gerg

I have 1 7/8'' to 3 1/2'' 4into1 Proflow headers & have decent clearance to starter motor, but did add a heat fabric type heat shield just incase.

I have B&M pan & aeroflow braided flexable dipstick on my C4 (pan fill/C10), I added a male to male fitting into the pan, then a female to female 90° fitting, then B&M dipstick adapter, then aeroflow dipstick. Standard pan & dipstick 'just' cleared my extractors, but also know @clevocortina copied my setup for his XD as he had clearance issues,

Yeah like Dean said, verify with a separate gauge (a simple compressor gauge that goes to 200psi will work) that bullshit in doesn't equal bullshit out before stripping the engine, could be a dud sender as well. If you had it apart and the bearings (main, rod and cam) all looked ok, then oil pressure should be well within specs.

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

is that an XF GHIA CLUSTER? 
if so, it may be the common issue those clusters can have.
 
before panicking about the pressure, fit an external oil gauge to be sure.. if that confirms the cluster is dodgy,  you can dismantle the cluster and the 3 stacked circuit boards that are stacked on long pins(the pins go though the boards) you only need to move those boards less than 1mm and it will clean/scrape the tarnish off the connections.

i never trust those clusters or the S pack ones, i've had 20 or so over 20yrs and i think only 3 of them didn't have issues relating to temp, battery, fuel or oil pressure flashing issues without actually having an issue.

Here we go
 


Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

My extractors are Tri-Y, so have a bit more clearance than a set of full tuned. Even at that, space is tight and steering box swaps are a pain ( jack engine off its mounts, etc). Starter motor clearance isnt a huge issue for me, I just went with a later 6-Cyl Bosch type as they're cheaper than the old heavy direct drive and are an easy fit with a small body. You need to watch drag link and Pitman Arm clearance to the solenoid terminal as the solenoid now points down at near 6 o'clock. 
The mods are simple. Just drill out the 8mm bolt holes to 3/8” and remove about 10mm of the casting on the pinion snout support on the lower edge, to clear the ring gear. I had a thread on the whole DIY process with pics but can't remember what section it's buried in.
 
Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
 
 
 

My extractors are Tri-Y, so have a bit more clearance than a set of full tuned. Even at that, space is tight and steering box swaps are a pain ( jack engine off its mounts, etc). Starter motor clearance isnt a huge issue for me, I just went with a later 6-Cyl Bosch type as they're cheaper than the old heavy direct drive and are an easy fit with a small body. You need to watch drag link and Pitman Arm clearance to the solenoid terminal as the solenoid now points down at near 6 o'clock. 
The mods are simple. Just drill out the 8mm bolt holes to 3/8” and remove about 10mm of the casting on the pinion snout support on the lower edge, to clear the ring gear. I had a thread on the whole DIY process with pics but can't remember what section it's buried in.
 
Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
 
 
 

Here we go
 


Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

the E series and newer starter motor is a gear reduction(more torque) smaller starter that fits the V8 when you grind a bit out to clear the flywheel. (although it may not fit still if the pipes are massive like i've seen in some instances..if so, then you might need one that can have the solenoid clocked in different positions fully aftermarket)
i would hope @bear351c @gerg or @hendrixhc might have a pic or knowledge of the actual pipes and possibly the dipstick issue

Obligatory "video not loading" comment

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Guess it’s time to build that motor I’ve been planning for the last 5 years!

Are you kidding? I can't believe they don't have a shock absorber on that design. That would have some really terrible harmonics, which I imagine would require a balance shaft, and kids we all know that balance shafts make baby Jesus cry

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

took it for a drive today after sorting the timing.
needs diff gears (when diff shop gets back from holidays its going in for 3.7's, tru track and 28 spline axles).
dont have tacho but she moves !

Relax... They run four stage Bluetooth dampers, they're just not installed yet

Are you kidding? I can't believe they don't have a shock absorber on that design. That would have some really terrible harmonics, which I imagine would require a balance shaft, and kids we all know that balance shafts make baby Jesus cry

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Just use these and build any combo you like

Offset grinding means you take down the diameter of the rod journal but the centre of that diameter is ground into it further out in the throw from original, so when first grinding/turning it down, the journal will be wobbling in the grinder/lathe and more material is removed from the inside than out. The theoretical maximum you can increase the stroke by is double whatever the difference in pin diameter is. So a Clevo/400m is 2.311, the usual chev pin is 2.100, difference is 0.211, so is the maximum throw. Double that and you get stroke increase - 0.422. 
There is a limit to how much throw you can grind into it, determined by main/rod journal overlap (strength), rod to block and camshaft clearance, rod angle and thus rod/stroke ratio.
 
As far as taking meat off the counterweight goes, crank balancers only like to drill them for some reason. It's easier to work out the amount of metal to be removed when it's directly opposite the crank throw so I guess that's why. It would be more beneficial to remove metal from either end of the counterweight as you would be able to remove heaps more to get the same result (reducing rotating mass in the crank), but calculating that wouldn't be easy.
 
Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
 
 
 

Sorry, my basic math is wrong there. Difference in diameter is halved to get the throw increase, so basically you halve it, then double it to get stroke.

So:
Journal diameters:
2.311-2.100 = 0.211 difference

Difference in pin centreline (throw)
0.211/2 = 0.1055

Difference in stroke:
0.1055 X 2 = 0.211

Total stroke:
0.211 + 4 = 4.211"

So on a standard bore 400 with an offset ground 400 crank, the maximum theoretical displacement would be 423 ci

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Sorry, my basic math is wrong there. Difference in diameter is halved to get the throw increase, so basically you halve it, then double it to get stroke.

So:
Journal diameters:
2.311-2.100 = 0.211 difference

Difference in pin centreline (throw)
0.211/2 = 0.1055

Difference in stroke:
0.1055 X 2 = 0.211

Total stroke:
0.211 + 4 = 4.211"

So on a standard bore 400 with an offset ground 400 crank, the maximum theoretical displacement would be 423 ci

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

These days, machine work like that is as expensive as a brand new stroker kit, with a steel crank and H-beam rods

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

Hahaha 8 inch rods and an extra 100kg of engine... Sounds worth it

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

These days, machine work like that is as expensive as a brand new stroker kit, with a steel crank and H-beam rods

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk

That's what I thought first, but he said 302. He does know a couple of machinists so they might set him straight unless they can work some magic.

maybe he is using the new extend a deck by k tel,fits any w or c .

I think he's going to carve up a perfectly good 400 crank for nothing. The biggest feasible stroke an 8.2 deck Windsor can handle is 3.4", which with an overbore gives you 347, and already these don't have a great rod/stroke length. The pistons are very short to clear the crank weights, oil consumption and piston wear becomes a problem due to piston rocking and ring stability.
 
The ideal 302 stroker is the 331 with a 3.25 stroke, this having a much better rod/stroke ratio.
 
Any longer stroke than 3.4 and your rods need to be impossibly short, and I don't think the bottom of the bores will clear the crank or the rods.
 
If he's using a 351W block, that is a whole different story. That deck is 9.5", taller than a clevo at 9.2". The mains are the same size as a 400, and with an offset grind and a bore, you can go beyond 408 cubes to say around 427, etc.
 
With a 4.125 bore, you can go right out to 454 and beyond.
 
Maybe if he's talking about a "Boss 302" type engine, he really means a 351W with clevo heads? That's what they call a "Clevor".
 
Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk
 
 
 

Hahaha 8 inch rods and an extra 100kg of engine... Sounds worth it

Sent from my CPH1920 using Tapatalk