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Showing results for 'radiator'.
Found 564 results
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it's pretty easy to burn through $4000 on an engine rebuild, especially if doing hoses, belts, oils, fluids etc.. (add heater core and radiator into it .. just keeps going up) My old Neighbor (old in age, and old as in previous) used to undo the oil pressure switch and pump engine oil in there to prime the oil system on some cars. if you left the manifold off and got creative you could use a drill to prime the oil system by either making up a hex drive that fits the drill into where the dizzy goes, (might be able to buy one even?)
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Ok Thanks deankdx.When it was running real good after warming it up on petrol I would stop and change over to Gas LPG.No issues at all but some time later starting on Gas was difficult as it seemed the starter was trying to overcome a Compression problem.This was just before the Head Gasket blew so it might have been Coolant getting in the cylinder.I disconnected the Gas lines so I'll connect them and see what Happens.Anyway if I don't have any success with XH and I have to send it somewhere I still would like to keep the motor & trans & radiator. Now question can the SOHC be fitted in a 2005 RTV Ute engine bay? It looks sort of similiar.Anyway enjoy your day I'll be workin on a car outside in the Drizzle!Talk about learning about cars!
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if you want to read a LOT... but learn a LOT.. this thread below is all you'll need probably. if you ask Me, the AU is too hard into XG due to the alloy sump.. (mate of mine did it, paid $400 for a TUFF MOUNTS Barra conversion sway bar..) then you still have to do the same mods as for EF/EF which is either use the serpentine belt setup or convert it to the V belts (EF onwards water pump outlet is smaller, so you need a custom joint in your radiator hose for that.. if you get an EB or ED (or even EA if they still exist.. 3.9, 3.9 was also in series 1 EB, which My brother thrashed the shit out of one to 400,000km and never had any issues other than a head gasket and dissy worn) if you do a compression test, and it's fine.. i'd consider not changing it.. unless it has worn bearings and other problems. depends on the budget also..
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i don't trust these things much, but for a mad max style ute... probably has to be done.. wonder how much space to the radiator there is ?
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No, not at all. CHI or AFD will work wonders, just wasn't sure of the budget. Looking at around 2 grand each, I reckon. The weight saving over the front wheels makes a difference too.! Change to alloy heads, alloy water pump, alloy intake manifold and radiator, would be close to 50 kilos.
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How to get a 250 Crossflow running out of the car
gerg replied to scottly's topic in 6 Cylinder Tech
Your thermostat controls how hot your engine runs (given that your radiator and fan are up to the job). It doesn't care what kind of fluid is circulating through it. A crossy generally likes between 1/3 and 1/2 on the gauge. 1/4 is a bit cold, sounds like your thermostat might be opening too early, and might need replacing. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk -
Yeah, I've run both the DT66 and the current 351 has a TMeyer jobby, no real difference. The DT66a ran fine with an XF 6cyl radiator, the TMeyer is running cool with a standard XB 3 core. Both with standard fan and spacer with shroud.
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No mate. Not really an issue. You may find your oil is sludgy, under the rocker cover, when you pull it down, as the oil is designed to run at high temp. Change your oil and filter when you get a spare $50. You computer will try to compensate, as Dean said, by thinking the engine is cold, and adding more fuel to richen it up. Temp gauge should be a third to half way up when fully warmed up. If you run without a thermostat, you may actually 'overheat' your engine. (coolant travels too quickly through the radiator, and doesn't have time to cool down, basically)
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Hey guys, while the LandCruiser is in getting paint I've been using a mix of both the ute and wagon to get around, and noticed a concerning thing about the wagon. If I drive to work via the highway (two streets and then straight onto the highway), the temp gauge will climb to one or two bars above half before dropping back down to one bar under, then going back to half. If I go via back roads where the speed limit doesn't exceed 50km/h, it never goes above half. This morning though the gauge went three bars above half, and before I got the chance to pull over it was at hot, before dropping rapidly to two bars above cold, then going back to half. Now to get more confusing it only does this on the first drive of the day. Doesn't do it on the way home from work. I'm thinking the thermostat is stuck/sticking, or is there something else I should be investigating? 250 xflow, injected, unmodified, rad is 3 years old (was brand new), original water pump but was in remarkably good condition when I took it off, hoses are good (bottom one has spring in it), radiator cap was replaced with the radiator. Didn't have a single issue on the recent 4000km mainland trip in 30°+ heat. Plan on replacing the thermostat tomorrow evening.
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So I have just put my new 351 in my car, it has been bored 20tho, I have the thermostat opening at 90, and the temp seems to sit around 100 degrees, is this normal? I have a big Aussie desert coolers radiator with 2fans, the 302 I had before this never went over 90degrees, Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Hi all my 2 cents worth here on this topic. i had my 351 running hot and found a range of things that i was doing wrong. first up car involved in kangaroo hit which required new Radiator and after i got it back the problems started. 1. the arsehole beater put 2nd hand radiater in car (3core) but did not get it cleaned. i believed it was new as it had been painted and refused to believe this was the problem but it was a huge part of thee problem 2. i cut the guts out of thermostat as i felt it wasn't needed in qld (my first clevo and a lack of knowledge) 3. i installed a hi flow alloy water pump. 4. i was failing to tune the engine correctly. i was setting timing at 6 to 8 degrees BTDC at 600 rpm. with auto box when in gear revs drop to 400rpm or a tad less. i now run idle at 850rpm. 5. i fitted BA thermo fans with a davies craig digital controller after all that my clevo will run qtr on temp gauge cruising up and down main st in airlie beach to check out the back packer chicks all day long no temp woes. Finally regards the thermo fans With steel blade fans at 850 rpm (idle) i used an anemometer to measure airflow and got 120 mts per minute. after fitting thermos now getting 240 mts per minute airflow through radiator. to my mind Thermos are a no brainer they work. my temp gauge is under 90d all the time. i can leave sit at idle all day long no temp problems. I am also running MSD atomic Throttle Body fuel injection with controlled timing as well as a MSD 6AL ignition box. this runs sweetly when you get it sorted. Hope ol mate sorted his and maybe my words are of some help Lindsay
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they were readily available when i got one a few years back(made in India though) if you have time.. probably be better to have yours re cored.. was similar cost. the tanks where the pipes were soldered on were flimsy on the Indian one. here's one on ebay for reference, about the same price i paid through a Radiator shop https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HEATER-CORE-SUIT-XF-FORD-FALCON-ZL-FAIRLANE-84-87/174081452261?hash=item28881028e5:g:1bYAAOSwt6Fbqu0i
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Hey if fitting to xd xe xf would the au water neck be better as it faces up like a clevo early style for easy radiator hose fittment as the xr xy style used a different radiator? Sent from my SM-G570Y using Tapatalk
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Yeh has aircon, eventually found the way between the condenser and radiator to access the latch.
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Cheers for the help got the bonnet open by doing as suggested in the comments. *Managed to get a thin rod between the radiator and bumper from underneath and push the lever open. You need to push the bumper out a bit to find the gap.
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Thanks for your responses bear351c how do you check the thermostat on the stove (never done it before) so put it in a pot of boiling water im assuming and what am I looking out for? I havn't checked the timing for when it was set I will look into that Definitely looking for a shroud to put on the thermo aswell The fan is currently sucking through the radiator what is the better option push or pull or is it much over much?
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Thats fine, mate. As long as it's there. In the past, I've run Clevo's with a Dayco (DT66, or something) and a bog standard XF 6 cyl radiator, in an XD, and an XA ute, with no issues. The XF engine bay/bonnet is not the most friendly shape for a Clevo, but the thermo fan should cure that. Make sure you have a shroud around the fan, so ALL the air is being sucked/pushed through the fan opening.
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Gday, pretty sure the FG sump will need to be changed as the deep pan part is rearwards (not 100% on this), the BA/BF barra sump has front pan. which will clear the XF subframe. You also dont need the fancy mounts, you can use the falcon ones from EB/ED upper and bolt them to the lower XF parts You will need the modified sway bar, muscle garage in SA(?) makes them and sell one ebay. You will need to fabricate a transmission mount according the gearbox selected, and the later the box the more mods you may need to do like trans tunnel and shifter location/console etc Depending on what radiator you plan on using the front apron needs a trim to clear the lower radiator hose (using BA/BF radiator), and potentially the RH shock tower will need a notch taken to clear the turbo (depending which setup you use (again check the build threads its all covered). Also check with engineer, pretty sure the power output rating on the barra (lowest KW is the E-gas 156kw) compared to XF EFI crossflow (121KW) is greater than the allowed percentage in some states and will require engineers certification, at which point they will check a whole heap of other stuff for compliance, which may get costly !. (eg/ Victoria is 20% over standard requires VASS). If the cars already rego'd you can run it till you get pulled over I guess (if in VIC without yearly inspections) ! I will be doing my XE shortly, as I have all the bits, just gotta get it rego'd first
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I have a chinesium radiator in mine, runs cooler than it ever did with the old copper/brass. I run EF thermos (factory, not aftermarket) and even when i was running them at half speed before with the old HD 6 cyl rad, I never boiled over in traffic. A 3-core is more than what is required. Increasing the amount of cores above 2 has diminishing returns; each additional core recieves hotter air than the one in front of it. How big is the fan? Have you got it pushing or pulling? Are you running the correct thermostat with the bypass plate? What temp does the thermo cut in at? Mine does just above half. The fan switch is an 82.5 degree VDO screwed into the port on the water pump normally used for the PVS. It triggers a Redarc timer relay set to come on for a 30 second period to stop the fans cycling on and off so rapidly. This has the temp gently cycling by 2 segments on the factory gauge (XE). If you have a decent cam, you will need extra ignition timing at idle. I run probably mid 20s (MSD programmable) but would be equivalent to mid teens on an old vac dizzy. Running factory spec timing on a cammed engine is in effect running way retarded. Sent from my CPH1607 using Tapatalk
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Use a proper Clevo thermostat from T.Meyer engines in the USA (they own the design patent now), Get a shroud. Get a proper radiator. If not over heating when driving along, I doubt it will be timing related.
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Have pulled heater box out can’t find anything online that’s looks anywhere close to what I have pulled out ,most Xw-xy heater boxes online are a complete big square box mine is more off a cylinder funnel box with a short hose connecting to a letter box looking unit with a 45’ angle at one end . The heater core outlet pipe coming out through firewall has broken off and cannot find a way to remove core due to flap door hinge there doesn’t seem any way off removing flap door hinge rod with out destroying it so I can’t remove core to re core it any advice would be great. Maybe a radiator specialist have a way around this
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i wonder if the angle was soldered on after it was inside the heater box? if so, then yes you'll need a radiator mob or skills to do it. hard to know without pics, i haven't seen one for more than 10yrs
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i've never had the oil pump drive stuck in the dizzy on refit, that could be an issue if it's not seated in the pump properly. i'd be removing it asap and seating it in the pump first. i have had to get a screwdriver etc to centralize the pump drive in the hole so the dizzy would go over it.. it's a bit of a pain because it rotates on the gear as it goes in.. i find sort of tapping (lift dissy a bit and dropping it onto the shaft a few times ) usually aligns it in the hex drive. the 5/8 heater hoses won't be an issue if you blanked them off even. crossflows are pretty cool running most of the time anyway in a falcon(good sized radiator and plenty of engine bay space to get the heat out. the water heated manifold simply has coolant coming from the front side of the head, into one port on the manifold and out the rear and back to the water pump(think the water pump return is 3/4 just to be annoying... this hose you can buy as a falcon hose with 3/4 one end and 90 degree bend and steps down to 5/8 the rest of the way. i'd be concerned about the no oil pressure, they have been known to snap that hex drive or chew them out.. especially running very thick oil. fix this asap
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Cooling water hose layout
silverlady@outlook.com.au replied to silverlady@outlook.com.au's topic in Cooling System
Hi Deankdx Thanks for your reply. The engine bay is fairly cramped so photos is relatively impossible. I said its a mid 80`s XF in a 1949 Jaguar. Top hose from thermostat is direct to top radiator . Bottom hose goes to water pump. The small 5/8" fitting on the pump then tee`s off to the top of the 5/8" fitting on the cylinder head and onto the rear end of the inlet manifold. The 5/8" fitting on the front of the engine block at the top goes to the front-side of the inlet manifold. Hope that makes sense. NO heater matrix is fitted. Just need to know that its not going to get hot! Another fault (not long had this car and every thing i touch is flogged out and I`m not a Ford man). The advance /retard was ceased. So removed the dizzy and freed it up. Had a fair bit of trouble re-installed the damn thing and had to fix the oil pump drive into the dizzy to get fitted. It seems to have no oil pressure now! However i have got oil up to the rockers. I`ve also noticed the oil filter is also empty! I`m quite sure i had oil pressure before. Thanks in advance, any help greatly received. Roger -
with the AU engine you'll either need to remove the sump have a piece cut made in it and welded to clear the swaybar. or pay for a tuffmounts swaybar for barra clearance($400 odd) personally, i'd fix the headgasket on the XG by fitting an AU headgasket if the surfaces are not pitted etc i don't think an AU engine would be any different running on dual fuel, a mate of mine fitted an AU engine to his XG using the tuff mounts sway bar, its got all XG manifolds etc on, and was a pain in the ass to convert the belts over(otherwise you need to adapt thermo fans, and radiator hose outlets different sizes also) the AU engine doesn't go ENOUGH different to justify changing to in my opinion. i had this issue with My XG, it turned out to be the IGNITION SWITCH(bit behind the lock assy with the wires coming out. ) these are pinned in(unlike XF etc that have grub screws) depending how handy you are you can replace this yourself. .if not handy, i'd find someone who has done them before(Baywood auto wreckers were reasonably priced to supply and fit but didn't have one when i asked, so i went to pick a part and got My own. and fitted it myself.. https://www.whitepages.com.au/baywood-auto-wreckers-pty-ltd-11461408/bayswater-vic-11461404B )
