2redrovers

If you have the means to put the flange on the edge this would be great. Will give a flatter result at the end. Be aware there is quite a bit of shaping in that area, not just a flat bit of steel. Check the pics in my shop thread of when I made the filler for the green van. I tried to show how much curve is in them.

Il check that out, but I always get sidetracked in your thread haha. So much interesting stuff.

If you have the means to put the flange on the edge this would be great. Will give a flatter result at the end. Be aware there is quite a bit of shaping in that area, not just a flat bit of steel. Check the pics in my shop thread of when I made the filler for the green van. I tried to show how much curve is in them.

Oh and yes it is expensive. But it's quicker and relatively painless. I think if you're careful about it, you should be able to do a four window van with one tube. Glue would be easier to apply to the new panel while it's laying flat on a stand etc then put it in place and clamp. Wear latex type gloves and thoroughly clean the areas on all panels with wax n grease remover.

If you do it properly as per instructions, I know the fusor adhesive is as strong as welded joints and sometimes stronger than typically spot welded panels. There will be no negative impact for using panel bonding techniques. I'd probably glue the panel to the outside skin with about a 15-20 mm overlap. Once fully glued you could carefully shave the stepped edge down to enable it to feather into the rest of the panel with some filler and minimal ridge.

If I was to have a crack at it i'd make the piece up 10-12 mm over size and run a flange tool around the edge of the piece and bring it in from the inside.
would sit pretty much flush with just a small edge to fill on the outside. Your chosen panel bond will probably ooze out and with a bog  applicator smooth it of to fill the gap. Whatever is left is sand and fill with normal filler. What might bite you is if there is a bit of shape in the quarter and it will want to sink a bit. The flanged edge might help or possible make it worse.

If you do it properly as per instructions, I know the fusor adhesive is as strong as welded joints and sometimes stronger than typically spot welded panels. There will be no negative impact for using panel bonding techniques. I'd probably glue the panel to the outside skin with about a 15-20 mm overlap. Once fully glued you could carefully shave the stepped edge down to enable it to feather into the rest of the panel with some filler and minimal ridge.

Oh and yes it is expensive. But it's quicker and relatively painless. I think if you're careful about it, you should be able to do a four window van with one tube. Glue would be easier to apply to the new panel while it's laying flat on a stand etc then put it in place and clamp. Wear latex type gloves and thoroughly clean the areas on all panels with wax n grease remover.

Sika flex isn't a permanent fix for anything. It will eventually dry right through and shrink in the process. It's designed to bond lightweight items that need to move slightly, eg mouldings.
 
My personal choice would be Lord / Fusor adhesive. I've used fusor 112b panel bond to glue roof skins on cars with hail damage. Pretty sure I've also used the fusor 2098 crash durable adhesive. Similar stuff but cartridges use a normal style gun for application like silicone.
 
Both apply to bare metal best, so clean paint off the direct contact area then apply a bead of glue and clamp or screw panels together. Screws could be ground off and filled over. Rivets would also work. Prep and paint as normal.

Sika flex isn't a permanent fix for anything. It will eventually dry right through and shrink in the process. It's designed to bond lightweight items that need to move slightly, eg mouldings.
 
My personal choice would be Lord / Fusor adhesive. I've used fusor 112b panel bond to glue roof skins on cars with hail damage. Pretty sure I've also used the fusor 2098 crash durable adhesive. Similar stuff but cartridges use a normal style gun for application like silicone.
 
Both apply to bare metal best, so clean paint off the direct contact area then apply a bead of glue and clamp or screw panels together. Screws could be ground off and filled over. Rivets would also work. Prep and paint as normal.

Thats what these forums is all about.......
 
Genuine guys, sharing parts, knowledge, and advice on keeping old shit on the roads. Good stuff fellas 

I'm starting to look seriously at making parts for people to buy. Common but currently unavailable sections and patches that may be too complicated for the average diy guy to manage on their own.
 
I'll be making components by hand for the best fit I can possibly achieve. I can't make everything, but if it's feasible, I'll certainly give it a shot. To do this though, I will need to get my hands on a good part to copy.
 
So two questions for you. Firstly, what patches do you want most? Things like inner door corners such as this one for the torana I'm working on

No one currently makes this part so it was a good starting point.
 
Secondly, I need an honest indication of what you would pay for the nominated panel? I'm not going for a "highest bid" scenario, just need to be able to gauge what's financially viable. I'm happy to make anything I can for you guys and I'm sure you can all under for example, that I'm unable to put 20hours into a part if it's only worth $100.
 
So what are you looking for? All suggestions / requests will be considered and price can be negotiated privately if you prefer.

panel is just curved plastic.to fill the tow bar hole..
could be done in metal, a roller might be handy or a beer bottle..

 
 

Not to me, but, I'm a tradesman.  Others may have a different tilt on life. The boot corner pieces for XA,B,C hardtops are available from RS, but not for sedans, same with the boot corners above the tailights, same with rear beaver panels.  As the Hardtop is the most popular car to restore, then RS started making patch panels, but, with the price (and practicality for some) of a 2 door car, a lot of 'family guys' have 2-3 kids and prefer a 4 door.
Also, my personal pref, is the XA / XB sedans look awesome in GS or GT livery.  As coupes become thinner on the ground, and in the panels LMAO, then more sedans will be bought...... just my thoughts.

X series stuff, Rod. !!    XA rear tailight area, XD rear window, front A pillars, XA/B bonnet nose, XA/B/C  plenum area, same torana door piece you just made for XA/B, the sort of stuff that hundreds of owners need. Anything on Dartosmobile, will just about cover it.  No Offence Gerry. 

How about some 260z repair sections next?

Did you mean my p6 coupe? Here, I let the air out of the bags

 
If you meant the p5, I'll have a play with it later and see where I end up.

Got this one finished up. Extended the rear quarters to give it a better balance. Thought it could have one of those continental spare wheel mounts on the rear bumper.

Ditto, I like a Hz tonner but sedans etc do nothin for me.
Yeah it's a modified chevelle with custom bumper treatment.

Got this one finished up. Extended the rear quarters to give it a better balance. Thought it could have one of those continental spare wheel mounts on the rear bumper.

I've been tinkering again...
Rover p6 (Tc variation in the pic I used)

Turned into a 2 door sled using a roof swap from a rover p5 coupe

P5 coupe

I've been tinkering again...
Rover p6 (Tc variation in the pic I used)

Turned into a 2 door sled using a roof swap from a rover p5 coupe

P5 coupe