motoSycho

I wouldn't say any old school style will fit, but check out Pacemaker ph4030, tuned length. No good with power steering, but will fit 302W. Or PH4020, tri-Y, ok with power steering. I'm sure you'll find something off the shelf.

Cool.  Sounds like my XP build. Got a 302 (1993? I think) Weiand carby manifold, T5 out of an ED 6 cyl,, and a Watts link from a EL XR6.  Will be following with interest. 
 
 

Hey man, I've done about 300 ks so far, all over the beautiful roads we have out here at Bathurst 😜
Lots of twisty, windy and potholed roads on my way to work. I duck across past Tarana to get to work at Oberon.
 
So much better with the new shocks in it. Handles a lot better and I'm not slamming into the chassis/bumpstops everytime I run over a pebble.
 
So all in all pretty happy with them, especially for the price.

Bloody hell. Trying to buy this AU XR8 ute is a PITA!
So looking at a 98 Fairlane 5.0.
Shouldn't be this hard to give people money.

they need the shock towers notched from memory

5.4 Will be a tight fit, the 3v engine the Fairmonts have is a bit of a sluggish, but slightly smaller than the squad cam 5.4's

Au 5.0's are a pretty nice engine for what they are but the biggest problem is most headers don't fit them due to the gt40p heads au engines have, gt40p's have the spark plug re located compared to other Windsor heads


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That is excellent news! At least I can get wheels on the front to drag it on 👍

The old wheels will physically bolt on, they will just stick out a bit. AU-onwards wheels are a more positive offset (tyre sits in further).

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Fuck me!
 
Ran down to Ingelburn in Sydney from Bathurst early this morning to get that motor out. The heat, the rain and time beat me. I also need some Torx spanners to get the bloody accelerator pedal out!
 
So,,,,,, I bought the rest of the car for an extra $200, and will go back down next week, drag it on to my trailer and bring it home to strip at my leisure!
 
 

Fuck me!
 
Ran down to Ingelburn in Sydney from Bathurst early this morning to get that motor out. The heat, the rain and time beat me. I also need some Torx spanners to get the bloody accelerator pedal out!
 
So,,,,,, I bought the rest of the car for an extra $200, and will go back down next week, drag it on to my trailer and bring it home to strip at my leisure!
 
 

Having done this conversion recently some traps for new players:
 
XG, XH and XF are all different in terms of radiators.  Sizing mounting points are all different.  XG rad mounts do bolt through the rad support into the XF mount holes.  The bottom rad support is miles different.  XG radiators do not have provision for the ubiquitous Eseries overflow bottle. I went and put an EF radiator in mine, had to make custom mounts top and bottom.  Had to space out and modify the receiver dryer to sit forward a bit more and chop quite a bit of steel on the support panel to make it fit.  The E-series radiator is just that much wider.  It also has to be balanced against the location of the coolant overflow bottle too, which on my car was helped by relocating the battery.  Because mine is mounted forward a bit the au hose was just simply chopped down. XG mount plates and regular XF/EA/ED engine mounts are all you need to make it physically fit.  Yes, it will be a bit tight in terms of spacing around the alternator but it will be fine.  Balancer will clear an XF front crossmember too. Regular e series top hose and XG bottom hose.  Be prepared to trim them a little depending on the radiator you use. For air con - crib the fittings TX valve, pipes etc from an XG.  Cut the hoses and mount to an AU metal mount on the compressor. Wiring - largely standard ford colour scheme runs across the XF to AU.  I hid quite a bit of it and ran it back inside the car, across the dash.  Engine loom will largely be easy, but you will need to interface Red switched power feed (ignition switch) Yellow Black Keep Alive Memory (constant 12V) HEGO switched relay - Au's run a 4 wire hego - so sensor 12V, and two grounds run back to the ECU.  12V relay for the heater comes in from the main loom Speedo - white wire will need to feed back to the computer Red black reverse switch back to the main loom (this is the 8 wire plug that normally  carries speedo, rpm, oil etc) RPM (pink blue) Air con  - Run the blue wire from the dash around to the opposite side of the car.  The two wires that run to the low pressure switch need to be connected to the XG TX valve assembly (or you can run the xf stuff with custom piping).  A seperate aircon wire will need to go to the ECU for ac demand. Fan relay controllers. Starter relay - its really complex so I bypassed it and ran the starter wire through to the Au ecu loom.  Au's run the starter wire through the transmission neutral start switch, smart lock, then the ecu which signals the starter relay.  So in effect the ecu doesn't make this call now the motor is switched on in the standard way. If you run the EF hose pipe assembly you will need to modify to fit around the strut tower.  This was made easier for me as I drilled and tapped the strut brace (Castlemaine rod shop brought) to assist. Get the rod ship lower stabiliser bar, life is just so much easier than cutting and shutting sumps. If you can get the au bell housing do it, its not strictly necessary but I managed to find one, to mount the xf t5 on the back of.  (so its got a lower first than a e series t5). Headers will land in a slightly different spot but e series stuff will help you out in a pinch Power steering lines - XG is metric and XF imperial on the fittings.  You will have to swap fittings to adapt to a e series power steering pump.  I used XG hoses and fittings, and swapped the xf fitting onto the pipe.

Well I bought it 😝
 
Bf XR6 motor with all its bits and the pedal setup, $400.
Still in the car, so I got to hear it run.
I'll come back on Sunday and pull it out. 
 

Well I bought it 😝
 
Bf XR6 motor with all its bits and the pedal setup, $400.
Still in the car, so I got to hear it run.
I'll come back on Sunday and pull it out. 
 

Yeah, pretty much sold on the idea of putting a Barra in her. To help fund it, I have a mountain of 250 Crossflow motors and parts I can sell off.
 
You guys are enablers,,,, you know that right? 😋

Well I bought it 😝
 
Bf XR6 motor with all its bits and the pedal setup, $400.
Still in the car, so I got to hear it run.
I'll come back on Sunday and pull it out. 
 

Well I bought it 😝
 
Bf XR6 motor with all its bits and the pedal setup, $400.
Still in the car, so I got to hear it run.
I'll come back on Sunday and pull it out. 
 

Well I bought it 😝
 
Bf XR6 motor with all its bits and the pedal setup, $400.
Still in the car, so I got to hear it run.
I'll come back on Sunday and pull it out. 
 

I've just installed short travel Ultima's front and rear with KFRL-18 and KFFL-01's and it rides great considering the price. No complaints here.

Yep I downloaded all of the CRS videos and will watch them over the weekend. I just watched a Forrest Fabrications video detailing his budget Barra swap into his XF ute. It was good, lots of tips there as well.
 
If I can avoid having to notch the rails to fit a radiator, that would be great!

My mate fitted an EL radiator and fans into XG recently(EF engine), that was a pain in the ass also... i don't know why they didn't use an EA EB radiator in the XG, it would have fitted fine if engineered from the beginning. 

if you watch the series the Castlemaine rodshop did on their XF with turbo barra, pretty sure they used a VL commodore radiator to avoid notching the rail, but had to screw around with radiator hoses. 
I used BA stuff on my XE with a scallop taken from the rail...
 
Ants build thread on his (sleeping with the fish's?)  xe ute is a great blueprint/basis to follow, has good clear pics of the scallop/notch he did, along with the fitting the lower tie bar for the BA/BF radiator
 

I do recall a customer not long ago with a Barra turbo XE and they used a VL or similar radiator now that it's mentioned.

There are a few AU XR6 VCT motors on FB marketplace at the moment, $500-700.
 
But I am wondering if I just give in and join the DarkSide and go the Barra and be done with it. Kinda getting tired of swapping motors. I really wanted to keep my manual, but you said I can use an AU bellhousing and bolt my T5 up.
 
I

There is a few Barra buildups in xd/e ‘s on here ,,
showing radiator to chassis rail notching that’s needed ,, acc pedal mounting , plug n play harness links etc . 
 
I wanted to do a Barra swap into my LTD ,,,
but being a moron with no foresight or foreskin I sold the bastard . Complete numpty . 

And the radiator ,,
so hoses line up