blu xe

the best way to make a bonnet cable pull stronger is keep the latch under the bonnet lubricated. there is adjustment in it also(the catch assy). when they work well you can pull the cable with your little finger
 
same can also be said for the handbrake, the front handbrake cable that goes through the firewall usually lasts about 20yrs.. they fray up and get stiff, lubrication here will also make it amazingly soft to engage..
 
you cant prevent rough people handling them though. same for door handles, when everything is aligned and lubricated they will never break

So I made some guard covers and fitted new tie down points and a tool box for the winch to hide in on Will's trailer using his little CIG inverter unit. Then Sunday needed to weld a bracket for the ute. Can say my 275BOC shits all overt the little inverter unit.Welds the thin stuff alot easier and has so much more control over the smaller jobbie.
 
In welders it is a case of size doe's matter IMO. 

Sorry if this offends anyone but I'm going to say it anyway. LOL. Slotters belong on xw's and xy's and even then there are probably 1000 different wheels I'd put on them too before slotters. Sorry but just not a fan of em. I'll go get my flame suit on now before it starts to get to hot.LOL

If you want a period correct looking wheel then I'd say globes would be the go. You can get the wider ones that the cobra boys like to stick on to fill the coupe guards. Look good on xd's too.

If you want a period correct looking wheel then I'd say globes would be the go. You can get the wider ones that the cobra boys like to stick on to fill the coupe guards. Look good on xd's too.

Sorry if this offends anyone but I'm going to say it anyway. LOL. Slotters belong on xw's and xy's and even then there are probably 1000 different wheels I'd put on them too before slotters. Sorry but just not a fan of em. I'll go get my flame suit on now before it starts to get to hot.LOL

If you want a period correct looking wheel then I'd say globes would be the go. You can get the wider ones that the cobra boys like to stick on to fill the coupe guards. Look good on xd's too.

LOL. Yeah definitely an acquired taste and although I'm not a fan they definitely aren't the ugliest wheel you could go with. Some of them poxy chrome 20's on the other hand.......

Haha we obviously have very different tastes my friend
 
How bout some convos, hang on that ain't gonna work at 400 odd.
 
Maybe, and obviously looks shit hot on D's, globes, if you can pick them up cheap (obviously not easy), but there's two for sale on gumtree for under 200 atm, if you can find another two for the same price happy days.

Yeah I know that if an anchor point must be fitted it needs to be mod plated. Had to put two in my Navara cause they didn't have any and they needed to be  blue plated. Just wasn't sure bout the legalities in regards to single cab utes.

600 will be fine but I would suggest a TFI dizzy conversion first and throw that POS electronic thing to hell.What is the cyl head? 10.5 comp with 250 cam is perfect IMO.Just needs to be tuned right.Time for a dyno tune with blinders on and forget about what on the car and tune the bad running out of it.
 
2.77 gears and a rail and it will NEVER go well btw. Them gears are waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay to high. Even 3.23's will be too high for that combo.

Set the stoppers so that the bonnet is sitting flush with the guards without the catch. Once you've got that sorted put the catch back on and set it with just a touch of pre load on it. Too much and it'll be a bitch to open and you'll have to slam it shut. Too little and your bonnet will continue bouncing at speed. It also pops open easier with a bit of load on it.

Set the stoppers so that the bonnet is sitting flush with the guards without the catch. Once you've got that sorted put the catch back on and set it with just a touch of pre load on it. Too much and it'll be a bitch to open and you'll have to slam it shut. Too little and your bonnet will continue bouncing at speed. It also pops open easier with a bit of load on it.

Set the stoppers so that the bonnet is sitting flush with the guards without the catch. Once you've got that sorted put the catch back on and set it with just a touch of pre load on it. Too much and it'll be a bitch to open and you'll have to slam it shut. Too little and your bonnet will continue bouncing at speed. It also pops open easier with a bit of load on it.

When I did the front end in my xe the only bits where I used nolathane on was the spring saddles and they were the ones that fucked out first. I'd go rubber again. In saying that the blue super pro stuff is meant to be pretty good a bit firmer than rubber but not as stupidly harsh as nolathane.

When I did the front end in my xe the only bits where I used nolathane on was the spring saddles and they were the ones that fucked out first. I'd go rubber again. In saying that the blue super pro stuff is meant to be pretty good a bit firmer than rubber but not as stupidly harsh as nolathane.

Yep the screw driver gauging is fun. Put the stuff on pretty thick and lay plastic over the panel onto the stripper. Helps keep all that stripper goodness sealed in to do its thing.

You got a Windsor in yours don't you NZXD?  Might be mixing it up with someone else's  car on here. Sounds good mate.

It's not the best quality. I will get a better one tomorrow but here goes.
https://vimeo.com/126897182

Oh how I love reading these threads. Where to start? $5000 paintjobs are long gone and if you find someone that will do one at that price I guarantee that you will be unhappy with the result. If your not when you pick it up you will be when it all starts playing up in 6 months time cause ol mate cut corners and used shit products to try and make a buck out of his tight ass quote. I know your saying that its only going to be a daily but IMO your prep and products need to be of a decent quality and even more meticulous  for this reason. Its being exposed to the elements day in day out. Shit prep and product will f**k out in super quick time when exposed to the elements as opposed to a show car that barely sees the light of day humidity and moisture. Paint and panel rates are pretty cheap really compared to lots of the other trades. Some might argue that 15000 dollars is expensive but even at a conservative $50 dollars an hour its still only 300 hrs work. 7.5 weeks with a 40hr week .Charge it out at $80 and that's only 190ish hrs and that comes in at 4.5 working weeks. Having a car blasted and primed PROPERLY, not by a monkey who will f**k your panels and cause even more damage will cost at least $1800 at a minimum. The shop has overheads and staff to pay out of this too. So really I cant see how a panel shop is any more of a rort than any other business trying to survive. Fuck me I got charged 15000 to have a 7m X 5 M patio extension done and the builder was done in 5 days.
 
I've found that on a good clean rust free car that comes in stripped of everything and sand blasted with no to very minimal rust repairs and not banged up everywhere you need at least 350 - 400 hours to get a job that is done to an exceptional standard. READ covered by a paint lifetime warranty. Gaps that are nice with panels that fit properly and probably better than factory. Painted in and out and the undercarriage finished in a nice durable epoxy texture coat. These cars are the standard we stick to at work. We haven't had any customers that have been unhappy with the end result or the price they paid at the end of the job and many have paid ALOT more than 15000 to have paint and panel only done. That isn't put back together either. That's a rolling shell with hanging panels back on and gapped. I've got a mate who had his mustang painted by us and the paint on its 7+ years old and still looks as good as the day it rolled out of our shop. Its not what we call a show car but has won awards at the local shows it been entered in,  as has any of our other quality jobs. Painting isn't hard but the man hours leading up to the shiny stuff going on is where your dollars will go. Fact of the matter is its a labour intensive trade nothing more nothing less. The only way to reduce costs is in the labour. Which means corner cutting.
 
You have to be upfront and realistic with whoever you get to do your car and everyone needs to be on the same page before a hammer and dolly go anywhere near the car. Give them a realistic budget of what your prepared to spend straight up and they will tell you if they can do anything for that price and what standard of work they will deliver at that price! Have a weekly payment plan in place. Your panel shop will love it and you will too. Call in weekly to see where the hours are going and pay as they go. If your short one week they don't work on it simple as that. If it goes to shit and they fuck you over then you've only paid so much and you can pull the car at a moments notice  cause its all paid up and its not to late that you need to redo everything again. We keep in regular contact and encourage the owner to come in when ever they like to see how its travelling. Also remember a good smash shop doesn't always make for a good resto shop. If they don't do regular resto work and aren't keen on doing it walk away.
If they can't show  you any examples of their work or put you in contact with some of their happy customers to back their claims then they aren't worth dealing with. Again walk away.
 
Not digging at anyone but just trying to explain there is much more to a good paint job than meets the eye.

Best way to fix that, take it to a decent mechanic and have it properly flushed.
They plumb a pump with ATF up to the trans cooler outlet lines, run the car until they see fresh ATF coming out. That way the converter and lines get flushed as well as the oil in the box as well.

I think everyone gets all too keen to chase the big HP numbers and forgets that you still need big bucket loads of torque to get things moving. More so when you shifting a heavier car from standstill in a hurry! Kosteki had some interesting reading on their website before they closed shop with 20 different clevo combo's. The first 10 were some pretty basic combo's and highlighted the difference between a good torquey motor compared to one that made the power but not as much torque and explained how in real life driving how much quicker the stump puller ones would have been plus how much nicer manners it would have.

I think everyone gets all too keen to chase the big HP numbers and forgets that you still need big bucket loads of torque to get things moving. More so when you shifting a heavier car from standstill in a hurry! Kosteki had some interesting reading on their website before they closed shop with 20 different clevo combo's. The first 10 were some pretty basic combo's and highlighted the difference between a good torquey motor compared to one that made the power but not as much torque and explained how in real life driving how much quicker the stump puller ones would have been plus how much nicer manners it would have.

I think everyone gets all too keen to chase the big HP numbers and forgets that you still need big bucket loads of torque to get things moving. More so when you shifting a heavier car from standstill in a hurry! Kosteki had some interesting reading on their website before they closed shop with 20 different clevo combo's. The first 10 were some pretty basic combo's and highlighted the difference between a good torquey motor compared to one that made the power but not as much torque and explained how in real life driving how much quicker the stump puller ones would have been plus how much nicer manners it would have.