Stevemack

I went AN12 on my race car, it runs to 7k though, anything less and oil pressure was dismal.

if you are going to fit an engine oil cooler then look to the modern design ones - not the old tube and fin design, that are no where near efficient.  B&M make a good one with a fan unit in the new design and they are reasonable.  PWR have some great products and are an awesome aussie company - but you will pay good coin.
 
You need to feed the cooler with massive lines 3/4 minimum.  If you don't you will see massive pressure drop.  I fitted an old style cooler, with a sandwich plate - that I heavily massaged as they are a shit casting and don't flow well, and fed it with 1/2inch line (as that was the size of the tube in the cooler)  and I lost 20psi of oil pressure at idle.  hard to believe but as soon as I disconnected everything, bang 20psi back again.
 
I would be spending my coin on a better sump with more capacity before I added and engine oil cooler.  Having said that I am not even sure that is required in a standard application.  Remember FORD tested these engines heavily before they released them all those years back and they would have towed stuff and given them a fair old flogging so you would really having to be doing some serious towing on a standard motor to warrant the fitment of an oil cooler. 
 
In my experience engine oil temp runs so close to water temp it is not funny.  So what can we learn from this.  Keep the water temp under control and the oil will follow suit.
 
But hey if you want to do it - go for it.  just make sure you use quality AN or hydraulic fittings on everything - NO HOSE CLAMPS - as serious engine failure due to rapid oil loss is never fun. 

I have the recoil kits at work, no UNC stuff though, I could get you a 8 x 1.25 threaded insert for nought, from memory the hole size needed is 9.5 or something like that, text me your address if you want one and i'll post one out, easy as piss to put in.  0488723901
IMO heli coils are shit and best not used, once youve used these youll think the same.   Got our kit from Begonia city tools.

Grab one from VPW or Rocket, plenty of sizes, unless you're running higher RPM or towing all the time you shouldn't need one thats very big.

I have the recoil kits at work, no UNC stuff though, I could get you a 8 x 1.25 threaded insert for nought, from memory the hole size needed is 9.5 or something like that, text me your address if you want one and i'll post one out, easy as piss to put in.  0488723901
IMO heli coils are shit and best not used, once youve used these youll think the same.   Got our kit from Begonia city tools.

don't be a skirt  if paints still good go n buy scotch brite ,and prepsol give it a good rub an paint straight over

i didnt have to chase anything i went with my gut feeling and yes it was the coil pack! .

I love the sound of Mad Maxs Yellow interceptor when it comes to idle on the highway.

Ok I'm nowhere near my computer so I can't draw a diagram. Here's the numbers for the changeover relay:
 
30 - ign+ (i.e. coil +)
85 - looped from 30
86 - oil pressure switch
87 - blank
87a - to solenoid trigger
 
So you can see that when the ignition is off, the relay has no supply. Ignition on, it now has supply and is earthed out by the oil switch and powers on, but power goes to 87, which goes nowhere. Start engine, oil switch cuts out, earth is lost so relay output reverts to 87a which powers out to your heavy duty solenoid.

I like the idea of the oil pressure trigger, that way the alternator is guaranteed to be working to charge the battery once the engine has fired.

I've set up our breakdown truck at work to connect the second set only when the engine's running. I've tee'd off the oil pressure light switch to a changeover relay so it powers on when the light goes off. This relay then powers a heavy duty 200A relay to connect the second set of batteries. So simple but very effective. No electronics involved.
 
We've had a bit of trouble with those Redarc relays. The little voltage-sensing module on the side of it can shit itself and not engage the second battery at all, then when you go to use it, it's flat. Also, some of those "smart charge" set ups won't charge a battery from dead flat. I reckon they've tried to be too smart in many ways.
 
Also, if you're going to use the second battery just for 12V devices and not starting engines, get a deep cycle. You can draw them much further down without causing permanent damage. They're not good for jump starting though. A large truck-sized one might start a four-cylinder engine if you're lucky. Lots of capacity but poor cold cranking amps. They hold a charge for a long time too. Just remember to give it a decent charge separately every now and then. They take a slightly higher voltage to charge properly, and will never be completely charged parallel with a standard car battery.

Have a look at red arc .... Damn good value for money

look for this next to you overflow bottle 

Ask Ants, surely hes got some simmons kicking around!  !6's can look good on an XD-F providing they are the "right" rims with good offset.
Don't know what the "right" rims are though sorry dude! lol

he uses anodes on batteries I will look at his setup and get him to jot down what he has done the bolts he did and some parts including gaurds etc turned out awesome it strips panels back to bare metal and the bolts etc in his other setup turns them out like new bolts

look on youtube etc a mate has a bath with batteries etc for stripping old bolts back to like new etc I think he using like bi crab or something also

or you could find a busted old Hilux 4x4 chassis and graft the ford body onto it.  plenty of room for a V8 Too. 

the e series 02 will go straight in the bolt pattern for the bell housing is the same the sump is the same,you might need to chase down your local pirtik man to make you 2 power steering hoses take off the efi inlet manifold and ditch that ,use the electronic dizzy its really easy to wire up ,leave the serpentine belt were it is ,if you delete the aircond you can you a short belt to get around that, the factory headers ford used will go straight in as well
 
make sure you use all the senders from your old motor temp oil etc

A ghosted ford emblem would look cool, either that or FPR racing logo?  Something like that would be cool.

Id be more impressed if I could see the results of the items in this clip a couple of days after they have dried. Also show us removing the paint, scratching it up with a piece of 36 grade paper just to prove "its an actual painting process"
Whats the stuff coming from the spray gun at the beginning of the clip? They painting the water with ???? and why.
 
I see this maybe getting bigger in the future, good for painting custom bikes and what not but right now, I don't think it has a huge market.
 
What prep goes into this?
 
To many questions un answered for a 14 minute vid clip.

So the ratio's are different to out run lions and stuff?

Interesting on the South African thing
 
The single rail we have in our XE was given to me in bits, I had no idea how to put it together so I gave it (in a box) to one of my local mechanics who is supposed to be a guru on them, when I went to pick it up he asked me where I got it, I told him that I believed it was out of an American Mustang, he said that he had never seen the ratios that were in our box before, hmmmm??????
 
And you can't fit the bush into ours, just like the OP

we have been running a single rail in a XE racecar for about 6 years and never had one, bought one, couldn't fit it, threw it in the bin and never worried about it again - just sayin'

there should be a bush that does go there ,maye check out the rare spares web page to try and find the correct part,also if you need the screw in ball bush to hold the stick in there the same as mid 90s, magnas,yup you read it correct

If you want to stay true to the XB theme...log motors are the go unfortunately. The induction side of things lets them down I feel. I'm by no means an engine guru...but feel its probably pointless doing much to an engine with such a compromised cylinder head design. If you were allowing yourself a degree of license....go the 2V head on the pre-cross flow block...it kinda/sorta belongs (on the previous model!). I feel a wee bit of a purist with the older x-series so no crossflows or OHC engines....okay!?! Chucked an XF alloy head in my XA in the late eighties and thought it was the ducks guts...but now feel kinda wierd about doing that sort of thing.... I've got a 2V-250 head...got it tested...needs a full reco but has no cracks....will cost about $1200 to bring it up to scratch - having already spent $300 havng it checked. What's your budget? If you decide on a 2V head...most of 'em are probably good for reco only and will set you back a G after what ever you paid for the purchase price...worth considering how much you're actually willing to spend...