under the bonnet anymore (dyno tuners)

Thats an interesting engine prefix and could be a x file,just make sure you read the block carefully,it all makes sense xcept the JK ,but i might have an answer for you ,my xf ute has a JL40 prefix and someone on here worked out where and what it was,could have been sparky dave,JL40 is the 2nd or 3rd production line at broadmeadows,JK IS THE NEXT LETTER TO JL,so it could be the answer,perhaps a special order car put together for reasons unknown,like a managers car or something,but other than that PU stands for july 1974 build date ,and your cleveland block is a garden variety d2ae casting 2 bolt mains.

i'd have assumed it to be either JG or JH 33, PU is related to something, i think month or year or both, the rest is part of the chassis number of the car. if it is a JK? then it is something rare i don't recall hearing about. probably be advisable to edit the number out also, just incase there's a way of scamming it somehow (someone could duplicate the number perhaps if shonky?)

Yeah, thats the casting number. Just used by the foundry. The engine number is between the dizzy and fuel pump, should be 10 or so hand stamped numbers JG34123456K or something. Matching numbers from the factory are the same on the block, the passenger side shock tower and the VIN tags. Doesn't matter if they don't, as long as the Rego dept has the recorded numbers on their computer. Most peeps don't bother to notify them when they swap engines out.

Gidday everyone, I’m hoping someone can help ID the heads I have on my clevo? Quietly confident they’ll be 2V heads looking at port size but I’m no mechanic. They don’t have the dot 2 or dot 4 stamps in the corner that I’ve seen in some articles/YouTube vids. I’ve found the following numbers stamped on them if this helps: ARD0AE and 60908 cast on the outside of the head on the manifold and then 7J6 cast on the inside with a large 1 stamped on the inside. Hopefully this helps otherwise I’ll add some photos when I get them back. Reason I’m wanting to ID them is I’m looking at a new intake manifold and want to ensure it’ll work well. thanks in advance Glen

This is going back some time, but it looks like the same distributor in this picture is still available at Vintage Inlines. That's an Aussie 250 with an early alloy head. There is a bunch of photos posted on FordMods.com, poster is XKNO1, same as the number plate.

The headlight switch might be the culprit for the dash lights. If can find a good one to try, that might narrow down the issue. If the car has a towbar, check the connections where the trailer plug wiring taps into the factory harness. If they used scotch locks, it may have severed the tail light section due to age or vibration.

Id go for a GT35 as they come on boost instantly on a 250 anyway.Convert to a 4 barrel set up as your about to jam it full of air. A 2 barrel is too small on a 200 engine let alone a 250. Id measure compression first before lowering it and if it's around 10.1 leave it alone or your making it a laggy by lowering compression for no reason. I know you don't want to make a million hp but your actually treating it better if you let it become more efficient. Upside you don't need to push it as hard to get the results you want. Id fit a programable ignition too. EST dizzy and ecu or maf control. Then you can run 28 plus degrees @ idle and low RPM no boost then drop timing as boost comes on.

if the XG one is in good condition (should be, if the box doesn't leak or has been reco'd in the past) then just use it as is. should fit the steerign column to My understanding. the aftermarket ones i'm not overly a fan of anyway.