Mr Polson

Don't use Bosch. Modern Bosch parts are shit quality, made cheap, and have enormous failure rates. They are nowhere near the company they used to be.

With thermostat, if not on gas check it's the correct "foot" type one - these block the bypass when the engine gets to temp. I think DT18F is the part number off the top of my head.

Don't use Bosch. Modern Bosch parts are shit quality, made cheap, and have enormous failure rates. They are nowhere near the company they used to be.

With thermostat, if not on gas check it's the correct "foot" type one - these block the bypass when the engine gets to temp. I think DT18F is the part number off the top of my head.

My first thought was, he got another Escort?

My first thought was, he got another Escort?

Do NOT use second hand head bolts in a 4.0L

They are Torque to Yield, when you tighten them they are literally tightened until they are at stretching point.
Rule of thumb is any head bolt that is tightened to a degree setting instead of nM/ft lb should be replaced.

Most gasket manufacturers recommend new head bolts when replacing a head gasket regardless as well.

Do NOT use second hand head bolts in a 4.0L

They are Torque to Yield, when you tighten them they are literally tightened until they are at stretching point.
Rule of thumb is any head bolt that is tightened to a degree setting instead of nM/ft lb should be replaced.

Most gasket manufacturers recommend new head bolts when replacing a head gasket regardless as well.

Originality of the car, simplicity, personal preference, ease of parts, are a few that spring to mind.

I love my Barra swapped LandCruiser but I'd never put one in my XF wagon.

I think EF/EL fans on a XG radiator is the way to go? Or just aftermarket fans.  
Xflow radiator will have the hose inlet/outlet on the wrong sides. XG radiators are rare I believe but might bolt straight into XF (I'm pretty sure) and have the hoses in the right spots, and the outlet for the overflow bottle.
 
 
 

Well I bought it 😝
 
Bf XR6 motor with all its bits and the pedal setup, $400.
Still in the car, so I got to hear it run.
I'll come back on Sunday and pull it out. 
 

I do recall a customer not long ago with a Barra turbo XE and they used a VL or similar radiator now that it's mentioned.

I've been asked for soluble oil before and had no luck finding a supplier.

But most Repcos keep this on the shelf.




I personally run Penrite corrosion inhibitor in my XFs with no issues.

I've been asked for soluble oil before and had no luck finding a supplier.

But most Repcos keep this on the shelf.




I personally run Penrite corrosion inhibitor in my XFs with no issues.

You may be interested in this then

https://www.rodshop.com.au/air-conditioning-delete-kit-barra-xr6-engines

Definitely, get the pedal and the plug with as much wiring as you can

Definitely, get the pedal and the plug with as much wiring as you can

Pretty much all the engine wiring except the alternator and starter connects to the ECU with two big plugs. Once undone all the wiring comes with the engine.

The ECU is riveted to the shock tower and is a giant pain to drill out. Then you'll want to cut the wires from the ECU as far back near the firewall as possible.

Just ran in.

BF is probably the pick of them for swapping into an earlier Falcon. FG onwards get a bit complicated with the rear sump & dipstick etc.

I'd pull the sump and timing cover, clean them and reseal them. They basically leap from new around there, so 250,000kms wouldn't help that. Gives you a good chance to see the inside of the engine too.

Good time to paint the rusty block too

If you've got a spare rear main seal from a late xflow it'll fit the Barra. Same goes for the crank bearings.

Oh absolutely. The Barra transformed my Cruiser, and that still weighs 2.5t.

But the other big advantage to the Barra, is you can tune the stock ECU.
Pretty sure to do pretty much anything to EEC-IV or V, you need to chip them at minimum.

Barras are easy to swap and quite easy to run on the factory ECUs if you went that way.

AU VCT was very primitive I think, most 4.0 swaps don't usually worry about the VCT.

Barras are easy to swap and quite easy to run on the factory ECUs if you went that way.

AU VCT was very primitive I think, most 4.0 swaps don't usually worry about the VCT.

This is a T5 (minus bell housing)
 

 
Mine is a later T5 (EF/EL), which pairs really well to a 3.23 rear diff ratio.

This is a T5 (minus bell housing)
 

 
Mine is a later T5 (EF/EL), which pairs really well to a 3.23 rear diff ratio.

Same ECU coolant sensor for XF right through to EL. AU onwards they changed to the cylinder head temp sensor instead of direct coolant temp.
 
Also when trying to start it after flooding are you holding foot to the floor? Doing so switches the injectors OFF to clear accidentally flooding from the cylinders
 
 
 
 

Same ECU coolant sensor for XF right through to EL. AU onwards they changed to the cylinder head temp sensor instead of direct coolant temp.
 
Also when trying to start it after flooding are you holding foot to the floor? Doing so switches the injectors OFF to clear accidentally flooding from the cylinders
 
 
 
 

Same ECU coolant sensor for XF right through to EL. AU onwards they changed to the cylinder head temp sensor instead of direct coolant temp.
 
Also when trying to start it after flooding are you holding foot to the floor? Doing so switches the injectors OFF to clear accidentally flooding from the cylinders