CHESTNUTXE

EZ185 and 187 are Polar and Glacier white respectively I believe.
 
Fleet colour EZ186, will most likely be a white.
It's not a Ford specific colour, but rather from a generic book of fleet colours, for use by any manufacturer.
 

Hey All,
So the instrument cluster in the project XE is of the econo gauge type which i'm not too keen on.  As i've already got SAAS Oil Pressure/Volts/Water Temp external guages mounted, i'm considering 2 options as far as the actual internal cluster goes.
The first is - try and hunt down an original Tach style dash and just swap them over or,
the second is, remove the existing econo gauge and speedo from my existing cluster and replace with aftermarket style guages like this - 
 
what are you thoughts?
My concern with option 2 is the speedo and getting it to work with a C4.  I'm happy to put in the effort required to make it work obviously but not even sure where to start.
 
Let me know what you guys think.
Cheers

dean i blew a hole in my thermo on lpg just like you said from backfire,the black plastic area.

thats a weird one,note large single compliance plate that means its a 72 or xa style car,later xa in 73 started with the 2 smaller compliance plates,also orange rocker covers on a 351 is fuel saver version of the 351,very rare,most where in xb era.not sure about the grills,i would just put the correct one on,and to me it looks like a zf model car with zg bits ?

while reading about the t5 thread before,in rememberd i had an idea of putting a single rail behind this 472 c.i,a shop sells a big block alloy bell to suit top loader or single rail,as its not a race engine,its 100% stock,a 008 351c xc xd xe single rail should be fine imo.

All done,I had to buy a tool to put the oil screen on,and my stand is leaning over,maybe I should take it off ?

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so first off why would you do a t5 conversion? for most people its going to be fuel economy and lower RPM cruising and are not likely to be giving this thing a hard time so a t5 should do the job fine, so why convert a single rail bellhousing and not buy a rod shop bellhousing? well last i looked it was going to cost me almost $900 to my door and that's a lot of fuel money my friends. So if your looking to do this conversation you've probably already done some research but if not, you must use a 6 cylinder  t5 from an xf or whenever they started using them to an el Falcon, au and onwards will need custom tail shaft and shifter won't line up, can't used v8 bellhousing or gearbox it would be way too much trouble, 6 cylinder t5 is almost identical to the single rail.   This is to document my experience with converting from a single rail with a bellhousing that has only been drilled for single rail in an XC falcon with an almost stock cleveland with an EB diff running 3.27 gears currently sitting on about 2800rpm at 100kmph using about 20.5l/per 100km       Ok let's get into it, after you've got your bellhousing/gearbox out first thing you'll need to do to your t5 is turn down the input bearing housing about 1.6mm so it'll fit in the hole, if you don't have access to a lathe a machine shop will make very light work of it and won't cost much at all to get done. i had an empty case to help me work out how to go about it.      Then that's done fit it back to the gearbox and after you've got straight as you can you can start working out where your going to tap your new holes, the two top t5 mounting holes can be used so do them first use a punch to mark the holes (transfer punch would make this easy) and then drill and tap, I used 12x1.75 bolts that come with my T5.       Bolt the gearbox back onto the bellhousing and now you can workout the two bottom mounts, as you can see the bottom t5 mount's are lower then the face of the bellhousing so what I did for the right side is make a mark just above the t5 hole, drilled and tapped it then bolt the gearbox back on and center punched the case from the inside of the bellhousing and then drilled the t5 case, as for the bottom left there is no meat in the bellhousing casting inline with the t5 case so I tapped a hole just beside the case and used a clamp style mount on this side that consists of a spacer that falls just short of the thickness of the case and another plate that overlaps the case making it clamp down when tightened against it, this could also be used on the other side if you don't want to drill the case.       So this should have us sorted for mounting the box to the bellhousing now we'll move onto the cross member, measuring from the face of the box there is about 43mm difference between the two so I used part of the EB cross member and welded it to the back of the cross member about 45mm back (you could use a bit of plate or that ever will pick up the mount,plenty of adjustment no need for it to be perfect just needs to be centre) thinking it would be a great idea to use the square hole but it ended up making it very hard to bolt them together it kinda got stuck between the gearbox and the exhaust headers and I couldn't get it low enough due to the exhaust to get the gearbox mount bolt in the hole. so  I think if this hole was slotted it would go much easier.       So getting the gearbox in the car I bolted the bellhousing on to the engine and made a few attempts to slide the gearbox on, what I ended up doing is cutting the shifter hole in the floor all the way to the back of the hump mine had about an inch of over hang and that had to go so the shifter housing could get high enough, I also found I couldn't have the shifter Bolted to the gearbox and the hole in my shifter hump is too small to out it through the top so I hung it in the hole with a screwdriver and bolted it on the gearbox after it was in the car. And as I said I struggled with getting the cross member on, I almost dropped one of the headers but ended up getting there.       So everything else goes on just like the single rail,. The internet said to fill it with a half and half mix of vmx80 and dex3 ATF and it seems to shift nice, I made a gear stick with the same bend and thread as the single rail and used the knob to make it look like nothing's been changed.        Final thoughts are, first gear is a bit short but not the end of the world gets off the line nicely, it doesn't have as positive feel when shifting but still alright, down shifts much nicer than the single rail, sits on about 2200rpm at 100 in 5th. Will have some fuel economy numbers after a few hundred k's.    Hopefully this helps I've probably missed something but anyway I did my best.        rotio's , i'm told the EL box is the best one to get as its a 'world class' and its a bit stronger. EA T5 1st: 3.50:1 2nd: 2.14:1 3rd: 1.39:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.78:1 EB2-EL T5 (6 cyl) 1st: 3.25:1 2nd: 1.99:1 3rd: 1.29:1 4th: 1.00:1 5th: 0.72:1

Got the balancer on with new key,also timing pointer,man these are a big engine,very similar in size to the 400.

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update

Yeah thanks Jack it's almost done I just put the factory manifold back on it and it fit so good,I tossed the new stamped steel oven tray and put the felpro ones on it with a tad of gasket sealer in the corners and yeah my tiny engine stand is on the limit with this done and it still needs the oil pump and sump on it and its all done I think.

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some more pics

Pistons are in ,chain is on,oil slinger and alloy cover also loosely bolted on for a look ,crank sleeve on,also got sent an incorrect oil drive it's about a inch too short, but overall it's going together as planned

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Awesome.....me likey.

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Got the rear painted and back on the stand and crank in with cam in and 95ft on the mains

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Ok block is cleaned and painted and put the core plug set in tomorrow will drop the crank in and maybe a piston or 2

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Well it could be , problem is evrytime I take a pic on that driveway the camera makes it look x5 worse than it actually is,if in the garage they seem to be fine,interesting thing about scratches I once took a 400 clevo crank to the machine shop to get it milled and he said that big scratch won't affect its performance,he could have easy said ahh yeah m8 $350 to mill it but he didn't and just got the crank linished and it was fine I guess maybe what angle the scratch or scouring is.

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Had my ocd maxing out ! 

I thinks it just run off from the still a bit dirty head bolt holes ,I took that picture about 1 minute after wd40 it and turning it around on the stand.

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Is that a “ gouge “ in no; 1 cylinder ,,? 
 
arround 7 o ‘clock position ,,

Almost correct .. Spot on for the crank counterweights . The D9 blocks are same deck height, the difference is the bores are a bit longer downwards  which in a stroker setup adds a little extra for the piston.  Although in theory that is good , in reality it doesn't really make a huge difference 

Update,I got the block back in better than I thought cond,then spent a few hrs giving it its 2nd final clean,wd it,now wait a few days before painting the block,he fitted the pistons as well,also scored a timing pointer this morning.

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also you cant put a early crank in a 79 onwards block because it will hit the block,later 460 cranks are slightly smaller on the counterweight ,and later blocks from d9te have a little bit taller deck height and is the one to go for if building a stroker,also D6 truck conrods are the same strength as cobra jet rods and im lucky to have a set,and also have better bolts.

also you cant put a early crank in a 79 onwards block because it will hit the block,later 460 cranks are slightly smaller on the counterweight ,and later blocks from d9te have a little bit taller deck height and is the one to go for if building a stroker,also D6 truck conrods are the same strength as cobra jet rods and im lucky to have a set,and also have better bolts.

yes it even has red flags on things you must do on re assembly ,there is a tiny hole in one of the inlet ports that must be plugged and bottom hole on timing cover goes into the water jacket and must use sealer.