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got a rattle gun onto it. It is done up all the way nice and tight. Thank's again gent's

Got it running without the cable

She purrs! I bet you can't wait to turn a wheel in anger Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Got the throttle bracket on & sorted out the airfilter everything else is hooked up. Not sure how to hook up the throttle cable but ill have a look at some car mags & see how others have done it Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Yeah she feels very responsive Jack, i like it. She is still registered atm i just need to go for a rwc & get it registered in my name. Its in a friends name atm. Long story

Awesome Free!, nice quick response on the carby. Getting closer to rego, bet your excited. Well done. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk

The cars probably going to end up as a daily to take some Ks off the other car so easily drivable and not an absolute fuel guzzler was what I had in mind. It’s not intended as a performance build, it’s replacing the flogged out current engine. so I’m not to worried if I should’ve gone .500+ I ended up sticking with the camtech .477 208deg cam. Haven’t finished the build yet but I’m happy with what I’ve decided on. My brothers bought a 14892 so it’ll be interesting to compare the two when we’re done.

I didn't mention how good( or not) they were

Cross threaded the nut...??

Haha oh I'll be using it alright soon as i get this sum bitch carb hooked up

Nice one! Your engine looks too pretty to use now [emoji38] Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

This should do the trick Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Ive pretty much figured how the bracket will go on (can only go on 1 way) which means i gotta run the cable around the back of the motor. Need to take the carb off again & get 2 longer bolts as i figured the bolts aren't long enough to bolt both bracket & carb down.

Also bought this, will drill a hole in the air filter base & screw this in & connect the hose that goes to the cannister Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

This arrived in the post today, not sure if it goes on upside down or downside up + now i think the bolts that came with the adaptor plate are too short now to bolt the carb down aswell as the throttle bracket. Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Will still soumd like a bag of shit!!!, it has a standard exhaust fitted atm cos i was planning to go for a rwc & get it registered in my name. Sure sounds better with the twin 2.5". Im confident it will perform much better than the TQ was

Yep that's what I'm on about. Sounds like you get what I'm saying... Can't wait to hear this thing run! Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Ok so the clear hose pictured that's the one that was on the float bowl so that can be blocked off & the black one that went to the front of the TQ thats the one that needs to be fitted to the air filter base im assuming? Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

Ok gotcha now. You will either have to install a fitting into the air cleaner close to the carby entry or just hide/remove that purge hose altogether. If you leave it disconnected rather than hooked up to the air cleaner, there will likely be a waft of fuel smell constantly coming out of the charcoal can, especially on hot days when there is more vapour being produced out of the tank. Don't block it though, your fuel tank needs to breathe through the can. Back when I was a kid, my XB ballooned its tank out from 80 to 92 litres when it somehow failed to vent. My dad (who owned it then) only discovered this when he went to fill it up and noticed that it took way too much fuel compared to normal. The other hose (I presume) went from the float bowl on the ThermoQuad back down to the can. That should be plugged off there, just a short bit of hose with a screw in it will do. Your Holley isn't sealed so technically isn't an emissions carby like your TQ was. It just vents the bowls through the small passages on top at the entry to the throats, to be burnt up by the engine. When stationary (not running), the fuel vapour will waft out of these vents and out through the air cleaner. This is why old cars with these kinds of carbys always smell like fuel. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

This is what it says about the ports on the carb, i now know rear is for pcv but have left it blocked off cos im using the port on the adaptor plate & i now know the one on the side is for vac advance (cheers Greg), just not sure what should do about the 2 cannister hoses Sent from my SM-A520F using Tapatalk

The carb should come with instructions showing which port does what. I know the one up on the drivers side is for vac advance, as the port goes just above the throttle blade when at idle. When the blade opens slightly, the port is now below the throttle blade and supplies vacuum to the dizzy. The others are all for vacuum accessories that can just be plugged. If you have everything else already running off the manifold tees, these ports are not needed. Holley just puts them there as some manifolds aren't drilled for all that bullshit and they need to allow for that. The only full-time vac supply you should need is for PCV, brake booster and cabin heater/vent controls. Carbon canister should just vent to the air filter or somewhere near the opening of the carby. Some emissions Holleys have an extra fitting out the top of the bowls to also connect to vac, but when running these vent the canister plus the bowls down through the carby. Yours probably doesn't have that though. Don't hook the cannister up to vacuum, you'll get the engine sucking excessive fuel vapours from the tank (messing up your mixture) and sometimes even raw fuel if it happens to slosh up into the vent lines on top of the tank. Don't ask how I found this out. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Unknown camshaft equals troubles really. By the time you send it to get a cam doctor sheet for dial in the cost is already close to a new cam. Have a look on the end of the r-grind cam for any identifiers. Might save time. As others have said, nut out exactly what you want from the engine and then build a combo to suit. COMBINATION being the emphasis. Not all of us want a 280-300rwhp crossy. Whilst they are fun and manageable on the street, they are not cheap. Gerg is spot on with his recommendations, on lift, duration and lobe sep. in my opinion a good fun street engine hits bloody hard off the bottom, has enough vacuum for decent brakes and has a mid range hit that gets you very excited. Many years ago I did a small 2 barrel engine for a bloke well past his 50’s who lives in Brissy. 240@.050 and .510 lift solid Tighe cam. It does everything very nicely. Runs 3.45 gears as he runs it at Willowbank on club days. Drives it everywhere and smiles every time. Made 198rwhp on Zox performance dyno. Ultraflow 2 barrel, 500 Holley a set of rockers, extractors etc. - all second hand to keep it budget friendly. Follow the cam grinders guidllines on comp and gearing and you can’t go too far wrong as they are an excellent base. Enjoy

just buy the whole kit from crow .cam,lifters,springs,retainers,they sell heaps of combos for crossflows

You can never hurt anything but your wallet with roller rockers, but stock rockers aren't a deal-breaker at 0.500" lift. You will need valve springs at a minimum, seeing as they are very ordinary even with a standard cam. Having a more aggressive ramp on the lobe will amplify any lack of spring pressure. You may run into issues with pushrod length with the base circle taken off, by how much I dunno but to compensate, I guess you could either run valve lash caps or take a bit off the rocker pedestals. If you choose to go with 7/16” stud adjustable roller rockers, that will let you take up this clearance, but that will need machining of the head. All this is extra expense just to run a cam that will have questionable benefit to power. False economy if you ask me. Unless there's an absolute must-do reason why you have to run it, I would pass on it. It would ultimately be cheaper, and result in more power and torque, to go with a mild aftermarket cam that's compatible with stock valvetrain components. So, still around 0.500" lift like the one you have, but longer duration and overlap. Build for midrange to capitalise on where the crossy's going to be happy. Something like a 214/214 @0.050", with a nice overlap aiming for a 110 LSA but no more than 0.500" lift to keep your springs and rockers happy. Roller rockers aren't a power-adder like the manufacturer's always harp on about. This has been proven many times on a dyno. They're insurance against premature wear or breakage when you start going bigger with everything else (springs, valves, cam lift, pushrods), so if you don't need them, don't get them. They'll offer a very poor hp-per-dollar return on your project. For a first engine, keep things conservative and focus on proper assembly, maximising what stock parts you have, and aim for 15-20% power increase maximum. Balance rods and pistons, shave flywheel, bump up compression a tad. Crossys are pretty lazy in the rpm department so make them work where they're happy; between 2000-4500. The only internal component besides cam that I would change is valvesprings. Cam: look at crow's catalogue as a guide and look down the column at hydraulic grinds at around the 0.500" lift, then from there choose your duration. I think a stock speedway cam is a good warm streeter with not too much lift but lopey idle and midrange punch. Springs: stock ones barely test at 80 pounds on the seat. The next step up would be around 110 which would be more than adequate for a warm street engine. Your mate giving you that cam might be a nice gesture but you'll spend big dollars getting it to work for little gain over stock. Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Just a heads up for XG ute owners. May fit other E series too. Super cheap Autos has Bosch rotor caps and rotor buttons cheap at the moment. Bosch Rotor Cap suit XG Part no. GB862C $4.99 Bosch Rotor Button suit XG Part no. GB865C $4.99 Usually a lot more expensive to buy these. Sent from my S21 using Tapatalk