RAWDEAL 222 Posted October 4, 2015 I have a windsor in my XB .. and up until a while ago everything was fine with the cooling. I am not sure why but slowly the temp rises all the way up to about 95/100 (at that point i turn the car off) even when its a cold night and i am doing a steady 100kmph (which used to hold 80-85 even with no fans on) The only possibility's i can think of is A: somehow the thermostat isn't opening B: The new water pump isn't circulating properly.---EDIT--- C: Maybe ignition timing or Gas Mixtures? car is running an Au rad / Fans and a thermo fan controllerthe thermostat is a cold one.. as the car is straight gas. Thermostat is i think an 75 degree? I just put a new water pump in it less that 1000ks agoI can set the fans to come on anywhere between 20 and 100 degrees Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
FORD_MAN 1,026 Posted October 4, 2015 start with a new Radiator cap, go from there Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted October 4, 2015 Could be water going past in radiator to fast. I used a real big pully on my clevo and it never got hot after that.Plus the thermostat seems low,id suggest going to a 85-87 unit and checking it work but plonking it in freshly boiled water. If it works it will open. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted October 4, 2015 start with a new Radiator cap, go from there it doesn't use water though? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SPArKy_Dave 8,881 Posted October 4, 2015 Dodgy ignition module or hall effect sensor throwing the timing out, and/or a faulty IAT sensor causing the same. EFI Windsors are bad for it. (assuming of course it's an EFI Windsor) In my experience, they'll get up to 110degrees, but won't actually overheat. Just run very hot. 3 slydog, XTREME KARTS XF and Thom reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bagged351 9 Posted October 4, 2015 Could possibly be a blocked radiator? When it is hot and the fans are running if you put your hands ( carefully ) in front of them and one side is blowing hot and one side cold means there is a blockage. Sent from my SM-G900I using Tapatalk 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted October 4, 2015 The fact it creeps slowly and stays there @ hy speed shows theres air going past but yet temp rises. If the thermstat has a by pass in it or if it's even working can be a issue. Seems very cold for a stocker and car run @ the most efficient closer to water boiling point. Id change to a hotter thermostat and confirm it actually works and check water flow.Like said maybe the rad is partially blocked and or the thermostat is the issue. Next question is the gauge imperial or metric ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted October 4, 2015 Dodgy ignition module or hall effect sensor throwing the timing out, and/or a faulty IAT sensor causing the same. EFI Windsors are bad for it. (assuming of course it's an EFI Windsor) In my experience, they'll get up to 110degrees, but won't actually overheat. Just run very hot. I pretty much just want it to run at about 85ish degrees , its lpg only it should run fine , that way if something goes wrong im not already at 96 degrees or whatever they normally run at Where do i buy the Ign Module ? Car is setup with a Impco 425 and an MSD box on the original dizzy, no other efi hardware at all The fact it creeps slowly and stays there @ hy speed shows theres air going past but yet temp rises. If the thermstat has a by pass in it or if it's even working can be a issue. Seems very cold for a stocker and car run @ the most efficient closer to water boiling point. Id change to a hotter thermostat and confirm it actually works and check water flow.Like said maybe the rad is partially blocked and or the thermostat is the issue. Next question is the gauge imperial or metric ? Its a metric guage lol Rad is pretty much brand new, and its an even level of heat throughout ill buy a new thermostat at supercheap today.. ill also source some of that spring that they use in the lower hose because it sucks in a little bit (but wasnt enough for me to worry about it untill now) I should add ! this cooling setup (fans / rad / ect) used to cool my grout filled clevo , until it needed to be pulled apart so i swapped in the windsor Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
slydog 7,873 Posted October 5, 2015 Yes replace the hose with a AC one. Even my xflow has a spring in it. 1 bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,271 Posted October 5, 2015 Coolant/water boils at a higher temp under pressure, Radiator cap has a relief spring, a seal, allows pressure to vent... cheap too.!! Bottom hose collapsing Timing issue Anything in the Windsor block, that may have come loose. EG: dirt, sand, mud that is now in the rad.? Heat issues are always a PITA, let us know how ya get on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted October 5, 2015 Coolant/water boils at a higher temp under pressure, Radiator cap has a relief spring, a seal, allows pressure to vent... cheap too.!! Bottom hose collapsing Timing issue Anything in the Windsor block, that may have come loose. EG: dirt, sand, mud that is now in the rad.? Heat issues are always a PITA, let us know how ya get on. at the moment it runs a near brand new Tridon cap the one where you can pull it up to relieve the pressure (great fuckin idea if you need to top it up when its hot!) Totally forgot to get the damn cap today! To hot outside its messing with my body , im not used to it! Ill swing past supercheap tmoz and grab one. I assume 16psi is fine ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,271 Posted October 5, 2015 You got a recovery bottle.? 2 kinds of cap. One allows coolant to vent through the overflow hose and onto the street, the other has the ability to allow the coolant back into the rad. (recovery type). Make sure they know which one you want. 16 psi should do it. Got any other temp gauges you could fit up.? Yours might be reading incorrectly. Try turning your fans on 10* colder. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted October 5, 2015 You got a recovery bottle.? 2 kinds of cap. One allows coolant to vent through the overflow hose and onto the street, the other has the ability to allow the coolant back into the rad. (recovery type). Make sure they know which one you want. 16 psi should do it. Got any other temp gauges you could fit up.? Yours might be reading incorrectly. Try turning your fans on 10* colder. I dont have another guage at the moment , but ill try to get another one if the thermostat doesnt work its a non recovery type, just spits out on the ground if it overheats Its an aftermarket BA/BF header tank that i had the mounts rewelded to suit my application Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted October 22, 2015 UPDATE got the thermostat out before i out the new one in.. what direction should the face? im pretty sure its spring side faces radiator of that makes sense? Sent from my GT-I9505 using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mr Polson 10,214 Posted October 22, 2015 It should say to rad on one face. Most do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted October 22, 2015 It should say to rad on one face. Most do. it diddnt say anything on it ,,,, .BUT a quick google of 'which direction to face thermostat' gave me several youtubes of 302w thermostat installs i think i had it the wrong way the spring must face INTO the intake . ive fixed it with the old tstat. hopefully it fixes it. although i cant remember 100% what direction it was in before hand as i took the housing off and it fell lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
deankxf 20,294 Posted October 22, 2015 it diddnt say anything on it ,,,, .BUT a quick google of 'which direction to face thermostat' gave me several youtubes of 302w thermostat installs i think i had it the wrong way the spring must face INTO the intake . ive fixed it with the old tstat. hopefully it fixes it. although i cant remember 100% what direction it was in before hand as i took the housing off and it fell lol i beleive the spring side is the intake side(engine side) so that it gest the heat into the plunger part which causes it to open. they should make it that it cant go in backwards.. that would be a good idea. 3 Outback Jack, XTREME KARTS XF and bear351c reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bear351c 10,271 Posted October 23, 2015 Yup,....this ^ ^ ^ 2 Outback Jack and XTREME KARTS XF reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted November 5, 2015 i beleive the spring side is the intake side(engine side) so that it gest the heat into the plunger part which causes it to open. they should make it that it cant go in backwards.. that would be a good idea. Yeah i changed the Tstat around. Still the same issue. I am going to put a spring thing in the bottom hose... and try that . otherwise i am not sure wtf is going on ! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted November 5, 2015 You need a spring in the bottom hose to stop the water pump sucking the hose in. If you are running hot even at freeway driving, it sounds like a flow problem. Are the top & bottom hoses an even temp?? Are the tanks on the radiator even temp?? The other question is, are the fans wired up correctly?? If the fans are wired backwards, you might be pushing the heat back into the radiator, instead of drawing it out. With wind flowing in at 100km/h & fans trying to push it back out from the other side, the heat will be trapped & just keep getting hotter. Simple test, when the fans come on, does hot air pump out towards the engine, or out through the front of the grill?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted November 5, 2015 Just reading back, you have a BA header tank? Does your radiator have a cap or is it completely sealed?? I've seen people get the radiator fill cap mixed up with the header tank recovery style cap & lead to all sorts of issues. 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RAWDEAL 222 Posted November 5, 2015 You need a spring in the bottom hose to stop the water pump sucking the hose in. If you are running hot even at freeway driving, it sounds like a flow problem. Are the top & bottom hoses an even temp?? Are the tanks on the radiator even temp?? The other question is, are the fans wired up correctly?? If the fans are wired backwards, you might be pushing the heat back into the radiator, instead of drawing it out. With wind flowing in at 100km/h & fans trying to push it back out from the other side, the heat will be trapped & just keep getting hotter. Simple test, when the fans come on, does hot air pump out towards the engine, or out through the front of the grill?? fans are good spring will be done tomorrow the top and bottom hose are how but the radiator is also hot EDIT: i was also thinking if that doesnt work . to cut the center from the thermostat, and that will tell me if the fucker isnt opening properly Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ricktewagon 39 Posted November 5, 2015 I saw vids on youtube where they drop one in a pot on the stove to confirm its no good. 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Thom 6,651 Posted November 5, 2015 I saw vids on youtube where they drop one in a pot on the stove to confirm its no good. You should always test them before you fit them, just went through a batch of 10 new ones before I found one that worked at the correct temperature 1 slydog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stu5766 394 Posted November 5, 2015 What type of fan sensor are you running??? Are they multi speed or single speed. I knew a guy who changed his whole engine due to over heating, only to find it was the high speed fan relay not working. Fans were only operating at low speed & couldn't keep the thing cool. That was in an XH ute. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites