FOMOCOHO

HEI is a electronic,like I need a Bosch HEI coil ring a bell ?
 
TFI uses a Halls Effects DC pickup passing by a reluctor to activate signal passing by a magnet.The HEI in much the same way has a star shaped wheel which offers a much smaller pickup area to trigger the sensor and pass on the signal. The issue with the HEI is the signal starts building before the 2 meet to it's highest value then it tappers off on the back side,plus the HEI wheel is inherently unstable @ higher RPM and suffers form spark scatter terribly. A hall effects sensor like on a TFI or EST dizzy give a fat sine wave on off signal in much more uniform manner which supplies a cleaner logic (5volt) signal.
 
TFI EST both the same dizzy basically and computer controlled where HEI is vac advance electronic as found in earlier xflows. 
 
Q would be able to explain it better I'm sure. 

Good find!
 
The other thing you could have done if you didn't find the socket was to grind the chrome off and weld a tee handle to the end of the nut. The heat from the weld would have helped loosen the nut too!

4150 is the classic 4-barrel Holley, designed for performance aftermarket applications. 4160 is the same basic design but is more emissions/factory oriented, and will be calibrated as such.
 
As already stated the 4160 has no secondary block which means no power valve, emulsion wells, acc pump passage or replaceable jets. Instead they have a simple plate with the main jet sizes drilled into it along with a primitive emulsion tube and idle feed.
 
A 4150 can be DP or vac, but a 4160 is always vac only. The metering plate doesn't allow the acc pump tube to connect to the carby body, thus making all 4160s vac bodies.
 
Either can be Ally body or die cast Zinc, (which is miles better, trust me). Heat soak is a biggerbproblem on ally carbs.
 
My 4160 is a 600 and has a Zinc body, single fuel inlet and fixed side-hung floats. It lists as a factory Ford replacement on an F-series truck and even has a Ford part number stamped next to the Holley list number. It has an emissions type reverse idle screw.
 
The 4160 can be converted to a 4150 simply by installing a meter block on the secondary side and longer fuel transfer tube (if it's a single fuel feed). In anything but a race car, this isn't needed. The beauty of the meter plate is that it eliminates the power valve and idle screws out of the equation, making the secondary side a set-and-forget item.
 
Likewise, on a 4160 the fixed float bowls can be swapped for adjustables and can be converted to dual feed bowls if needed (say for an alcohol carby).
 
By the time you did all that, you could just have bought the carby you wanted, but it demonstrates how brilliant the modular design is, that you could mix and match so many different parts to get the combo you need. You really do need to be scientific about it though.
 
Just keep this in mind:
DP for race
Vac for street
 
Each is calibrated for its intended purpose and when one is used for the opposite role, it needs to be heavily reworked to suit.

You do after you realize it just costs way to much to be a lunatic all the time,also preserving a valid license leads to longer clevo enjoyment

....and the winner of the most weird-ass console (maybe even pointless) goes to this column shift auto XE pov-pak currently on ebay
 
 

 

What people call a 'poverty-pack' console, ie no armrest compartment is actually the console that is fitted to "non-airconditioned vehicles".
 
The 'luxo-pack' with the lid and rear vents is "a console for airconditioned vehicles" according to the bibles.

I think you may be onto something there with the aerostart... but before you do, check the probes on the mass airflow sensor.
 

I think you may be onto something there with the aerostart... but before you do, check the probes on the mass airflow sensor.
 

I think you may be onto something there with the aerostart... but before you do, check the probes on the mass airflow sensor.
 

What people call a 'poverty-pack' console, ie no armrest compartment is actually the console that is fitted to "non-airconditioned vehicles".
 
The 'luxo-pack' with the lid and rear vents is "a console for airconditioned vehicles" according to the bibles.

XD manual consoles have a leather gear boot that is secured from the underside, XE uses a rubber gear boot that has a metal ring rivited to the top side of the console.

What people call a 'poverty-pack' console, ie no armrest compartment is actually the console that is fitted to "non-airconditioned vehicles".
 
The 'luxo-pack' with the lid and rear vents is "a console for airconditioned vehicles" according to the bibles.

Can't be ignition if it runs on gas.
 
Could well be the reg. If there's fuel at the rail and injector pulse it should run since it runs on gas.

Yes Dave. Because I have nothing better to do than scan in, resize and upload 6 million pages.
 
I need to be in the shed, so drip feed it is!
 
But just for you , here's another one which, since we are on the snowflake page... details why our beloved snowie came about in the first place...
 
In the beginning (of this story anyway) was the XD Fairmont ghia wheel which was a carry-over from XC Fairmont GXL (part no. XD 1007 C). However with the revised calipers on disc brake-rear of the XE Fairmont ghia and ZK Fairlane, the old wheel couldn't accomodate the physically larger alloy caliper assembly (through it's full range of movement). An interim fix was to machine the earlier stock of wheels (part no. XE 1007 CD) and mark them accordingly. This led to problems... a whole new wheel was required. So the snowflake was born  , which could accomodate the new calipers (part no. XE 1007 C).
 
Here is a good example of XD ghia wheels (Farkins baby brother, pinched from page1 of farkins project, with thanks to Dave and the whole farkin family!)
 

 
TSB group 3001, article 30, May 1982.
 

 
 
Hope that makes you happy Sparky_Dave  !

keeper of the holy bibles.... thats just gold!!!

So the Volante Alloys wouldn't fit the disc brake rears properly..... interesting!
 
 
 
I and all the other OzFalcon members, THANK you...... oh great knowledgeable one
- keeper of the holy bibles....

Found it...
 
TSB group 3001, article 4, January 1980 (master index is issued Oct.)
 

 
Hope that comes up ok, photobucket has been doing some weird shit to my photos lately!
 
Should be readable anyway... if it doesn't change them all to the same link.
 
Is a bit like Free.51's approach.

Went to Gawler swap meet here in SA last year. Guy had 3 snowflakes, all grubby. 1 was ghia with no gutta rash but shit centre. EA one had the good ghia centre. He had $10 ea on them. I said if you put the good centre on the ghia rim i'll take it for ten. He  agreed.
 
Took it home, threw the centre thru the wash and sat on my arse for two hours with a tube of toothpaste and a toothbrush, this is how it came up:
 

 
Came up a treat
 
Not bad for less than $13 outlay. Didn't want to use anything that would damage the clear coat if it hasn't lifted.
 
I have all the technical service bullitins from back in the day... somewhere around '81 they had a faulty batch of LTD wheels where the clear coat was lifting in the warranty period. I'll see if I can dig it up and either scan it or photo it or type it in here (tommorrow maybe, getting late).
 
It's very comprehensive down to where to get all the chemicals required (here in SA) to firstly remove the old clear coat, clean the wheel and recoat it!

Here's my thread on restoring a set of snowies using water sand blasting and painting the spokes gold. Scroll down to the pics to see:
 
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/1600-K%27archer-Wet-Sand-Blasting%3A-a-review-%28sort-of%29

Ok last post.
 
Complete before and after:

I stripped a set of EA S-pack snowies and they're the same wheel under the silver paint. Same machined surface on the lip and spokes but the paint is so thick that in stock form it looks as-cast.
 
Centre cap changes the look too. Early ones had a continuation of the spoke pattern (ie ESP) but later Ghia and S-pack ones had the "hub nut" looking one. I have them on my XE and looks fine.
 
The rims look very chunky and solid, but I did a little trick and softened the chunkiness of the rim a tad. With the car on stands and running in gear, I got a flapper wheel on my grinder and put a 5 mm chamfer between the rim face and the internal circumference. Visually softens the wheel and makes it look slightly bigger.

Just for you Jack
 

Yeah mate - my very first clevo and I'm loving them.  Don't get me wrong there are areas of improvement for those of us that like to push things beyond their normal design purpose but they are a legendary engine in my eyes. 
 
I grew up watching DJ at Bathurst and I still remember the rumble of GRUNT, my uncle's XE ESP.  As Sly has told me more than once - they have the best note of any V8 - and I tend to agree.
 
No work on the Clevo today but I did clear up a couple of things.  mate came over so with his help I was able to determine the diff ratio.  3.0 and yes it is the original LSD centre.  Score.
 
The other day when I pulled the carb off the inlet manifold I noticed that the 'adapter' (square to spreadbore) was actually just a 1" open spacer.  I checked the holes in the manifold and with my complete lack of knowledge of all things Clevo, I just set it aside for further thought another day.  But it got the better of me today and I noticed that the inlet tract on the manifold was huge - way bigger than the 2v heads.
 
Lucky the mate that came over was a XY-XC Ford tragic and he confirmed straight away that it was a 4v GT inlet manifold.  Now why if was on this engine with 2v heads has me troubled as I, my mate and Pogo had never heard of that combination - ever.  Truly weird shit.
 
My Ford made mate then decided to scrape off the crud on the lower leaf spring plates and there stamped on them was GT.  He also sorted out the rear section of the exhaust - which had been troubling me.  Looks like someone has taken the factory rear mounts and removed them from the inside of the chassis rails and welded them on the outside to get the exhaust to run outboard of the leaf springs. 
 
Easy fix - cut the welds off and bolt them back into the original location - but this may trouble my plans to run resonators at the rear so it looks like Hookers in the factory location and then 2.5 straight out the back.  should make for a nice noise. 
 
Oh I'm getting a little excited. 

What do you mean my door knob Bud?

Also, XEghia snowflakes should be grey where-as XF snowflakes are black in the background bit.
 
My car had the later XF set on when the photo I scanned on my intro page was done.
 
It actually looks better when I put the original set on, it 'softens' the overall appearance.