LJDB 103 Posted December 18, 2015 Can I used standard 250 valve springs to break in a camtech 510 or is there a better alternative. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted December 18, 2015 Standard is fine as long as you don't rev it over 3000.I use a paint pen to put a dot on the top backside of every pushrod in white for proof of pushrods turning,I use Joe Gibbs break in oil,heat oil on a electric pan outside in a old pot to just under 90c by my temp gun,leave rocker cover off pour in all over rocker gear and down the into lifters and quickly prime oil pump,have the carb and everything ready to fire with timing light @ the ready along with hose and extinguisher if you have 1 and a mate to help out.Sit rocker cover on top via a couple of bolts finger tight. Start engine do a quick check then use a proper timer or your ph stop watch and set it for 20mins after timing is set and you have verified all pushrods are infact turning,then replace rocker cover and tighten down. Well I do more than explained here but I'll never have another flat tappet fail on me again by going over the top...Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. 3 ando76, Thom and scottly reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted December 18, 2015 yes you learn a hard lesson when cam failure occur's,my last engine ate the cam in 8000km's probly from incorrect pre-load and poor quality brand cam,and installing inner springs from 1st start .ooouuuch ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
PRO250 1,506 Posted December 19, 2015 We run that cam in chrises beacon I just run it without the inner spring it was a compcam 130seat 320open item I cant remember more info then that without looking, it worked out wellIts funny that was one cam we never gave a shit about stick it in run it in and changed the oil and the next moring off to the strip LOL and 2 years on its still alive you will like that stick it works good in even a basic engine just make sure you have 10 points of comp 1 dougie77 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted December 19, 2015 Thanks for the tips guys hopefully it arrives before Xmas. Sly do u mean start it then shut if off do some quick checks then start again and run for 20min. Or pull the rocker cover off while running and quickly check the pushrods are turning then refit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted December 19, 2015 Start the engine keep it running set timing check pushrods are turning bolt rocker cover down and finish run it. Dead set you NEED to confirm the pushrods are turning or you will have metal thru the engine and wiped lobe in no time. 2 dougie77 and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted December 23, 2015 Got the cam yesterday, done everything today. Didn't start straight away but pushrods where all turning. glad I followed your tip sly with the markings on the pushrod. Abit of relief when she fired and they all span. Pulled the engine out to fix some other bits. Took the hv oil pump out and fitted a std jp pump I had. Massive difference in the amount of oil in the head when running. 5 slydog, ando76, gerg and 2 others reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
broken-wheel 659 Posted December 24, 2015 did you put a gasket on the oil pump ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted December 24, 2015 Yes but I didn't have one for the pick up to pump so I used sealer. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
broken-wheel 659 Posted December 24, 2015 should not use anything between the pump and the block 1 matt_lamb_160 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted December 24, 2015 Unfortunately it should not be part of a rebuild kit but they still put em in there.No I don't and most everyone else who builds xflows doesn't put em in either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted December 24, 2015 I wasn't planing on using one but found one lying around. I did use sealer on it. What is the issue do they blow out or something. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted December 24, 2015 The gasket shrinks and when you give them a good rev every now and again the harmonics cause stress to the gasket and before you know it BAM it sucks air through the gap and then bad things happen. When I send my oil pumps out to customers I throw away the gasket supplied by Mellings and instruct customers not to use a gasket. I've seen too many speedway engines killed because of a gasket in that area. Bit of 515 is all that is needed. 2 Outback Jack and gerg reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted December 24, 2015 What is good oil pressure for a xflow. My cortina has a basic gauge in the dash with a bar for 0 to 7 with no oil pressure light. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted December 24, 2015 Well here goe's another argument but 10 PSI per 1000 RPM under load.When hot and @ idle mine has gone as low as 45 or so but soon as you rev it oil pressure beats the tacho up to 72PSI. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted December 24, 2015 If you are running a std. off the shelf pump you will be lucky to see more than 55psi on a fresh engine. Why? Cause that is where the factory relief is set. You may see higher or lower due to loose manufacturing tolerances. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted December 24, 2015 Not sure if it's a coincidence or bad luck but it looks like engines coming back out. Went to take it for a drive this morning as I planned on doing the Xmas duties in it and notice the oil pressure had dropped a fair bit from when I had bedded in the cam. Checked the switch seems ok. Removed the rocker cover and dizzy and primed the engine a with a drill. Took awhile for oil to come out of Rockers and Afair bit of air bubble especially at no6 inlet. Continued priming to purge any air and no6 inlet continues to blow bubble with the occational bubble out of other rockers and a loud bubbly sound coming from the dizzy hole. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted December 26, 2015 Change the oil filter and see if your oil,pressure is restored. Reason; it's not uncommon for the assembly lube to clog the filter element. Especially if you jam the stuff on, like I do, in flat tappet applications. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted December 26, 2015 on my dash when cold its ok pressure on an 33 year old engine,then as it warms up she nearly go's to zero unless you rev it up then goes to normal ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted December 26, 2015 I wouldn't be trusting any stock gauge when it comes to oil pressure. Not until it is verified with a known quality aftermarket or proper hydraulic test unit. 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHESTNUTXE 7,312 Posted December 26, 2015 when i rebuild it should i go for a std or hi volume ? or keep the fomoco one Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted December 26, 2015 Ok I'll bite. No need for a high volume pump. EVER. STD is more than adequate. Original pump probably has a few miles on it by now. 1 NZXD reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LJDB 103 Posted December 27, 2015 Il drop the oil and filter and check the oil pressure at work. The engine doesn't sound noise so maybe it's just the gauge. It is alittle slow to react on initial start up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ando76 4,354 Posted December 27, 2015 If it's a mechanical gauge you may need to bleed it. Disconnect the gauge end and crank the engine till the aerated oil comes out then hook her back up. Can get a bit messy so have heaps a rag handy 1 Outback Jack reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted December 27, 2015 Ok I'll bite. No need for a high volume pump. EVER. STD is more than adequate. Original pump probably has a few miles on it by now. Bahahahahahahaha... 4 gerg, Thom, wagoon and 1 other reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
