ando76

Here is my tip.  Modest low to mid lift gains but still slowing at 400-450cfm due to the restriction in inlet track, lack of bowl, short and long turn radius attention. 

Awesome work on this head.  Check out the low to mid lift improvements.  This head takes off like a rocket. Hello roller cam!!!  Interesting to see the gains slow down in the high speed areas but they are still increasing which is a great sign.  This is no doubt caused by the smaller port diameter that these engines demand. 
 
In a street car, with an appropriate hydraulic cam and a decent two barrel manifold the thing would be a weapon and embarrass a lot of big dollar cars.It is a damn near perfect two barrel speedway head IMHO.  It shows the importance of porting to suit the purpose, not just porting for the sake of it. 
 
Your flow figures are near identical to my current E2 speedway head although yours has marginally better high lift figures as my E2 head has no intake runner mods as that was not in the design brief 5 years ago. 
 
This head with a TIGHE 392c on 110 lobe separation to ease the torque in, will be a great 2 barrel speedway package.  It will pull like a 14 year old from 2400 to about 5800 and then it will just be making noise, but sweet noise none the less.   His cam sounds close to 392c specs in lift and advertised duration but the centreline sounds a bit tight. 
 
Tell the owner to hold on as this thing will be a torque monster.  Well done.  Is this an alcohol motor?

14" x 3" minimum and a k&n stub stack and extreme top filter for the win.

14" x 3" minimum and a k&n stub stack and extreme top filter for the win.

202 cfm through a stock valve size is impressive.  I bet the low lift figures are well and truly up there.  If you have a set of internal calipers have a bit of a feel around in the inlet track.  There is a choke down in there which reduces cross sectional area. 
What valve seat cut do you have and have you back cut your valves?  Are the valves 'narrow necks'?
Have you thought about tapering the inlet valve guide boss protrusion?  I'll bet my lefty that there is another small gain in that little gem.
 
Good to see the 6cfm gain from shortening the throttle butterfly screws.  I always knew they were a restriction but to have it quantified gives me a warm inner glow.  Yes I need to get out more. 
 
Keep up the good work and photos.  I know at times it is a pain to take the photos and stuff as you are working but I, and probably a hell of a lot of others, appreciate the detail.

Another one converted to the virtues of a programmable ignition which provides good spark.  Wait till you get a curve into it and then you will discover the true power of that little box. 
Why anyone would play with dizzy weights anymore is beyond me and the same could be said of locked timing IMHO, but each to their own I suppose.  My old man always said "there is more than one way to skin at cat" but I like to add to that by saying "Yeah but I prefer to do it with the sharpest knife."
Keep us informed of your progress please.

Another one converted to the virtues of a programmable ignition which provides good spark.  Wait till you get a curve into it and then you will discover the true power of that little box. 
Why anyone would play with dizzy weights anymore is beyond me and the same could be said of locked timing IMHO, but each to their own I suppose.  My old man always said "there is more than one way to skin at cat" but I like to add to that by saying "Yeah but I prefer to do it with the sharpest knife."
Keep us informed of your progress please.

C2 Head chamber with laid back inlet swirl. (D,C2A are the same)

 
Note how the chamber shaping goes all the way to the head gasket face.
 
C1(C1A) Head chamber with laid back inlet swirl and reduced sharp point where exhaust and inlet meet.
 

 
Similar to C2 but note how the chamber shaping stops short of the head gasket face.
 
I believe that these heads have the best inlet flow potential and best initial chamber shape. With additional shaping on the opposite side to raised inlet swirl area and a bigger valve I reckon low lift flow figures would go through the roof. Cam and I are playing with this idea on my new speedway head.
 
I'll get an E1 snap and then an unmarked head and we have pretty much got them all covered.

C2 Head chamber with laid back inlet swirl. (D,C2A are the same)

 
Note how the chamber shaping goes all the way to the head gasket face.
 
C1(C1A) Head chamber with laid back inlet swirl and reduced sharp point where exhaust and inlet meet.
 

 
Similar to C2 but note how the chamber shaping stops short of the head gasket face.
 
I believe that these heads have the best inlet flow potential and best initial chamber shape. With additional shaping on the opposite side to raised inlet swirl area and a bigger valve I reckon low lift flow figures would go through the roof. Cam and I are playing with this idea on my new speedway head.
 
I'll get an E1 snap and then an unmarked head and we have pretty much got them all covered.

I've got an E1 head in my shed in town.  I'll grab a chamber shot when I'm in there next. 
 
I have a cylinder here at home that has a chamber like I have never seen before.  It came off a HM Gem engine and the casting number had been ground.  It sort of looks like a C1 but with less of a rise.  I'll clean up the chamber when I have time and post a pic.  It is truly weird.
 
Since I have all the head castings I should really take pictures of each chamber and post them up.  Hmm time.....

I've got an E1 head in my shed in town.  I'll grab a chamber shot when I'm in there next. 
 
I have a cylinder here at home that has a chamber like I have never seen before.  It came off a HM Gem engine and the casting number had been ground.  It sort of looks like a C1 but with less of a rise.  I'll clean up the chamber when I have time and post a pic.  It is truly weird.
 
Since I have all the head castings I should really take pictures of each chamber and post them up.  Hmm time.....

I'm sure the E2 has a larger inlet valve than the C1 or the C2. I have achieved good flow numbers out of the E2 but as mentioned it does have a more open chamber. It really depends on what you are chasing and what comp ratio you want. I am fan of the C1 as I got one to flow within 4cfm of my E2 and that was with a few basic mods and a crappy single seat cut.
 
As Sly has mentioned the C2 and C1 both require chamber mods in high comp and high performance use as the sharp point where the inlet and exhaust swirl creates a big hot spot.

Always the simple things that get us, Tee hee.
 
Gee that's puss spring rates - no wonder they bend pushrods - did someone say valve float.....

Definitely not. I don't attack anyone personally, and certainly not by a forum post - its just not my style.  I'm sorry if I offended you.  I was just trying to prove the fact that I (like you) have done this conversion and these are the issues I came across.  
 
Yes some of the issues I created by wanting to run an engine driven fan.  As I said above, when I did the conversion thermo fans were not as efficient as they are now and because of where I live I needed an engine driven fan.  I still believe engine driven fans are good on these old girls as it fits in with the era, but each to there own. 
 
I'm going to try thermos on my turbo x-flow sedan delivery as I believe it fits with the technology being used with that engine in that application. 
 
I ran the photo of the engine driven fan because I thought you said it was impossible, but I knew it could be done and was offering the author of the thread proof that it could be done. 
 
Once again mate, sorry if I offended you, it certainly was not my intention.  I offer my thoughts, experience and pictures of my cars on this site so we can all learn from each others experience. 

The x-member will be a problem - remember I have done this conversion.  The 170-200 cu in motors are completely different to 221-250.  The sump is way bigger on the later model engines.  Here is a photo of the engine bay of my squire wagon just to prove I'm no keyboard expert and the second photo is of me and my wife at Summernats.  If you read my display board you will see my name on it, just to prove I actually own the car.   
 

 

 
I didn't modify the x member on mine.  Instead I spent what seemed like one hundred hours modifying the sump for clearance around the x-member.  Having done it that way I would never do it again as modifying the x member is so much simpler and really more effective than having a lump in the sump.  But you choose your way, but trust me you will have issues.
 
Fitting an engine driven fan is not impossible.  I know as mine runs one, but out of the 400 hundred photos I have of the woody, none show the engine driven fan so I will go into the shed today and take a photo of the bay from the side just to prove it is not impossible.  You just need to follow the steps I outlined above, or not, your choice.  I wanted an engine driven fan as I live in Cairns and it gets bloody hot up here. 
 
 
 
 
 

google plug reading.  NGK and that have some good pictures to compare yours to.  But as Sly said the best plug reads are done with an instant shut off after a loaded high rpm situation. Ideally this should be done with new, correctly gapped plugs installed for each change in timing, addition of fuel or change in heat range.   Easy to do on the race track - not so on the street unless you find somewhere safe. 
As for reading methanol plugs - well that's a whole other ball game.  same for E85. 
But I guess your talking about a street engine.  With the advent of O2 sensors and wideband gauges plug reading has become a bit of a thing of the past - but I believe that using both technology and what you see with your eyes and smell with your nose is the best way.  Yes I sniff methanol plugs.  Yes I am weird but there is a very valid reason why I do it.   

The x-member will be a problem - remember I have done this conversion.  The 170-200 cu in motors are completely different to 221-250.  The sump is way bigger on the later model engines.  Here is a photo of the engine bay of my squire wagon just to prove I'm no keyboard expert and the second photo is of me and my wife at Summernats.  If you read my display board you will see my name on it, just to prove I actually own the car.   
 

 

 
I didn't modify the x member on mine.  Instead I spent what seemed like one hundred hours modifying the sump for clearance around the x-member.  Having done it that way I would never do it again as modifying the x member is so much simpler and really more effective than having a lump in the sump.  But you choose your way, but trust me you will have issues.
 
Fitting an engine driven fan is not impossible.  I know as mine runs one, but out of the 400 hundred photos I have of the woody, none show the engine driven fan so I will go into the shed today and take a photo of the bay from the side just to prove it is not impossible.  You just need to follow the steps I outlined above, or not, your choice.  I wanted an engine driven fan as I live in Cairns and it gets bloody hot up here. 
 
 
 
 
 

Spot on clevo. Also reduces load on the oil pump which in turn reduces load on the cam.  Clever dude the fella that built that engine.  He can adjust the pressure without removing the sump due to mods he had made around the relief core area which allows him to wind pressure in and out thru an access hole in the sump.  Like I said, very clever man.

pre-crossflow 250 into xm. 
 
1. Have to modify front x member for sump clearance.  Cut an inch out of it and weld in flat plate.
2. Lower front sway bar mount with 10mm aluminium spacer again for sump clearance.
3. Use XL engine mount lowers as these are easy to notch out to get the engine back far enough so that you can run an engine driven fan.
4. Use XM-XP top engine mounts but they will only pick up two of the three mounting holes in the block.
5. Ditch the idea of running a 2 speed fordomatic.  They suck.  C4 and buy x member from Castlemaine rod shop or mod XY x member. 
6. Slot x member mounts to allow gear box to go back as far as possible. 
7. Get a three core radiator cause they will over heat without one.  If you are not worried about originality cut the radiator support out and fit a
    bigger radiator - you will need it. 
8. buy a good starter blanket - you will kill starters without one.
9. As for cam - I just rang CROW and said I want a hydraulic cam with good lump at idle and good torque.  Can't remember the grind but it was spot on.
10.  Be ready to pull the engine and gearbox out 20 times, you will, trust me.
 
Um if I think of anything else i'll let you know.  Will dig through my squire photos to show my completed installation. 

Spot on clevo. Also reduces load on the oil pump which in turn reduces load on the cam.  Clever dude the fella that built that engine.  He can adjust the pressure without removing the sump due to mods he had made around the relief core area which allows him to wind pressure in and out thru an access hole in the sump.  Like I said, very clever man.

Yes a high volume pump will empty that sump in a heart beat and leave all the oil in the top end.  Until you have had a standard pump on a hydraulic test bench you just can't understand the quantity of oil that they are capable of pushing. 
 
Flat to the boards in top gear would be up there in the revs I imagine and your HV pump is more than capable of emptying the sump, add in a left hand bend to 'flat to the boards in top' and you will most certainly make a very big hole in the block. 
 
The problem with the standard pump (in the standard form) is that they are just to efficient and continually relieve internally, which stresses the oil.  This is a real problem on fresh engines with good bearing tolerances as the pump is continually relieving.
 
To understand the functioning of the oil pump you have to think what it was originally designed for.  FORD built these motors knowing they were going to be used in taxis and other high milage applications.  Basically they were built to last.  This means they had to design a pump that would flow enough oil even when the bearings were getting real sad.  This is why you can have an engine with bearings to the copper and still see 45-50psi in oil pressure.  I just pulled an engine down that was exactly like this, down to the copper on the big ends and still showing 50psi at idle.  In order to achieve this they made a pump that would work when the engine was fresh (continually relieving internally) and when the engine was worn (not so much oil passing over the relief). 
 
Then someone comes along and makes a high volume pump for one???? Why???Because other engines don't have such an efficient oil pump and they need a high volume pump to make them last.  So the Ford X-Flow must need one too, so we will make one of those and flog off a few cause a high volume pump just has to be better!!  Wrong in the x flow application I can assure you. 
 
If you want your block to stay as one nice piece of cast iron, don't rev the thing (in any gear) until you pull that high volume pump off and get a bigger sump. I know this as I have spent hours on a Hydraulics test bench mucking around with oil pumps.  Why - because I'm a freak and I had an oil pressure issue once and I was determined to get on top of it so I spent way too much time analysing the oiling system of these motors.
 
Rant over - Yes I am a little precious about oil pumps - 95% of engine failures are oil related in my experience.

I made this for my modified so that I can change rear role centre.  Since this photo I have added another two holes, one on top, one on the bottom.
 

 
 
Not sure if this is what you are talking about but.  sounds like you want  different length arms to correct an alignment issue???

I know of a roller-camed x-flow race motor up here that has a standard volume oil pump in it with 1/3rd machined off the standard oil pump gears!!!!!!
 
This motor is in its 6th season without a rebuild and won the club championship last year. Enough said!!
 
Yes I scare myself sometimes too, so you are not alone.....

I am going through this process atm as a result of killing the c4 in my burnout ute. I have just ordered the TCI SUPER PRO rebuild kit thru summit racing ($250US). This kit is the same kit that they use in there fully assembled streetfighter trans which are good for 350-400hp and include clutches, bands, springs and pump bushes, seals and a shift kit. Great value IMHO.
I already have a transgo shift kit in my valve body so I will not be using the shift kit option and I have re-bushed my pump already but for the money I could not go past this kit as it suits my application, i.e. up to 400hp.
Yes four pinion planetry gears and billet servo's would be nice, look good and have that wank factor but if they don't use them in their kits that are tailored up to 400hp then why would I need them? I'm lucky in that my mechanic mate did his time on autos so I'm just up for beer money (and he can drink) for the assembly. After watching him do the valve body mods I can tell you that you have to know your shit to play with bloody autos and you need a very big and super clean work bench, and everything you do on them takes more time (labour) then you can imagine. In other words the parts are cheap but the labour will kill you.
Good luck whichever way you go.
 
Oh and I ordered one of their deep, finned aluminium pans and a B&M trans temp gauge while I was at it. I don't think my failure was heat related but it was cheap insurance. $130 for the pan and $50 for the gauge.

Yes a high volume pump will empty that sump in a heart beat and leave all the oil in the top end.  Until you have had a standard pump on a hydraulic test bench you just can't understand the quantity of oil that they are capable of pushing. 
 
Flat to the boards in top gear would be up there in the revs I imagine and your HV pump is more than capable of emptying the sump, add in a left hand bend to 'flat to the boards in top' and you will most certainly make a very big hole in the block. 
 
The problem with the standard pump (in the standard form) is that they are just to efficient and continually relieve internally, which stresses the oil.  This is a real problem on fresh engines with good bearing tolerances as the pump is continually relieving.
 
To understand the functioning of the oil pump you have to think what it was originally designed for.  FORD built these motors knowing they were going to be used in taxis and other high milage applications.  Basically they were built to last.  This means they had to design a pump that would flow enough oil even when the bearings were getting real sad.  This is why you can have an engine with bearings to the copper and still see 45-50psi in oil pressure.  I just pulled an engine down that was exactly like this, down to the copper on the big ends and still showing 50psi at idle.  In order to achieve this they made a pump that would work when the engine was fresh (continually relieving internally) and when the engine was worn (not so much oil passing over the relief). 
 
Then someone comes along and makes a high volume pump for one???? Why???Because other engines don't have such an efficient oil pump and they need a high volume pump to make them last.  So the Ford X-Flow must need one too, so we will make one of those and flog off a few cause a high volume pump just has to be better!!  Wrong in the x flow application I can assure you. 
 
If you want your block to stay as one nice piece of cast iron, don't rev the thing (in any gear) until you pull that high volume pump off and get a bigger sump. I know this as I have spent hours on a Hydraulics test bench mucking around with oil pumps.  Why - because I'm a freak and I had an oil pressure issue once and I was determined to get on top of it so I spent way too much time analysing the oiling system of these motors.
 
Rant over - Yes I am a little precious about oil pumps - 95% of engine failures are oil related in my experience.