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You can tell when an enthusiast does a job... Just keeps getting better.

Spinny spinny and yes thats a Fox Body mustang in the background. I had a good look over it last time i was there. very nice car

*crap photo warning* Glad Mark's work is better than his photography haha. Today they fixed up the factory "out of whack" leaf spring hanger. the one that was 10mm too far backwards from factory. can see how much they have moved it forward back into the right spot. plated up ready for the leaf spring to go back in Mark has also told me that they have changed their mind, and the car is now going on a rotisserie to be painted. Originally they were going to spray the underside on the hoist, then spray the engine bay, then remove the front subframe and spray that seperate.

Squirt a bit of oil in the cylinder and retest the compression, if it goes up, it's the rings.

I have a 1600 for the car So i picked up a 1600 from a club member. It was an unknown engine, that he had sitting in his garage for about 5 years. He had never used it. He let me take the engine without paying and let me comp test it etc. It had 120psi on number 1, 2 and 4. 3 was showing nothing I swapped the head for a spare 1300 head i had sitting in the shed. Picked up 120psi on number 3 and 2 but 1 & 4 now showed zero the head i put on was the old head id pulled off the 1300. The 1300 gained compression when i swapped that head off. The bottom end in the 1600 has been rebuilt. I couldn’t make out the difference in part numbers, so the pistons are either 0.30” or 0.60” oversized. Bores are clean and smooth, no lip or scoring. Next stage is to get the 1600 head rebuilt, maybe some porting work too, and run a full gasket and seal kit through the engine. Ill also be looking at the camshaft to see if its stock or warmed up. 120psi isn’t fantastic by any means, but considering from basic testing the loss in comp appears to mostly in the head, and the 1300 only had 90-100psi, this engine should be a comfortable upgrade even if it isn’t the best compression. it also came with another complete 4 speed and short shifter fitted. The gearbox feels better than mine, so i may end up keeping it and selling my 4 speed. my test bench, aka trailer 1600 head off, 1300 head on Take ya pick Now, for another update. the mounts for the 5 speed have been relocated, and driveline test fitted into the car. all fits perfectly. The car is now officially built to suit a 5 speed Can just vaguely see how far it moved. Not far at all. A couple of inches All in and clearing notice the front suspension is gone. Almost ready for paint now

Cheers Fellas, it's an idea I have but it's a very expensive idea, but requires an IRS to make it work properly. That looks quite doable. Maybe be the cheapest part. I don't need the diff just the shafts,arms, coil overs ,stub axles,hubs/brakes and sub frame. I've been pricing everything else up and it is double what I thought it would cost, just trying to decide if its worth doing when I could buy a fairly new car for the same money. Would be a bitchin project though...... Cheers for all your help on the IRS fellas. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

bumping this just to insert this photo, and any others i find again fully reco lights, sold a few years ago.. not doing it again

I saw that post too, body work is done really well but being vr vs inside is just a big let down. Originally a steel dash so there was ample opportunity to create something really interesting.

Dean, you are such a bloody legend. As are all the blokes on this forum. I'm genuinely grateful for the knowledge and wisdom that you all share... You give me more confidence each time... Thank you. I'll invest in those tools as soon as my cash situation improves...

i agree with gerg above, that's pretty normal.. something you'll probably need to be prepared for undoing the water pump bolts is a potential for them to break... if you get yourself a MAPP GAS torch, you can heat the alloy water pump around the bolts and maybe the block itself.. around that area(broken bolts are a pain in the rear) you'll also use the torch on exhaust bolts, brake line nuts, LOTS OF THINGS.. one of the most useful tools is HEAT! and WD40/penetrene etc.. i'd also tap out an EASY welsh plug, (under exhaust manifold in the block) if it's brass.. maybe the rest are.. if it's rusted steel, plan for the rest. radiator i'd leave for a while, i'd get a RADIATOR SOCK for the top hose..(will be rust flakes and crud coming from the engine once it gets run a few times) by all means flush it several times before. i can link you to another thread on another forum that has EVERYTHING you are likely to encounter also.. Bretts XK ute on fordforums https://fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?t=11355657 link to the Mapp gas torch(first one i came across complete, cheaper elsewhere though) https://sydneytools.com.au/product/bernzomatic-ts8000tk-400g-mappro-yellow-cylinder-with-high-intensity-triggerstart-torch?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjPaCBhDkARIsAISZN7SmMHewbtZjIpVgyMU3XpFh-jmEJnwHyxxSQccPKh5hn6s54Bb7DtkaAm4bEALw_wcB

G'day mate The powder is pretty expected, as the thermostat housing is normally die cast zinc and acts as an anode (sacrificial metal) in the cooling system. The rusty water is a bit of a worry but only a flush will reveal what corrosion/sediment is in the water jacket. I've found that once the oxygen in the water has reacted with the metal and has depleted, the amount of further corrosion in the water jacket diminishes. The radiator will likely need at least a service or re-core, replace all hoses and do the water pump. The ceramic seal inside it will likely be contaminated with rusty deposits. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Yes, I can answer this question. I'm in the process of rebuilding a Single Rail for my XB Falcon. There is only ONE supplier in the Australia (and the world) for single rail gearbox rebuild parts. BorgWarner/BTR/ION/DSI Australia, closed about 10yrs ago. The supplier is called ATC - in Wagga Wagga NSW According to the fellow I spoke to, there are very few parts available. You can only get the following bits new - Gaskets/seals/small bushes/bearings Shift fork Bush Syncro's Layshaft bearing assy - rollers and center shaft Nothing else is available, unless you find New Old Stock. The above kit, excl syncro's, is about $350.00

yeah you might be right. the pickup is bolted through the rail.

yeah i know about that trick. but meh. its already got better comp than the 1300. also the pistons are dished, so getting oil how to the bores to try that trick is really hard.

found it. Can see on the left there the block/chassis mount made to mount the subframe into the car. no idea how they have done the front of the subframe though.

It has been done! I have a photo, buried somewhere deep in my phone or laptop, or an XH panelvan with AU IRS fitted to it. It was surprisingly easy apparently to make the subframe fit.

It's ok Sparky, after a bit of brain crunching I found a way to make it work with a live axle rear.Just needs a bit of engineering but doable. I will reveal all later in the year or early next year....hehehe. I may still need to go IRS but at least I know now to get it from a later model if I do. Thanks for your help. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

yeah the issue is most likely valves not seating properly, and valve lash. I honestly just swapped heads without checking valve lash etc. i did it just to see if results changed with a different head, which they did. Im not putting bets on it having a big cam, because it only has the standard intake and carby with it, but potentially a warm cam. id imagine once its running, and things are hot, the compression will come up a bit.

Hey Guys, Just doing a bit on Water for cooling systems and will look at Corrosion inhibitors and coolant a bit. Let's start with water..... Now there are 3 main areas of Water to look at: 1) Softness and Hardness 2) PH and it's effects on metals. 3) Rain water VS Distilled water VS R.O. water VS Tap water. Softness and Hardness: These are terms used to describe the mineral content or Total Dissolved Solids in a water source. The softer the water the less dissolved solids are in it. The harder the water the more dissolved solids it has. This can be measured in two ways... TDS or E.C. Total dissolved solids or electromagnetic current. P.P.M. Parts Per Million. For this write up I will be using P.P.M. PH OF WATER and effects on metals. PH measures whether the water is Acidic , Neutral or Alkaline. The lower the PH, the more Acidic the water is. (PH.4- very acidic) The higher the PH, the more Alkaline the water is. (PH.10-very alkaline) Neutral PH is around 7. Acidic water will eat into metals and Alkaline water will leave scale and mineral build up if the PPM is high. Tap water is usually around PH.8-9, so it does not eat away metal pipes. Slightly Alkaline. In a motor there are all sorts of metals that interact with each other. Alloys, steel, brass, copper etc, etc. Usually in an Acidic PH state in a motor Aluminum and Alloys will act like a sacrificial anode and be the first to be corroded away. Steel will rust and brass and copper will degrade. In an Alkaline PH state in a motor again Alloys and Aluminum are affected first and calcium and other minerals will fall out of suspension and bond with metals causing white scale build up. Usually see this if you use tap water in your motor. Ok, now you understand about Dissolved Solids measured in P.P.M and PH levels let's look at the different waters. TAP WATER- P.P.M. 200-300+ (World health standard for drinking water is MAX of P.P.M. 500.) PH- 8 to 9. So tap water is high in dissolved solids and mildly Alkaline to prevent pipe corrosion. Considered Mild to Hard water depending on PPM level. The PH will be pretty constant but P.P.M will vary depending on source. RAIN WATER- P.P.M- low and varied dependant on collection method. PH. - can also vary greatly dependant on collection method. Considered Soft water as rainwater is evaporated ocean salt water and most solids are left behind. Acidity/Alkalinity varies. DISTILLED WATER- P.P.M.- between 100-200. PH. - usually around 7-8. Is considered soft water as has low PPM and also is close to PH neutral. R.O. WATER (reverse osmosis).- P.P.M. - between 20-30 PPM. PH. - usually around 7-8. Is considered very soft water and is also very close to PH neutral. CHOOSING WATER FOR USE IN MOTORS. Now, based on all that information you will find you want a water that is low in dissolved solids and pretty PH neutral. TAP water is too high in dissolved solids and PH is also too high. Alkalinity high and pH high will cause scale and mineral build up. If goes acidic, will eat metal. Bad choice. RAIN water is good as it is low in dissolved solids but PH can vary. Soft enough but PH can be unknown. Not consistent enough. DISTILLED water is great as has low amount of dissolved solids and pretty PH neutral. Good choice for use with Corrosion inhibitor concentrate or to mix with coolant concentrate. Can be purchased from Supermarkets. R.O. water (reverse osmosis) is the best with P.P.M. of only 20-30 and a neutral P.H.- to slightly Alkaline. Also strips water of chlorine, impurities. Best choice for use with Corrosion Inhibitor concentrate or Premix Coolant concentrates. Need access to R.O. water filter or buy a set up.(around $80 inc filters). Both Distilled water and R.O. water can be used alone in the cooling system but I would advise using at least a corrosion inhibitor as extra insurance. Type B: Corrosion Inhibitors come in 2 types. Type B - Corrosion inhibitor ONLY. Type A - Corrosion inhibitor and Coolant or Antifreeze/Antiboil. Early Falcons use only Corrosion inhibitor and no coolant or anti freeze/anti boil. Really only needed in extreme heat or extreme cold. The use of coolant on the 4L sohc for example may lead to too lower temp reading and possibly affect the E.C.T. sensor. Causing them to run rich. The gauge may also be affected and read low. Thermostat for these motors should be 91C as they came out with..... Can use anywhere from 87-93C. I recommend Motorad thermostats.... Very similar to Factory except has air bleed or "rattler", and factory thermostat does not. Do Not use thermostats that have been drilled and touted as "performance" thermostats. These will lower the operating temp slightly, but enough for the ecu to read the temp as cooler and richen the Air Fuel Ratio and may even prevent/hamper Lean cruise mode. Motors like Clevos , Crossys , 4L sohc and Windsors only really need Corrosion Inhibitor and distilled or R.O. water. Coolant or AntiFreeze/AntiBoil really only needs to be used in extreme situations or with performance applications. OR if required by motor specs. Coolants are typically glycol mixed with water and dye added. (Glycol is actually clear.) The new generation of coolants are water free but require a special flushing agent be used before using the coolant. As there is no water in the mix, there is little to no corrosion. Evans Waterless coolants. Most cooling system problems can be fixed with proper radiator shrouds, correct thermostat and fan system. Coolant really shouldn't be used to fix an inefficient system. Hope this helps some people and explains why you don't use tap water in your cooling system. FORD ON! Outback Jack. That what you were after@SPArKy_Dave ?

Sprayed the the contact's, Jiggled the switch on/off for a good solid 3 minutes , High Beam came on on the Left headlight but not the right. took the right headlight out and checked the backing plate for the high beam globe , was dirty (pic Below) , gave it a quick clean with a wire brush , Presto , Hi beam now work's on both Headlight's.

In regards to the Ph of Cloud juice (Rainwater) i reckon it must be on the alkaline side. Im on acreage and dont have mains water ,just rainwater from tanks(about 140,000 Litres) when full. When i put lots of it into the pool, i always have to put Hydrochloric Acid in the pool to bring the Ph back up.

Hey Mick, try just cleaning it with contact cleaner from how far you have it stripped down now. Spray it in, flick it into all positions multiple times, spray again and do same. After a few goes should clean all the dust out. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

laminated should be fine for side windows then? i've seen them on trucks etc with cracks in them (door glass,. for acoustic reason?) ps.. the WIDENED LJ torana is for sale..(don't look at the dash, it's body swapped onto a VR commo platform) https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/taree/auto-body-parts/lj-torana/1269001781

I believe you can't cut tempered glass once it's gone through the tempering process. The shape needs to be cut/ground to it's final form, then tempered. It's not so much about the toughened bit (but that does help a lot), it's more about, in an accident, the glass breaking into small, manageable, less threatening cubes instead of deadly sharp flying shards that could kill or maim an occupant. Hence the term "safety glass". Old windscreens were made like this until laminated became the industry standard. The problem with safety glass is that one small chink in the corner of the glass sends the whole windscreen frosty with a million little cubes and visibility goes to zero. Not fun at freeway speeds. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Small update. I got the gearbox stripped down to an empty case, and then cleaned it and put the case, extension housing back together. I also split the 1300 and 4 speed, and took the bell housing over and bolted it onto the 5 speed case. Before the end of the week, ill have the spare 1300 block and 5 speed box delivered to Mark so they can fit the driveline and move the gearbox mounts on the body. I dont have anymore progress photos of the car, but the car is getting very close to being painted. We finished cleaning and prepping the underside of the car. Bonnet is ready to go. Mark is hoping to have it painted before easter. His painter goes on leave for the month of April, with a temporary painter coming in to only do basic insurance work. If the car isn't painted by Easter, then it will be May before it gets into the spray booth. It doesn't bother me in the slightest if it gets delayed, it would give me more time to get other things sorted for the car. I picked up the new windscreen for the car today. I also took delivery of a pair of NOS "hockey stick" chrome trims, because mine were beyond repairing. I also have a pair of NOS Hella H4 headlights . When I started this, I honestly dont think i was expecting the build to go to the extent it has, and i didn't think there would be so many new parts fitted. My problem is, I dont know when to stop spending money on new parts