bear351c

Need to get this put on properly as I fkd 1 already,stainless bolt set from USA is great and ya always have leftovers for some reason

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Yep. so you did...  
 
At least I have pants on today. Remembered this morning.

What thermostat do they use on the 400.?? Can't see the brass restrictor plate...

Looking smooth

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Let's get that 400 to the machine shop

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Timing cover looks good, who made that thing.??? 400 same as 302/351..?

Also new timing cover ,not bad for $125 quality looks good

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Oh......and the Nugget has new wheels. 
 
 

These work well, (with air in the cylinder)
 
 

Just a word of caution, XR-XE clevo extractors is a bit sketchy.....
 
XY slightly different to XD.
Manual steering.
FMX trans, etc, etc. 
 
You may have to 'modify' the extractor tubes. Pacemakers are notorious for not quite right fitment. Good pipes, Aussie made, but not direct fit. 

Just a word of caution, XR-XE clevo extractors is a bit sketchy.....
 
XY slightly different to XD.
Manual steering.
FMX trans, etc, etc. 
 
You may have to 'modify' the extractor tubes. Pacemakers are notorious for not quite right fitment. Good pipes, Aussie made, but not direct fit. 

Are you kidding? I can't believe they don't have a shock absorber on that design. That would have some really terrible harmonics, which I imagine would require a balance shaft, and kids we all know that balance shafts make baby Jesus cry

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Sorry, my basic math is wrong there. Difference in diameter is halved to get the throw increase, so basically you halve it, then double it to get stroke.

So:
Journal diameters:
2.311-2.100 = 0.211 difference

Difference in pin centreline (throw)
0.211/2 = 0.1055

Difference in stroke:
0.1055 X 2 = 0.211

Total stroke:
0.211 + 4 = 4.211"

So on a standard bore 400 with an offset ground 400 crank, the maximum theoretical displacement would be 423 ci

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Yeah, fair enough. Not knocking the guy's intelligence or knowledge, he is a Guru.....  I just have a short attention sp..  Look, a squirrel. 🐿️

I'LL TAKE IT...!!
 

I'LL TAKE IT...!!
 

Yep, he's the worst...... So knowledgeable , but so hard to listen to. 

Yeah, I've learnt heaps from the Interknob.  Uncle Tonys, Luke (Thunderhead289), Muscle car solutions, all have interesting videos, once you trawl through the garbage while they try to entertain you. Good vids on the Rockys Roadshow channel, full rebuild of TQ and Rochester carbs, but MAN.!  he drags it out..

Agree with all thats been said.  A good paint supplier can put GOOD quality paint, any colour/brand into an aerosol can. 

Good stuff, mate.   Carbies are a dying art.

First drive impressions: pretty good for an old dunga. My dad brain made the mistake of buying 57s jets... The ones that came in it were 57s too. In any case, it surged on light throttle so that told me that 57s are lean. So, I swapped in some 59s I had.

The secondaries were also way lean at 67 (wrong on a non-power valve block) so went right up to an 89 drill on some jets I didn't want. Apparently 87 is the correct secondary jet for this carby, so not far off. If it had a power valve in the secondary, you would subtract 8-10 jet sizes to get the right mixture under load.

I don't see the point in running a power valve in the secondary, you're always under power whenever they're open, so the power valve will always be open under load or closed when the secondaries are shut. Blanking it off and jetting up to compensate is the go I reckon. Less failure points to worry about.

Just got back from a test n tune, it has woken her up a bit, feels more lively than the street demon, but has sacrificed a little bit of bottom end torque and smoothness (probably from having older design boosters).

You can still feel a little bit of leanness when accelerating moderately, in that once the pump shot is done, the power drops off a tad. Still might need more jet but I'm happy with the WOT performance.

Now to see if it guzzles the juice or is somehow actually better than the street demon.

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Agreed. Do it once and forget about it.

Go for it. rub the rust back and prime it and then spray out the whole bay.
 
Dont waste time filling holes or smoothing unless you are going for a show car. Its amazing how much different a clean bay looks.
 
Id just use some 80 grit on an orby or a 120 grit flappy disk on a grinder to clean up that rust and spray it out.

You'll be happy with a warmed over Clevo. Don't overthink it, just carb, cam, inlet manifold, ignition and extractors.
 
Don't rev her over 5 grand, last for years and enough torque to pull a house. If you want to go racing.......well, that's a WHOLE different Cleveland.

Probably cost... They're about 5 times the price of your regular power valve but also people have just broadly accepted that you can't get economy out of a Holley, so don't bother chasing it. They aren't recommended on performance carbys, so I wouldn't use one on anything bigger than say a 600 square.

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