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Deankdx, I just had my 34 adm rebuilt by a place In Sydney, I took some close up pics of it while I had it off and back on the car, I'll get some pics loaded here later today. Usual suspects of bad idling, (vacuum leak, excess fuelled jet) flat spots on acceleration (accel. pump) 6 pumps to start (auto choke replace) also carb overtightening on the manifold causing vacuum leaks at the base.

Yes, guy reckon most over tighten the carb down, bending the base plate. Full kit was 88 bucks, rebuild 200 including fitting a good SH auto choke. That vacuum advance might be right for yours if you are not using a EST dizzy.

This thing run so much better now too. here some pics. below....rebuilt below...rebuilt installed Below....EGR side before rebuild Below.. Can't remember where I found this guide.

Got a second hand starter from rusty fords earlier..........and shes alive again woohoo

Nope...the manifold uses a thick 20mm or so spacer and thick gaskets and to tune em right you need to be able to fit a syncronizer to the carb bell to set em up. Needed room for that. All this bull shit about space is just that bull shit. Ive seen cars on dynos where you close the bonnet with 5mm above the carb make exactly same hp bonnet open or closed. As for carbs to use no carb beats the webbers. The fab work involved in the 3 Holleys is too much and they require a serious engine to work. Webers work on stock or race type deals. Tuning em is sooooooo easy and parts easy to get. My vote Webbers for lyf PS the air box is no faster than just open carb trumpets too. Ive done it waaaaaay too many times to be wrong. On the street it may be better but my deal no way.

Im actually keeping em and the NA cyl head now. Im build a 2nd forged bottom end like the current one and just have 2 engine combos to use as I feel.

I have painted both my previous block and the block i have now in 2 pack without any problems except the paint darkened on the heads where the extractors bolted on, it has held well without any cracking or peeling etc. Once it was clean i gave the block a clean up with a wire brush on the grinder, prep washed it, primed it with a pressure pack of high temp, rough go over with scotch-brite, then top-coated it 2 pack body-colour and hit it with clear about 20 mins later.