Done the Shelby drop: Some like to go 1/8" to the rear on the new holes for added caster and to allow for the slight upward angle of the originals which if you projected 1" perpendicular (as I have) , would actually put the arm slightly forward from the original mount point. Oh well, in the whole scheme of things, I don't think it really makes much difference. If I have to, I'll shim out the front mount bolt so the arm tilts back a bit, pushes the upper ball joint back and gets some caster that way. Only way to know is to drive it. Template: Wider shot: Arm in: Notes: The steel in this area is very tough and is double-skinned. The trick here, especially with the 1/2" bit, is to slow the drill right down and to use plenty of lube. I mean drown it in WD or similar. Use a nice sharp bit, and if it's cutting well, it should be peeling off nice curly bits of swarf. If it's chipping, you don't have enough bite and /or not pressing hard enough, and will possibly burn out. This is bad in this area because if you work-harden the bit you're drilling, you're in a world of shit. It gets very bitey toward the end of the drilling so brace yourself if you're using a drill with some balls. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk