hendrixhc

I was going to say die grinder with small sanding wheels. I also used a drill with small wire brushed and a hand wire brush.

We use RDA rotors at work all the time and never had any dramas with them,i've also used them on my cars and friends cars.Cant say anything bad about there products.

Hope the lord of the manor doesnt mind paint on the pavers!

Good luck Bud. Hope it works out this time round. No bigger arse fuck than having to redo work!

Amen to that. Twice i had my systems installed by professionals.
 
1st time they dropped my head unit and had patched the PCB inside and taped the top cover back on plus the crimp lugged and taped all the connections. All which failed within 4 weeks of the install.
 
2nd time they smacked my rim on my 3 day old WRX on a gutter, and took 3 months to replace it, and failed to tune the system correctly including leaving the 12watt factory speakers connected which caused massive distortion on anything over 1/8 volume.
 
Your better off doing your own install if you can and do it right.

AOD is a US 4 speed auto that there a few over here but not many.We use electronically controlled autos they used the good hyd units...
 
That carb is EXACTLY what mine is and will have to be tuned rich at idle or you need to get the idle circuit tuned to suit your needs.You can get them rather close via tuning the air bleeds and any real shop could sort that for you I'm sure.Thats why the HP based standard DP is better for more cruiser type users straight out of the box.Still the ST HP is years ahead of the new ultras bro and hard to go past for the price. 
 
As for your linkage the box has to be built to handle it's own shifts if not using the kick down.I have never had one on any C4 I have owned but there all shift kitted or full manual C4's.

depends how serious your motor is.... look a choke is always handy, especially when your in a cold area.
 
ive seen motors with 550hp that still have a choke, in saying that i dont use one, two pumps then crank it and hold my foot lightly on the throttle and play with it till it clears out, then hold the revs up before i drive off... of course at 5am my neighbours did not like the idea of me doing that.... especially with an exhaust that was 127db and set off every car alarm as i went past....
 
i prefer the way a double pumper feels on the throttle, i like a mechanical connection between my foot and the engines performance.
as for spreadbore vs squarebore... just depends on the applications and how punchy you like the secondaries.... i like the feeling of a squarebore, i like to get booted up the ass when the secondaries come into play...

best 650 to buy is a double pumper with choke housings machined off ,to start is easy 3x full pumps to the floor ,lift foot off and turn key ,let idle for 5 minutes before driving ,
 
i like the holley 750 centre squirter my self ,but thats another story,lol
 
in the end most manual electric chokes play up better off without one.

Amen to that. Twice i had my systems installed by professionals.
 
1st time they dropped my head unit and had patched the PCB inside and taped the top cover back on plus the crimp lugged and taped all the connections. All which failed within 4 weeks of the install.
 
2nd time they smacked my rim on my 3 day old WRX on a gutter, and took 3 months to replace it, and failed to tune the system correctly including leaving the 12watt factory speakers connected which caused massive distortion on anything over 1/8 volume.
 
Your better off doing your own install if you can and do it right.

You could always use the circuit above and parallel an auto switch with the manual switch. This would allow them to run automatically and if you required them to run for any particular reason you could manually bypass.

If you have any trouble i can prolly get some and send em over to you if you like.

Universal fasteners in Adelaide sell them. You can get alloy or stainless steel. I used M8 stainless ones cause they werent that expensive either. They called speed clips or fast action clips.

Dunno mate. To scared to go in to Elizabeth!

Acrylic base coat wont supply you with a strong gloss finish like a 2pak will off the gun. The clear coat protects the base coaat and gives it depth and allows you to buff it up to a nice shine. It quite amazing what a difference it makes.
 
On the sill you could usee something like Cguard and then top coat it with acrylic. You can get Cguard in black, grey and white.

No real figure on mine Bud. Long as the bastard starts, runs and beats Hyundias off the line ill be happy!

James DO NOT buy the chromed ones....... I guarantee they will leak eventually.
For some bastard reason they warp a little over time and just dont seal properly, have had 2 and they both did it.  Even sanded them flat with the speed file, tightened the bolts till i thought they would snap....... also did one on a belt sander and still end up leaking, dont know what it is but they just do it LOL.
They come with the o-ring and agian ive used the o-ring, not used the o-ring, o-ring with silicone, o-ring with gasket and silicone, just gasket........You get the point
 
Never ever had a problem with the alloy ones
I reckon go alloy and polish it up since your such a gun on the buffer bro!
Just my 2 cents

You can run a temp sender straight into the water pump i actually run two ( one for the in dash gauge that's 50 years old and tells lies and one for the supermarket temp gauge) you will have to enlarge the photo but you can see it in the pic one sender in the block one in the water pump, I've swapped them around couple of time and both locations read within 5° of each other

Acrylic smells fucking fantastic when you are spraying it.
 
Septone products are shit and you will kick yourself if you waste your money and time with it.

No real figure on mine Bud. Long as the bastard starts, runs and beats Hyundias off the line ill be happy!

I am strong believer that anything with Motorspray on the can is crap!