Lott

That’s actually not bad looking. Did you have to get them redrilled to fit the hubs

Get the ECU from the car you get the gearbox from as the ECU is paired to the TCM and from what I've heard it's tricky to try and re-pair them.
Shifter is different, not sure if it's compatible or not but they are different.

That's about the extent of my knowledge on it

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you can face the rotor arm anywhere you want.. as long as it lines up with the ignition lead going to number 1 spark plug(when you have tdc compression on number 1) lifting the rocker cover off and checking the rockers are both not moving at all on number 1cyl will be a closer setting(by eye/ear) (fully closed valves ready for ignition to fire)
i set one last week and pointed the rotor to the vac advance vac line .. spark plug post is above it.. run that to number one lead and it was fairly close.. in the tdc position.. 
 
 

Bit of both really, I often read myself to sleep looking at this kind of thing, and luckily there are a few folks out there kindly willing to share pictures of their work.  
I took this on with a general idea of how things should look. However there are things that a camera just can't show, like the transition between the short turn and the port floor, which can only be felt with your finger, kind of like looking for its g-spot lol
 
Give it a go i reckon. Stick to a few rules:
 
* use a decent size compressor
 
* always keep the burr moving
 
* take very small nibbles, not big chunks
 
* repeat exactly the same action for every port. Pretend your arm is a robot on a production line, using your muscle memory.
 
* on a street engine, you only want to smooth, not enlarge. 2Vs are already a bit big for a 302, so going bigger is a step backward.
 
* concentrate on the bowl and short turn. The biggest gains for time invested are made here. Leave the port alone unless you have a whole weekend to spare
 
* it doesnt need to be pretty. If it feels smooth, that's good enough. Your fingertips are your eyes
 
EDIT: also if you have a pressure reg set up in your air line, set it at or below the cut-in pressure of your compressor. The pressure variance between cut-in and cut-out causes big changes to the speed of the die grinder. A reg will keep the pressure (and thus speed) constant.
 
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And early falcon (xk-xp) are 4x114.3

New bracket for spedo cable, now get full throttle. Flipped the lid on air filter still stumbles up high. Must be fuel. I only have the standard mech fuel pump. So next investment fuel pump, reg and lines. Any recomedations.

Ahh..expansion tank...
 

 

 
Custom holder powder coated black. Doubles as a relay block holder for all those pesky OHC related electrical relays. Its physically higher than the cylinder head so the cylinder head fills correctly with water. A positive battery termination from the starter relay is also mounted to the holder so all the positive electrical terminations that were at the front of the car can still be made. Battery is in the boot.

Xh work in the wrong range you need one that matches the dash

I remember that ESP from AFD a couple years ago, was walking around with Dunolly Dave (pro250) when we wondered over to it. Dave and i spoke to the owner. Very nice car, one of my favorites

Springs have arrived. And fitted today. Nice and light. Only given it a quick blast around the block,feels good.

Springs have arrived. And fitted today. Nice and light. Only given it a quick blast around the block,feels good.

Springs have arrived. And fitted today. Nice and light. Only given it a quick blast around the block,feels good.

Springs have arrived. And fitted today. Nice and light. Only given it a quick blast around the block,feels good.

Springs have arrived. And fitted today. Nice and light. Only given it a quick blast around the block,feels good.

Nice idea sly dog, but I need new springs as I broke a main leaf last weekend. Going flex form. See how it goes.
It's not a drag car. I have another one for that.

Nice idea sly dog, but I need new springs as I broke a main leaf last weekend. Going flex form. See how it goes.
It's not a drag car. I have another one for that.

Flex form have got back to me with a price of $625 delivered. But haven't told me what else I need to do to run this set up. Still trying toget as much information as possible. Any info would be great. Thanks

GRA are way better than anything else on the market IMO, had one for 14 years, you need to get it tuned properly (metering rod machined) about once every 4 years, but otherwise you never have to put a spanner on them!  Instant power, impcos i have found can get flat spots and need regular adjsutments to keep them at their optimum.  Go GRA mate, you won't look back.

my 2 cents, try and clean the block up then measure it with a set of verniers if you can, you may find its already been rebuilt.
my biggest concern with a block like that is what the water jackets would be like and how much would be left after acid soaking it.
 
if you want to buy another engine, have a good look around, there is a lot of clevelands around and freight can be organised from interstate.
another option if you are hard pressed would be to buy an engine down here (i know of a bloke who would have plenty), send your 6" rods down here and i can point you in the direction of a very very good machinist.
don't fool yourself into thinking its cheap, id expect to pay 2K to have the block machined, a bottom end balanced and dummy assembly. minimum.
 
pistons etc are all easily available for a 6" rod combo too, ross, diamond, arias, precision intl etc all keep them in stock.
 
you can always collect your parts too then buy a block later on, everything except pistons & bearings that is, but they can just be ordered once you know what sizes you need, cam, heads, intake, carb, exhaust, etc can all be organised before hand.
 
don't get bogged down thinking its too big of a project either, chip away at it and eventually you'll have everything.

One thing to remember Nath is to NOT over cam the engine. Yes you may like the lumpy and grumpy ilde but it will also effect the drivabilitly too. With that block i'd tear it down (keeping everything organised of course) send it off to a reptable machine shop and have them sonic check the bores and magnuflux it for cracks along with the heads and may be the intake if you plan on reusing it, plus the crank and con rods for bends, twist and size. If you have access to a quality dial bore gauge (no.1 tool if your serious about engine building) and quailty micrometers (i recommend mitutoyo) you can mesure them yourself along with the crank journals.
 
 

Fuelline is 3/8". Fitted new pump, checked the timing and backed it off a little ( thanks xcsedan) Runs real good. The standard taco is in need of an upgrade now, it's not keeping up with the revs I think.