wagoon

Been a while since i have put an update up here, I finished off the last season well then sort of missed the mark in the finial shootout, still learning the car.
 
I have now just been fine tuning the little things and trying different things as well. We did a couple of test n tunes in dec & jan trying a new gearbox pickup setup and changed the cam sensors from magnetic pickup to hall effect of coarse i had to make some mounts for them and they are different intake to exhaust side. I also deiced to get rid of the original door trims and make up some alloy sheet versions to replace them because race car and all. That was all done before the start of the new season.
 
I ran a 1/8th mile radial race recently and had wanted to try E85 again in this engine. So to do that I changed out the injectors then its all in the keyboard tell the ecu what injectors you have, what the molar mass of the fuel is and a couple of other fuel settings and the ecu will re-tune the petrol map to suit E85. The car performed about the same which was expected but man E85 burns nice, all the tops of the pistons were cleaned and all the plugs were nice and clean. I deiced to leave it for now though and head back to 98 and run my regular season on it though.
 
We have been fine tuning the cam timing particularly the exhaust cam. When changing the sensors to hall we now have a better signal and have found some gains there. I can't wait for some cooler weather as so far it's about a 10th of a second faster then this time last year!! Also willowbank have changed the et cutoff for the series I run from 11.50 to 10.50 so no dramas trying to slow the car down in winter.
 
check out the facebook page as well
https://www.facebook.com/Jason-Stoodley-Racing-1558367151083789/?notif_t=page_user_activity

 

 

 

 

 
 

Some guys use quick connect fitting's like a air hose and a 2-3ltr tank/can you can leave in the car or install when needed. Same size as a surge tank and maybe sat next to it and always have some petrol in it so you can switch over McEasy man.

Yeah. I've got a very small main tank and the surge. might have to look into something like that. Could always just t off the lift pump and put a quick connect on that. Turn on just the lift to drain the tank, job done. Always a way.
 
Stills need to work out ideal overall inlet length, by horns, make plenum. List goes on and on but I think it's a positive step forward.
 
Be kinda freaky, all this high tech shit in a little old corty. Oh well. Be fun.

I know there are countless threads on diff and handbrake installs so if mods don't think this has anything new happy for it to be removed.
 
I am unsure of the exact e series diff that I have but when comparing it to the ED and EBII diff I have sitting on my shed floor it looks pretty much the same, I was told that this diff is possibly an EF diff. Now the diff install was as per all the threads covered before regarding needing to change one end of the lower trailing arms to suit either the body end if you use E series arms or change diff end bush if using X series arms. I was lucky enough to pickup a full set of virtually brand new nolethane arms ages ago off gumtree for $20 so these are what I used for my trailing arms, these nolethane arms are to suit x series

 
Now with the brake lines I did not buy the "required" brake line adapter as I'm far to cheap for that. What I did was remove all the hard lines, diff breather and flexible line from diff to body from the original XE drum brake diff and I fitted them to the E series diff. The only real drama I had was the hard lines are bent at a 90 degree angle where they go into the drum brakes on the x series diff, but the disc brakes on the e series diff have a straight flexible line coming from the caliper. So I gently straighten the drum brake 90 degree bend till it lined up with the flexible line from the disc, now I wont win any show contests with the sort of "mod" as it doesn't look pretty but I took my time and very gently and very slowly bent the hard line around and it meets up fine.
 
 
Next was sorting out the handbrake cable. I used an EBII handbrake cable which I believe from what I've read the ED cable is the same. So I started hooking up the handbrake cable from the caliper on the passenger side and moving forward all the grommets that fit into the body brackets where exactly the same, every single one fit perfectly into the original brackets on the body with even the clips lining up perfectly(this happened on the drivers side as well) . This pic is a bit fuzzy but you can see how the hard grommet on the cable fits perfectly into the original body bracket (just past the axle stand)

 
 
In this pic you can see the hard plastic grommet once again fitting perfectly in place on the far left of the pic. Now one problem I did encounter was the body bracket which is just to the left of the gearbox was to large and the hard plastic grommet just pulled straight through it when I applied pressure to the cable. Now since these hard plastic grommets are bullet shaped I just placed a steel washer over the end of the plastic grommet so that grommet wouldn't pull through the washer and the washer sits against the flat surface of the body bracket. I have no idea how long this will last but I will keep on eye on it.

 
 
The major problem I had fitting the handbrake cable to the car was that it just wasn't long enough. No matter what I tried I just couldn't stretch the cable far enough to connect the entire system together. So modification time. This pic shows the only things I had to remove from the EBII handbrake cable to make it fit, the pivoting arm. The pin was through one of the holes with the washer on the other side stopping it from coming out. The dome head was sticking through the U shaped cable guide at the top of the pic. All I did was grind the end of the pin so I could remove the washer and pin and separate everything.

 
Then I put the original pivoting arm back in position  and slid the original u Shaped cable guide over the very long thread bar (this is the original undercar adjustment system for original handbrake setup). This original setup was the perfect length to make the e series handbrake fit. I did make up some washer to go onto the long threaded rod, they were not in the original system but I wasn't sure if the e series disc brake handbrake needed more tension applied so just in case I put the washer on.

 
In this pic you can seen the original adjuster in the background and the e series adjuster in the foreground. When I put the original adjuster on there was a heap of slack in the cable so again for safety sake I wound the e series adjust down about a 1/4 of the way on it's thread so that it wasn't near the end and couldn't pull off. I then used the original adjusted to tension the cable properly, or at least what I deem to be properly. I did try pulling on the lever inside the cabin a couple of times and it worked fine, and I just kept adjusting the tension of the cable till I was happy. I will rechcek the tension once the car is back on it's wheel.

 
 
So putting the e series diff and handbrake cable in my car cost me absolutely nothing apart from the cost of the diff and handbrake cable itself. And thanks to Ando76 who gave my the idea of making spacers to suit the trailing arm I didn't have to fit wider bushes to the diff side of the x series trailing arm, so I made them out of stuff I already had and that cost me nothing other than my time.

This one will always be all motor. 13:1 comp not very turbo friendly.

Been nearly an hour since the big announcement hurry up and spill the beans already farking!!!!!

Bolting in your turbo efi setup from the XM instead?

Thanks for all the input guys I ended up going with a Holley Electric Gerotor 125 GPH  , I have a mate who has an XY and he fitted one to it and says it works a treat , some mods are needed to fit the existing tank but went with 1/2" aluminum pipe gonna P clamp it to the chazzie rail and 1/2" braided lines .

Provided the electric pump has an external relief, I would run it over a mechanical pump - all day every day. Why? Because a mechanical pump is a constant drag load on the camshaft as it runs off the fuel pump eccentric. It's method of operation also induces harmonics into the engine, something I try my hardest to eliminate, especially in a crossflow.
 
I have only recently swung around to this way of thinking and this has occurred for a couple of reasons.
 
1. Electric pump tech has come along way and most top line pumps now feature an external relief. What does this mean? It means a significant reduction in pump noise and extended pump life. Why? Because when there is no demand for fuel the excess goes out of the pump (thru the ext. relief) back to tank, instead of being relieved internally. When it is relieved internally it super heats and aerates the fuel. That is bad.
 
2. mechanical fuel pump induced harmonics.
 
3. Reduced load on the camshaft. Yes the fuel pump takes amps to drive, you don't get something for nothing, and there is more load on the alternator, but it's the lesser of to evils.
 
4. I've found a way to make even the cheapest pump relieve externally. The set up the Wagoon is talking about above is my cure.
 
Put simply we reg fuel to the carb at 6.5psi, but the pump is capable of pushing 14psi and wants to do that. When there is no demand the fuel pressure raises until such time as the pump reaches its internal relief setting (14psi) then the unused fuel goes around and around inside the pump.
When we fit the hydraulic check valve (1/2 bar or 7.5psi) between the outboard side of the pump and the regulator, it senses when the fuel pressure goes above the reg setting and returns the excess fuel to tank. Basically eliminating the chance of fuel ever going over the fuel pumps internal relief. In doing that we improve fuel quality and reduce pump noise.
I've used this system on streeters, drag cars, burnout cars and meth speedway cars without issue. Even used cheap shit eBay fuel pumps on methanol with this set up and got 2 years and counting out if the pumps. Take the load off them and they last a damn site longer.
 
So short answer, electric pump with external relief for the win.

Go to your local Pirtek or who ever and ask for a - hydraulic check valve (1/2 bar or 7.5psi)

Can't help with which is better but I'm using the weekend warrior setup Sly mentioned, its an electric fuel pump with fuel reg and a pressure relief valve with return to tank line between fuel pump and pressure reg. The relief is actually attached to the engine side of the fuel pump and sends fuel back to the tank once fuel pressure raises above relief valve pressure rating. Doing it this way I am told it saves the pump as apparently pumps die due to making excessive heat or something like that when they have to constantly use their internal reliefs.
This is the fuel pump and reg combo I'm using (they come together as one "kit")

 
here's a link to their website http://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-25013  One thing I don't understand is why it says its for drag racing applications only?
 
 

Can't help with which is better but I'm using the weekend warrior setup Sly mentioned, its an electric fuel pump with fuel reg and a pressure relief valve with return to tank line between fuel pump and pressure reg. The relief is actually attached to the engine side of the fuel pump and sends fuel back to the tank once fuel pressure raises above relief valve pressure rating. Doing it this way I am told it saves the pump as apparently pumps die due to making excessive heat or something like that when they have to constantly use their internal reliefs.
This is the fuel pump and reg combo I'm using (they come together as one "kit")

 
here's a link to their website http://www.trickflow.com/parts/tfs-25013  One thing I don't understand is why it says its for drag racing applications only?
 
 

Definitely run a fuel pressure reg on either setup as fuel being pushed past the needle and seats can cause it's own tuning issues, mechanical v electronic fuel pumps basically comes down to how much you want to spend and can you put up with the noise of an electronic pump?

A mechanical pump on a performance engine should have a reg too.How ever in most case alot of guys get away with it. Prime example Tony Spazenoski who won this year NAT ASP 6cyl dyno comp ran a mechanical pump on his 265 to supply his webbers. No biggey issue was that @ idle the carbs were copping 5 plus PSI of fuel pressure where as webbers want under 3PSI at most.
 
You could find a HV mechanical pump to push 7-8 PSI which is too much.So back to original question I base the answer on use v's HP.If a daily mechanical with dead head reg if a more performance weekend warrior Id use a electric and return reg set up.
 
P.S Dig the little Windsor and thread moved to Windsor section Interested to see how it goe's on the the dyno.

I will add that if you want a really good setup put ARP rod bolts on standard rods and use the piston that best suits your head, camshaft and compression ratio

Yeah mate you can't mix hydraulic and solid parts. So solid lifters only for solid camshaft but thing like valve springs are universal so to speak as they don't care what camshaft you have they only care the size of the camshaft as you have to match the valve spring to the cam size. Again this is very basic description but the thing that keeps getting repeated which is really important is everything must match each other otherwise you are just wasting your time and money.
With Hydraulic camshafts there are 2 types of lifters to choose from, 1 is standard hydraulic lifter which is for just about every hydraulic camshaft. The 2nd one is called anti pump up which is only needed for the higher end of the hydraulic camshaft range and to be using anti pump up lifters you need to be changing carby and ignition and revving the engine at lot more than standard.
 
Easiest way to decide on what camshaft you buy is:
Are you going to change carby to a bigger one?
Are you going to upgrade to a better ignition?
Are you putting extractor and bigger than standard exhaust on the car?
Is the car Auto or manual? This is important as you are limited more by an Auto than a manual before you have to start upgrading parts in the gearbox
What is the diff ratio of the car? This matters because as you can see on camshaft manufactures websites some camshafts require certain diff gearing to make the camshaft work best.
And the 2 most important questions are
What is the car to be used for?
How much money do you have to spend in the next 6 months on the car? And that's not what you want to spend but what do you actually have to spend on the car

To me the top ring looks to fit a c spanner for adjusting. All coilovers Ive dealt with(on quad bikes) the top nut is the adjuster and the lower nut is the locking nut.

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/5822-diy-catch-can-v20/

Should do a Video of mine one day, sounds quite different with the 6-3-1 extractors and a 2.5 inch exhaust running a single muffler and hotdog on the rear....

'A bit of power' - understatement of the year there Wagoon.....

They did it on the XY GT's.....

Well I've got the fresh engine in and let's say it's not going to be left behind by and Prius shit boxes now. I've only roughly tuned it coz I only have a cheap timing light so can't tell how far advanced my timing is but it seems really happy where I've got it. Just have to get some kms on the clock and get a good tune before I give it too much of a workout.

I have just wired my xe over christmas with msd 6al2. I have the same instructions as you and it does not say anything regarding a fuse. I also got on here and asked the fuse question and went the way Greg suggested, I used a blade type fuse in either a 10 or 15AMP capacity. I then fused the trigger wire going to the dizzy with a 2.5AMP fuse as that's what I had.
 
Judgetread has it right with the way to set the timing. I like to think of the 6al2 programmable as a retard box, you set your dizzy to highest timing you want then use the msd to pull timing out.

Awaiting its partner, the mighty T5
 

 
 
Shortly after I took this photo I realised I couldn't put a half painted engine into the nice fresh bay. So I got some rattle can high temp black and squirtered her, VHT rebuild style. Forgot to take a photo but. Doh!

Started on the tubs today

Also picked up a shifter. Plan is to fit it in the original console.