wagoon

Because your a MAN and that's what men do!!!

Because your a MAN and that's what men do!!!

If you want to do it legit could it not be done by the police? When a car gets stolen and the thieves grind off the engine number the police stamp a new number on the engine block which is then the new ID number for the engine. I know this cause I bought a cleveland engine from a bloke that had his XA GT stolen then recovered. The engine I bought had a police number stamped into in due to old number being ground off, it was all legit and checked with the transport department in my state.

If you want to do it legit could it not be done by the police? When a car gets stolen and the thieves grind off the engine number the police stamp a new number on the engine block which is then the new ID number for the engine. I know this cause I bought a cleveland engine from a bloke that had his XA GT stolen then recovered. The engine I bought had a police number stamped into in due to old number being ground off, it was all legit and checked with the transport department in my state.

If you want to do it legit could it not be done by the police? When a car gets stolen and the thieves grind off the engine number the police stamp a new number on the engine block which is then the new ID number for the engine. I know this cause I bought a cleveland engine from a bloke that had his XA GT stolen then recovered. The engine I bought had a police number stamped into in due to old number being ground off, it was all legit and checked with the transport department in my state.

I apologise for thread mining but I have waited a long time to finally be able to put my car in this thread.

 
 

Only 2years since last post hahaha
That thing sounds tits tho !

I apologise for thread mining but I have waited a long time to finally be able to put my car in this thread.

 
 

I apologise for thread mining but I have waited a long time to finally be able to put my car in this thread.

 
 

I apologise for thread mining but I have waited a long time to finally be able to put my car in this thread.

 
 

Thanks for the advise lads.
 
I just picked up the rotors and pads .
The rotors are R.D.A
The pads are Q.F.M ceramic premium.
 
There wasn't anyone that could get close to the price $ 107 all up , for a cash sale wood duck like me !
Fitting is $50 ,while I get my 10,000 km free tyre rotation done.
 
One brake place wanted $350 to machine 2 x rotors and fit  1 x set of new pads.
 
$157 supply and fit ... No brainer.

I love how you guys stay connected to forums and respond really quickly even when there is months between posts in this thread.
To me this shows real commitment to people and is the main reason I will be using your services/products in an upcoming project once I have a few things fall into place. I cant wait to get started, just wish life would hurry its arse up.

Found this timing chain at work, RRP was $150 or something, was on clearance for $20 so I grabbed it, what are people's thoughts on it?
 

 

 

 

 
Doesn't look like something that would stretch easily...

Thats an original Morse chain. Same style as Clevo, etc.... Designed to be maximum quiet. Will be good if not over revved, last 200,000 easy.
Must be used with original gears that are coated with that brown shellite stuff. Good score for a 20. 

Ok a wee update.
 
I thought I'd do one of those dumb experiments like I always do and blow me down... It worked!
 
I pulled the springs out of the metering rod pistons (like removing and plugging a power valve) and I shit you not, the thing still drives near perfect. Just a slight surge before the secondaries open and a bit flat off idle but otherwise it's like nothing was wrong.
 
This shows how stupid rich they come from factory, in that the cruise jetting is rich enough to accelerate on. The rich step is 52 whereas the lean step is 60, meaning an 8 thou difference in rod diameter.
 
I think these carbs are jetted for an open plenum, cammy engine rather than a stock dual plane manifold and mild-cam one like mine.
 
So I ordered this:
 

 
Gonna be around $135 landed... Ouch! A bit pricey for what you get but I have no other choice. I've just been transferred to another workshop with about 80 km round trip each day so it should pay for itself quickly in fuel savings.
 
 
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Could be pretty old, Powerbond is owned by Dayco now, I didn't see any mention of Dayco in that catalogue.
 
I'd say the OEM ones are made to manufacturer tight tolerances, and Street ones are higher?
 
Street ones also feature etched timing marks on them rather than just a dot.

HB1463N is a standard OEM replacement.
 
The PB1463ST is a "Street" one, should still fit straight up.

Not sounding stupid mate, if you dont ask you wont know.Yeah the smaller the angle in degrees the more concentrated the beam. Be aware as well that the osram lense(call a fish eye lense) helps to concentrate the beam as well

Ok I promised a proper review so here goes:
 
It's been nearly 2 weeks since the install, and I've pretty much worked out its good and bad points.
 
• it's unbeatable bang-for-buck. I landed it here for a shade under $350 AUD. They sell locally (new, not refurbished like mine) starting at $550.
 
• the low end torque is amazing. I thought my annular Holleys were good but this is like fuel injection (no exaggeration). Driving around town, there's absolutely no need to hit the secondaries, the performance is enough at 1/3 throttle.
 
• although they say that refurbs are returned units that are checked and cleaned, mine showed no signs of previous installation (no marks around the stud holes).
 
• installation was piss-easy with exception to some issues that are peculiar to my setup, ie non-standard throttle cable and spread bore adaptor (outlined above in previous post). It fired up and idled by itself with very minor tweaks, just like they said it would.
 
• the secondaries open with a glorious howl just like on an Edelbrock or Quadrajet, and traction is now an issue that wasn't there before
 
• has a single fuel inlet so no dicking around with t-pieces and clamps, custom fuel bars, etc.
 
• Its float bowls are sealed so no longer has that old car aura of fuel smell after you park it. Also the composite body keeps temps down so much less or no percolation from heat soak.
 
• comes with lots of bits to cater for different setups: 3/8", 5/16" and SAE flare fuel fittings, 4x mount studs and nuts, 2 different ball ends or a clevis pin for the throttle cable, air cleaner stud, metal intermediate plate and 2 gaskets... Oh and 2 go-fast stickers
 
Ok now for the few issues that I've had:
 
• the primary throttle is a bit tight and hangs up a tad, but only when the engine's running. I suspect it's an alignment issue that will probably go away as it all beds in. I fitted an extra return spring that's made the accelerator a bit heavy but it works fine.
 
• The secondary air flap was catching on the housing, making it a bit clunky in operation. I noticed the screws that hold it to the shaft were a bit off from the holes, so I loosened them and tweaked the flap to open and close without catching. I suspect this is a new carby that failed QC due to these issues but I really don't mind, it's not an issue for me.
 
• the linkages are all held on with impossibly small circlips. They are so small that you can't feel them on your fingers when removing/replacing. Very scary if you lose one and wonder if it fell down the carby, etc. I made the mistake of changing the pump stroke in the dark on the side of the road and had all sorts of trouble putting it back on. I plan on removing them all and installing wire pin clips that you can at least change without tweezers. Changing rods requires removing the choke linkage right over the top of the carby with one of these clips needing removal. Again, scary.
 
• Changing jets (primary or secondary) involves stripping the carby apart completely. Not so bad if only your primaries need tweaking as there is enough of a selection of rods to tune them without needing to swap jets. Also primary jets are specific to this carby only. Secondaries are standard Holley jets.
 
• if a carby is sold ready to run out of the box, you can guarantee that it's going to be rich, which this one is. Stock rods are 60/52, jets are 78. Rods and jets are in increments of 0.002". On reading other reviews, I think I might go either 2 sizes leaner (bigger) in rods to 64/56, or one rod size up (62/54) and one jet down (76). Rods are about $10US a pair, jets $5.
 
• the secondaries had a pretty bad bog when I first drove it. A 1/2" spanner and a flat screwy is used to adjust the tension in the spring, and you go 1/4 of a turn each time to increase the opening tension. They reckon don't go more than 1 turn tighter than factory but I went 1-1/2 and it's mostly gone now. Even at that, the secondaries still feel a bit lean for my engine, might need a bigger jet.
 
• fuel consumption is pretty shit so far, which goes with being way rich. I also do a lot of short, cold runs which knocks the economy around.
 
Anyway I'll be doing more long country runs in the near future and after I tune the primaries I'll update any progress made.
 
 
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This is what I have setup on my wagon

 
Each light is a 7 inch wide Osram 8 degree spot beam(known as fish eye lens) with 60W power rating, they cost me $50 each off ebay. They are really really good on long straight sections of highway, or if the road is lined with high trees as the beam is quite high and it will shine to the top of the trees. The beam from the light is not suited for use on roads that do have tighter corners as they are really only for long distance coverage which these sound like they might suit. I would estimate that the light show reflectors on guide posts(or reflect animals eyes) et at about 1km and throws actual light for atleast 350-400 metres down the road. I have used very expensive spot lights when I was driving trucks and these things are an absolute bargain compared to the cost of good hella or lightforce spotties. They will never outright compete with the $400-500 per spot light range but they would be at least 75% as good in my opinion.

This is what I have setup on my wagon

 
Each light is a 7 inch wide Osram 8 degree spot beam(known as fish eye lens) with 60W power rating, they cost me $50 each off ebay. They are really really good on long straight sections of highway, or if the road is lined with high trees as the beam is quite high and it will shine to the top of the trees. The beam from the light is not suited for use on roads that do have tighter corners as they are really only for long distance coverage which these sound like they might suit. I would estimate that the light show reflectors on guide posts(or reflect animals eyes) et at about 1km and throws actual light for atleast 350-400 metres down the road. I have used very expensive spot lights when I was driving trucks and these things are an absolute bargain compared to the cost of good hella or lightforce spotties. They will never outright compete with the $400-500 per spot light range but they would be at least 75% as good in my opinion.

This is what I have setup on my wagon

 
Each light is a 7 inch wide Osram 8 degree spot beam(known as fish eye lens) with 60W power rating, they cost me $50 each off ebay. They are really really good on long straight sections of highway, or if the road is lined with high trees as the beam is quite high and it will shine to the top of the trees. The beam from the light is not suited for use on roads that do have tighter corners as they are really only for long distance coverage which these sound like they might suit. I would estimate that the light show reflectors on guide posts(or reflect animals eyes) et at about 1km and throws actual light for atleast 350-400 metres down the road. I have used very expensive spot lights when I was driving trucks and these things are an absolute bargain compared to the cost of good hella or lightforce spotties. They will never outright compete with the $400-500 per spot light range but they would be at least 75% as good in my opinion.

only fit series 1 

I'm just talking about the base model Falcon, which has the same brakes. Not sure if IRS models had slight differences on the rear, but wheel fitment is the same.
 
Need anything for it? I'm about to strip a series 3 Fairmont Ghia V8.

Check out the Bendix website, and see if the part number is the same. Or DBA rotors. etc..