xebruce

Rythmic gasket was blown out on the rear cylinder


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Unhooked the battery before I did anything so shouldn’t have blown anything I wouldn’t have thought but who knows will check the air con Monday. Left it at work with the battery unhooked for the weekend. Auto sparky thought it might be the computer because it’s been so use to running like crap the last 6 months?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is your aircon working? I have had a problem like this. Ended up being high- low idle circuit blown in ecu.
If it is... $50 secondhand ecu.... After you check aircon... You need a code reader.... Will save you heaps of time.
 

Either the idle speed motor isn’t plugged in properly and working or you have a vacuum leak. Perhaps a loose vacuum hose for the heater controls?

Ended up buying an XH XR6. Swapped the column shift over from a EL parts car no problems, everything just bolted up. The bench seat has been a bit of a nightmare though. The holes are in the floor for the front mounts are there but no nut on the underside. Rear mounts line up sweet. Modified the front brackets on the seat rails as the bucket seat mounts were about a bit wider. Got the mod done by and engineer for cert purposes. Came back from cert with them wanting to know if the factory mount i have the lap belts bolted to are designed to take the load of 2 belts. Buggered if I know how I'm supposed to find that out. Seat rail mod, lowering, wheel spacers, column conversion and the 20inch rims all good only being held up on this. fml. 

All the original door actuators still working so will check earths for a start. They look like they want to move with the arm rest switch but not enough grunt. But plenty of power if using the remote. They have never worked off the armrest switch as long as I’ve had the car but they have always made the actuators move a little.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Good choice...it may or may not seem to make a big difference but It really is the only way to find where the cam is.The only numbers to worry about are on the degree wheel...forget about whats on the timing chain kit as they serve no purpose at all unless you can prove where your cam is ground and set up.If you can't get it to the exact lift @ TDC specs go past it as this will allow for chain stretch in the future.So if your cam wants 100th @ TDC and you can only get 98 or 102 go for 102.But be warned I have spent up to 6hrs trying to get my cam timing "spot on" before...yes I can get that fussy about it.
 
Good luck and ask questions if you get stuck.

going to get hold of a degree wheel  and do it properly. just had straight up to get it out of my little no power single garage. got it to work today so it can stay there for a bit. watched a couple of youtube vids on how to use them so all going well i'll stay after work tomorrow and get it done.

That'll be $100, thanks........

Hers my 302 xe finally got going

Got my cam, lifters and timing gear on there way. Hopefully get it together next weekend.

Just done up the heads on my 302c no porting or anything just new valves, seats, guides, springs etc.  Don't know anything about cams and need some options. Its got a 570 street avenger carb, performer intake. 2v closed chamber heads. headers with twin pipes two cobys and an H pipe. Going to replace cam, lifters and timing gear. Its got a c4 and the  factory diff it used to be a manual 6cyl efi xe ghia.
Its just a weekend car not an everyday driver, something to put a smile on my face after driving my shitty diesel bighorn all week.

I pulled each lifter out one at a time and inspected them then put them back in the same hole. They all appeared flat and smooth.