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Ok block is cleaned and painted and put the core plug set in tomorrow will drop the crank in and maybe a piston or 2 Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

Update,I got the block back in better than I thought cond,then spent a few hrs giving it its 2nd final clean,wd it,now wait a few days before painting the block,he fitted the pistons as well,also scored a timing pointer this morning. Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

So refreshing to see so much info ,questions I was wondering about and picked up 2 things straight away I needed to know.even has stuff on clevo and 400. Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

also you cant put a early crank in a 79 onwards block because it will hit the block,later 460 cranks are slightly smaller on the counterweight ,and later blocks from d9te have a little bit taller deck height and is the one to go for if building a stroker,also D6 truck conrods are the same strength as cobra jet rods and im lucky to have a set,and also have better bolts.

i found a set of caps for the other block ,getting them next month,at least thats something and got them cheap so a line bore is not out of the question anymore,and it will give me another 460 to build or 429 ,im thinking of doing a nice 429 just for something different,rods are the same and pistons are cheap as chips from usa as most go for the 460 build,just some ideas at this stage.

i took the block down to the machine shop,took the cam bearings and 1 piston to give him something to look at when honing the block,so this time next week we can start to put it together hopefully,i also bought a book on big block building ,should get deliverd soon.

Well it could be , problem is evrytime I take a pic on that driveway the camera makes it look x5 worse than it actually is,if in the garage they seem to be fine,interesting thing about scratches I once took a 400 clevo crank to the machine shop to get it milled and he said that big scratch won't affect its performance,he could have easy said ahh yeah m8 $350 to mill it but he didn't and just got the crank linished and it was fine I guess maybe what angle the scratch or scouring is. Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

Had my ocd maxing out !

I thinks it just run off from the still a bit dirty head bolt holes ,I took that picture about 1 minute after wd40 it and turning it around on the stand. Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

Is that a “ gouge “ in no; 1 cylinder ,,? arround 7 o ‘clock position ,,

Pro-Gram makes Front, Center & rear main caps for cleveland, windsor (5.0, 302 & 351) & BBF, https://mwengineservices.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2012/01/Catalogue_V2.pdf

Almost correct .. Spot on for the crank counterweights . The D9 blocks are same deck height, the difference is the bores are a bit longer downwards which in a stroker setup adds a little extra for the piston. Although in theory that is good , in reality it doesn't really make a huge difference

yes it even has red flags on things you must do on re assembly ,there is a tiny hole in one of the inlet ports that must be plugged and bottom hole on timing cover goes into the water jacket and must use sealer.

The book is here Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

Thanks for that Sent from my SM-A125F using Tapatalk

Yea the plan was 408 stoker for the van, but never been sure on a bb, like I have the spare 302 at home, just more of a price weigh up on things on parts as I build myself and the machine work gets done for me at cost or less Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

Big blocks are cheap horsepower but heavy. Strokers get it done with much less weight but the bits are expensive, only the block basically remains, everything else is turfed for new bits Sent from my CPH2197 using Tapatalk

Well im in ISO for a week with the spicy cough So that means i can try get a bit of stuff done on the Escort. First thing I did was test fitted the new extractors. There was a hand written note on them “1300? Hit floor” Well unfortunately that is exactly the case. Because the 1600 block is around 1/2” taller, the extractors do in fact hit the firewall in front of passenger footwell. I then worked on the boot latch, cleaned it, reinstalled it and adjusted it. Nice to have a functional locking boot again.

What a cool project. Love the first Eskies/Capri's. Did you look at reset leaf springs, or happy with lowering blocks.?

Well the car is back on its wheels and rolling again. Its nice to look under the car and everything is clean instead of being caked in over 40 years of dirt I had a go at fitting the new front corner bumpers. they are brand new reproduction bumpers and brackets. The side brackets are a bit off, and as confirmed by Mark, they will need to be adjusted in a vice, test fitted, rinse and repeat until happy with the result

Hey man, I've done about 300 ks so far, all over the beautiful roads we have out here at Bathurst Lots of twisty, windy and potholed roads on my way to work. I duck across past Tarana to get to work at Oberon. So much better with the new shocks in it. Handles a lot better and I'm not slamming into the chassis/bumpstops everytime I run over a pebble. So all in all pretty happy with them, especially for the price.

As I keep saying, progress is very slow. However both leaf springs are finally in. going to pull the handbrake bar off tonight and the brake lines on the diff to clean them up, and maybe bolt the diff in tonight also. Should be on its wheels by the weekend

Progress has been slow but it is happening. all the rear suspension parts have been painted with VHT High temp roll cage and subframe black, it finishes almost like powder coating rather than paint. Fitted up the freshly coated leaf springs, new bushes, new shackles, new nylock nuts. tried the new sandwich pads, and uh oh, there is an issue. the new pads do not have big enough pin to do the same. it barely makes it flush with the top plate (see above picture) the original pads have a tall enough rubber centring pin to poke through the top plate, with a steel collar around the rubber pin, to locate the springs into the diff. even with the steel collar, the new pad does NOT provide anything to centre on, relying on as little as a mm to keep centre. not safe. So from here I went to my brother's house, and we got our heads together and designed and cut on his CNC a new guide pin. so the new pin is cut out of solid plastic. we have machine the pad out from 14mm ID to 18mm ID. The new pin slips inside the new 18mm ID of the pad. The new pin has a hollow with a 14mm ID to slip over the steel pin in the middle of the leaf spring. The top of the new pin is 23 or 24mm, the right size to locate in the diff. This is prototype 1, unfortunately we didn't hollow out the under side deep enough, so the steel pin in the middle of the spring bottoms out before the pad and pins can sit down properly.

Further Update: grew up in the States and have family there so im all sorted now..got a good deal! 2 barrel sniper master kit is sorted and on way.. I will do a thread on OZfalcon to show it’s fit up. I could have gone the 4 barrel version, but for what I’m doing there’s no point.. the flow is around 500cfm from a 2 barrel Sniper and I suspect it may atomise better on a mild 4.0 or 4.1. im keeping the Redline Tourqer manifold for the moment to compare against others at a latter date.

Hey guys, bought a c4 tranny and the selector shaft seal is leaking so I need to replace it. Had to remove the valve body and a piece of flat metal fell out. Figured out that it is a broken retainer. (See example pic below) The tab is still holding the valve but the flat part on top (circled in pic) has snapped off on the end. Not sure what happened there but was wondering will it still be ok or will I need to get one? Anyone know where I can get one of these? Cheers