Hatchy

fit the wheels if thats what you are happy to do(legal, looks, etc )
then do 100kmh with a GPS or similar and note what the speedo reads (it may read 90kmh when doing 100 for eg)
then remove the speedo gear and see what number of teeth are on it.. if it has 19 for egsample(most common for 2.92 diff) you can get a 18tooth gear and fit it, and it will make about close enough from what i have done near 20 years ago..  if its out 2 km or so you can pluck off the needle and reposition it just to make it safer not to speed but thats only if its close otherwise it will throw the rest out.. not sure if the ghia cluster is adjustable(i have one in bits here but cant see any adjustment)
 
failing that, you can get a speedo corrector kit(jaycar do one and some other brands do them also) and wire it in, will be able to get it spot on with one of them from what i hear.

For anyone looking for the wiring harness for the XG, It is a EA-ED wiring harness.
 
http://www.ryda.com.au/Aerpro-AP1692F-Ford-Falcon-EA-ED-Wiring-Harness-p/ap1692f.htm
 
13-pin plug

Step 11, best to use some rubber grommet in the hole the speaker wires go through. The constant opening and closing of the doors will quickly wear through the cables insulation.

What you need: a little patience!
1. soldering iron/solder wire (not necessary) but makes life easier/ could also crimp the wires but i don't recommend it
2. wire strippers/crimpers/pair of pliers (if using pliers make sure you can strip the wires without cutting the wire)
3. wire kit for the amplifier ect
4. test light
5. heat shrink tubing/electrical tape
6. scissors/razor blade (also helps cutting the big stuff)
7. strapping from bunnings (pictured)
8.head unit, amp, speakers
9. tin snips/air hacksaw (not necessary) just makes life easier!
****don't use a grinder for the fact its a tight space and can also set things of fire***
10. philips screw drivers, stubby and another about 6-8", skinny flat blade
11. speaker box's for doors from super cheap (pictured)
12. manuals that came with the audio gear ( these give you the wire specified colours)
13. drill/drill bits
1. a bit of common knowledge 
 
NOTE!!! this is a guide! also the way i did it, not the only way to do it.
 
okay first thing is first you need to run the wires, i put them through this hole.
 

 
 
next thing is to grab the plug that goes to the head unit already in the car and the plug for the new head unit, and with the ignition off grap your test light and test the wires for power,
STEP 1. once diagnosed which wire is the power supply, use the flat skinny blade screw drive and lift the little tab inside the plug and pull the wire out. next you want to cut the little connection off, at this point id mark the wire so that you don't mix the wires up, in my case green for 12v constant power,
 
STEP 2. turn the ignition on to accessory, this will give you the next wire needed. (in my case it was the blue) repeat STEP 1
 
STEP 3. turn your lights on this will give you another wire. repeat STEP 1
 
STEP 4. Strip and solder the corresponding wires (refer to manuals) to the wires that you diagnosed. make sure the thin black wire from amp REM is also soldered to the accessory (makes things easier unless you forgot like me)
 

 
 
 
STEP 5. your going to now find the earth, I plugged my head unit in and found my earth this way it will turn on when earthed
*** Might be another way that could be safer without arcing but it's the way i did it!*** AT MY OWN RISK!!!
 
 
 
STEP 6. once you have got all the wires soldered, your going to cut the big bracket that that holds the head unit out. 
*** I HAVE NOT DONE THIS STEP SO I CANT TELL YOU WHERE TO TO CUT IT***
 
STEP 7. strip and crimp eyelet onto the amp's power supply and cut no more than 18"
 

 
 
Step 8. run the amp power supply through the fire wall and then strip the wire for the fuse tube and mount 
 


 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I might put up how to fix all the rattles to as i found out it has alot of them haha

I'm putting coil overs in to STOP skids but there is no easy bolt in swap of leaves to coil or coil overs that doesn't cost big money.McDonald Bros and RRS do bolts in kits but they cost ALOT.

Have as look at my 'wagon leafs into ute thread' in the suspension  section.  I used EF wagon springs and flipped the lower leaf.  Cost me $18 and about an hour and it brought the ute down nearly two inches.  Unable to comment on ride quality but it would have to be better.  as to load carrying well a wagon can take a fair bit of weight so I think the reduction would not be that huge, provided your not carrying around a tonne regularly - which I'm guessing your not if you want the tyres that close to the guards at static ride height.  Good luck whichever way you go.

Haha true that my little rodeo that i use to drive around was very light in the back end by that i mean i could pick the rear end off the ground by myself and i dont lift weights haha that use to skip around corners

hey people i'm going to be installing my sound system in the xg tomorrow and thought i might chuck some photos up maybe a sought of tutorial. Ive already soldered a few wires up ready for the head unit, but i'll see how i go. What I've bought so far is pioneer 3 channel head unit/blueray/mp3/usb, alpine 2 way speakers, orion 4 channel amp. I've noticed a few people have been asking questions about head unit and that so thought i might give a few pointers, and maybe some more people can chuck some ideas along the way

hey people i'm going to be installing my sound system in the xg tomorrow and thought i might chuck some photos up maybe a sought of tutorial. Ive already soldered a few wires up ready for the head unit, but i'll see how i go. What I've bought so far is pioneer 3 channel head unit/blueray/mp3/usb, alpine 2 way speakers, orion 4 channel amp. I've noticed a few people have been asking questions about head unit and that so thought i might give a few pointers, and maybe some more people can chuck some ideas along the way

thanks scottee i didn't/don't really have time to have a look at lunch times cause those are the times I'm working on my car haha they're in now aswell as all the windows im stoked should be registered by the end of the week 

I think the front channel does have a different piece, since its a bit narrower (i think) the kits i bought have two seperate pieces, one piece narrower than the other for the front i assume.

personally id pull the locking mechanism out see if its sticking in that first, i could be damaged, or try checking the wires with a test light, it sounds like the rod is getting stuck, which will make the thing go ape shit, all comes down to trial and error, worse comes to worse get a new one. have you tryed carsrus for an after market one?
 
 
atleast take the door card off so that way you can see what its doing