xwroo

You are correct eb11 to au had them, wide selection of ratios if you include r31 skyline and vn to vg commodore

I think from EB2 upwards, if it's a flat flange diff then it's most likely a 28 spline 4 pinion and you get the better brakes as most 9" were drum.
Use the wagon or ute for leaf spring
 
DANA is making a lot of gears for them now, have a look on eBay

Almost every e series falcon has a 4 pin borgey

do you really need a 9" these days if you make less then 600hp? the BW 4 pinion have proven to be quite reliable, unless you make tons of torque and by that i mean more than 400ci making 1.3hp per cube methinks the 4 pinion BW would be a) more economical chew less power c) quieter

I will add , just make sure to get a genuine Eaton one . I think there were cheaper chinese knockoffs getting around a while ago. 

Yep tru track
I use them in both my cars never had an issue
Not cheap but worth the $$$
 
 
Steve
 
 
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Definitely not same car   LOL 

True Trac will do exactly that  I've used many now  

100% agree with the tru track

they mustn't be that good if you've used many of them in the same car haha

http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/6304-what-uni-joint/#entry159922

Yep, just put a 9" in my XD using the same tailshsft that was in my Borg Warner. You just need the uni to fit which is a mix match uni, to suit Borg Warner tailshaft size to 9" diff.
I can give you the part number if you need it. Cheers.

I just put a 9" in my XD, i had to change the uni which was a cross breed bloody thing, 1/2 borgy 1/2 9". I can find the part number for you if needed.
I also had to change the diff to chassis rubber brake line. One was at 90° and one was at 45° to the diff.
I also had to buy new brake lines, the breather tube on my diff was in a different spot to the barg warner so the lines were different lengths, if your diff came with brake lines you might be ok.
 
Is it a disc brake diff or drum?
 
Does it have mounts for the handbrake cable or are they on your leaf spring mounts?
 
Edit** U bolts were interchangeable.

So I bit the bullet and ended up buying a 9" diff. What do I need to change over for the swap tailshaft, uni, u-bolts etc etc???
 
 
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^^^yes thats the size, just checked em

205/65/15

Yep me too , mine are 15×6.5

I have that size on the front, 205/60/15.
 
 
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It is a normal power valve. Mine happens to be a 10.5, but every motor might need something different. The biggest difference is that the original port in the base of the carb that sends the vacuum to the power valve is plugged, and a new port is drilled through the body of the carb, into the power valve chamber. You then run a vacuum line from the new port in the carb, to a vacuum source UNDER the blower. A roots type blower always has vacuum under the carb, which will keep the power valve closed, and can make you go lean under boost. By referencing the vacuum signal under the blower instead of under the carb, it will always open the power valve as soon as the vacuum drops. You can buy carbs already boost referenced, or you can do a web search on how to do it yourself. It's pretty simple to do, and you can do it yourself far cheaper than buying one already referenced.

A little late to the party, but I have one of the 174 blowers on a 302. It was very simple to install. My motor is a 9.0 c.r., cast piston, all factory motor. I welded the slots on the Duraspark mechanical advance up, so the slots are .410". This restricted the mechanical advance to 10 degrees. The springs on the advance are extremely light, allowing full advance by 1500RPM. My initial timing is 18 degrees. Basically, this lets me start the engine without trouble, but as soon as the motor is running, it acts like the distributor is locked at 28 degrees. It has a mechanical secondary 750cfm holley on it, with a boost referenced power valve.
 
And that's it.
 
No plumbing for the intake, no blow through carb,it's still using the mechanical fuel pump, etct. Very simple. It makes a ridiculous amount of torque, and is hella fun on the street. The only problems are, you must use high octane fuel (not race fuel, but not cheap crap, either) and you will have a very hard time finding traction with the torque.

I'm a fan of the roller motor, easy to get parts for etc.
 
The only issue for me in that motor is that it's likely to have the E7 heads which are very limited in performance, but if you are just looking for a reliable cruiser that can still rip a skid it would be fine.
 
The yanks can usually get 260-270hp out of a stock 5.0 which a carb and tuning.

So what I did was buy timing cover, fuel pump eccentric, timing chain, water pump and fuel pump all to suit the older Windsor.

few things to keep in mind..
 
The roller may not have a fuel pump cam installed, and even may not have the slot in the timing cover for the mech fuel pump.
Depending on the setup, water pump rotation could be a issue so make sure you get the all sorted too..
 
Unless its a retro fit roller

Electric or mechanical fuel pump?

cool,i got a new baby too, a xg ute.