Trev Vaa

Found this on youtube today, i see a lot of people crimping incorrectly at work, so i thought for anyone doing their own work at home, might be an idea
 
Simple and informative, and the basic rules go for all crimping.
ALWAYS crimp the copper first and the sheathing second.
 

 

Found this on youtube today, i see a lot of people crimping incorrectly at work, so i thought for anyone doing their own work at home, might be an idea
 
Simple and informative, and the basic rules go for all crimping.
ALWAYS crimp the copper first and the sheathing second.
 

 

Good to hear, be good to see the difference when it's running again

You would think that if there was that much crank case pressure, it would spew out the dipstick????

Ive never been a fan of or used wire stripping tools. Pair of electronics wire cutter is my tool of choice!

Found this on youtube today, i see a lot of people crimping incorrectly at work, so i thought for anyone doing their own work at home, might be an idea
 
Simple and informative, and the basic rules go for all crimping.
ALWAYS crimp the copper first and the sheathing second.
 

 

Found this on youtube today, i see a lot of people crimping incorrectly at work, so i thought for anyone doing their own work at home, might be an idea
 
Simple and informative, and the basic rules go for all crimping.
ALWAYS crimp the copper first and the sheathing second.
 

 

Yeah have done this.  see my old school ute thread.
 
Ts astra pump
 
Wiring is easy, just need a +12V feed which i have coming from the astra alternator.  Don't worry about the blue white diagnostic wire.
 
Main feed for the pump comes from the alternator too.  mounted low in the front part of the bay.  Uses a combination of astra pipes pirtek hose and the old xf lines cut to fit.
 
Don't worry about the gm oil use atf - hesitant to change, pumps are cheap xf steering boxes aren't.
 
Steers well, better than the old saginaw pump but if you twirl the wheel quick at low rpm you can loose pressure fairly easy.  Not a problem in normal driving.  The pump is also lower pressure so will need heavier arms but i prefer more feel in the steering on x series fords.
 
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/477-old-school-ute/page-9

so your holley high volume wont keep up with a standard ford pump is what you are saying?
probably time for a replacement then, either that or make sure you have a 3/8 line pickup and line and not the 5/16 that comes on 6 cyl cars from the factory.
 
heres one
 
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/ford550.html
 
 
heres another he makes
 
http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/ford1100.html
 
ive used one of the 550hp pumps on a customers motor, makes 500hp and never has an issue with fueling.
scott ran a mechanical pump on his 410ci XW also, it was AFD a few years ago and is a project thread here, he was the one who reccomended robbmc pumps to me.

http://www.cvfracing.com/Ford-351C-351M-400-Serpentine-Kit-Power-Steering-p/351c-serpentine-ps.htm

windage tray and trap doors are on my ASR (chaises old one he never used)
 

 
 

 

windage tray and trap doors are on my ASR (chaises old one he never used)
 

 
 

 

Well the ones in post 103 are the most accurate that I have, if the flow bench was correct. Duggans use another type and they have to calculate it and they said flow was still increasing after 600" and flowed 340 cfm at 700". 
 
Im just hating that the car wont be ready this year to have a go at this thing.

windage tray and trap doors are on my ASR (chaises old one he never used)
 

 
 

 

The old cam acted like that anyway so I'm not worried about the idle or the keep it above 2000-2500 factor.

Um sorry I haven't replied - been a bit flat with other stuff.  I oval'd out the oil returns in the centre of the valley and then I ran a die grinder down middle to encourage oil to flow towards them.  I also smoothed out in between the lifter bores and dug small little drains which also fed into the oil return.  If you have a look back around post 76 & 137 I think you will get a better idea. 
 
I gave the oil returns in the head a really big oval out and then made sure that the where they met up with the block was right and then I enlarged the corresponding holes in the block.
 
I also chamfered the oil outlets from filter.  I gave the timing case area a really good going over, removing all the burrs and chamfering the oil returns. 
 
It was all about trying to create a path of least resistance for the oil, working on the theory that oil (like water and air) will always take the path of least resistance. 
 
That's about all I can remember at the moment. 

Ando what are your block mods for the oil? 

A work colleague spins his clevo to 7500 in his stock class race boat and does so for very long periods (bridge to bridge). Never thrown a stock rod even at that rpm

Nah mate none of that stuff for me.  When I say flog it, I really mean drive it HARD.  You know like they are meant to be driven - not hidden away.  As I said at the start of the thread, It will never go over 5500 as I very much doubt it will be making any power past that with the baby hydraulic.
 
I will do one of my own oil pumps and 7.5lt sumps with the Canton windage tray so I am not expecting any oil pressure issues - especially with my block mods. 
 
As to the additional oil line only telling you oil pressure - that's crap.  It is still pressure fed oil - direct from the pump - pumping oil into the system from the rear as well as from the front through the normal method.  My best mate 'pogo' is a hydraulics specialist and is the go to man for hydraulics in NQ.  He has a clevo powered ski boat and he did this mod to his engine after reading about it.  He noticed instantly that the tired old Clevo lost the terrible noises it was making without the line.  That's good enough for me.
 
Plus the block has already been machined and I really don't think it will be necessary in this application.  I may be wrong - time will tell.

from memory 20 & 22. Iron heads what happened to the AFD 2vs you had?

Will ask when I get down there.

Just rereading through, the old cam was dialled in at -2.
 
Now running a Camtech solid roller CT2021 471-108
258/262 @50 .685/.698 lift 108
 
Had the heads shaved to 57cc so my comp is now 11.5.

yeah mate, the newer afd heads have slighty different ports to a cast 2v head.
probably worth going the matched combo plus dave does a combo deal too.

this thread lost all its taste now, it was so good for a while there.

this thread lost all its taste now, it was so good for a while there.