blu xe

Fark me my head hurts reading all this! Lol.

I've had some with really nice gaps and others that were really bad. Luck of the draw. Start at the back and work forward. If your chasing nice gaps on any older ford or whatever car for that matter it needs to happen prior to paint. As Ando said rubbers fitted and door hinges bushed to eliminate droop. Really nice gaps will require levering, smacking them with mallets and hammers, or adding metal by welding or grinding edges back and rewelding to suit. If you aren't that keen its a happy medium I'm afraid. One that really shits me is the dog leg to back door. I don't think I've had one yet that doesn't have a way to tight gap. 

I've had some with really nice gaps and others that were really bad. Luck of the draw. Start at the back and work forward. If your chasing nice gaps on any older ford or whatever car for that matter it needs to happen prior to paint. As Ando said rubbers fitted and door hinges bushed to eliminate droop. Really nice gaps will require levering, smacking them with mallets and hammers, or adding metal by welding or grinding edges back and rewelding to suit. If you aren't that keen its a happy medium I'm afraid. One that really shits me is the dog leg to back door. I don't think I've had one yet that doesn't have a way to tight gap. 

There was an early mustang up at our local ford day with one on his 6 banger. Walked past and almost missed it. Another guys running one on his clevo never been on a dyno and runs high 11's. Says could do with some dyno time to sort out how it runs on a cold start but once its up to temp runs faultlessly.

How about aussie speed 4 barrel manifold and the throttle body self tuning efi deals that are getting chucked on everything lately.

This ^^^ old school look modern running
 

How about aussie speed 4 barrel manifold and the throttle body self tuning efi deals that are getting chucked on everything lately.

How about aussie speed 4 barrel manifold and the throttle body self tuning efi deals that are getting chucked on everything lately.

How about aussie speed 4 barrel manifold and the throttle body self tuning efi deals that are getting chucked on everything lately.

It's an old school car with iron heads, so should be happy with the cranky sound it makes & will be more than happy if I get it into the 12's.

F246 has been the  basic go to all rounder for years with clevos. Was a very popular cam to use in the 90's for a tuff street clevo. Many were 12 second cars with pretty good drivability. With the better manifolds and heads available these days you could screw some decent power out of that same cam these days. In saying that theres probably many more grinds that would work better than that cam as well now.

F246 has been the  basic go to all rounder for years with clevos. Was a very popular cam to use in the 90's for a tuff street clevo. Many were 12 second cars with pretty good drivability. With the better manifolds and heads available these days you could screw some decent power out of that same cam these days. In saying that theres probably many more grinds that would work better than that cam as well now.

DA polishers are awesome for swirl marks and are pretty forgiving for a rookie as opposed to a normal rotary buff. I still use a rotary buff for cutting but a DA for finishing. The big foot 21  one is what i've used but they are filthy expensive. There are plenty of others around that are more affordable, cant say if they do as good a job but yeah for swirl marks they cant be beat.  

DA polishers are awesome for swirl marks and are pretty forgiving for a rookie as opposed to a normal rotary buff. I still use a rotary buff for cutting but a DA for finishing. The big foot 21  one is what i've used but they are filthy expensive. There are plenty of others around that are more affordable, cant say if they do as good a job but yeah for swirl marks they cant be beat.  

you think ,i own my own restoration business i pride myself on good work at the best price.

All welded in. Decided to make the drivers side in-fill piece in 3 sections due to the complexity of the shapes. Came up not too bad. Remember this is not a Summernats top 60 car, I just want it to look reasonable and function well. Bit of a grind and sand, bit of filler here and there and she will come up a treat.
 
Now that all that is done I can actually get back to building the sump and brackets for alt and vac pump. Yahoo.
 

 

 

to compere pricing I've found ECS engines fairly good for exhaust prices,
http://www.ecsengines.com.au/extractor-header-flange-plate-ford-ea-au-6-cyl-mil
http://www.ecsengines.com.au/exhaust-manifold-pipe-products/?rf=va&va=224
 
Spoolin Boost make the cast J pipe to suit stock manifold, look them up on facebook

Mate of mine has one of the cheapy kits with the up pipe set up on an el xr6. Made 300rwhp with the supplied generic tune without the inter cooler hooked up yet and only low boost. Went to the drags and ran a 13 flat at 112mph on way to skinny street rubber to get any form of traction. Not a bad effort I thought for a thrown together non intercooled kit that cost him about 3 grand that hasn't had a proper tune yet. Oh and a 50 shot of NOS to help it off the line which probably hindered it come to think of it traction wise. He's intercooling it shortly and turning up the boost once it had some dyno time to sort it out.

Mate of mine has one of the cheapy kits with the up pipe set up on an el xr6. Made 300rwhp with the supplied generic tune without the inter cooler hooked up yet and only low boost. Went to the drags and ran a 13 flat at 112mph on way to skinny street rubber to get any form of traction. Not a bad effort I thought for a thrown together non intercooled kit that cost him about 3 grand that hasn't had a proper tune yet. Oh and a 50 shot of NOS to help it off the line which probably hindered it come to think of it traction wise. He's intercooling it shortly and turning up the boost once it had some dyno time to sort it out.

Udidca302
As bear and 2redovers said,
I cut out and replaced wher I could, carefully welded up the pin holes this is a very complex area a lot of valleys and different shapes. I I ground and sanded back, coated in POR15 but could also use KBS and welded back together. I swear by Por15 and KBS rust paints and after using bit here used it on the rest of reapirs, in cabin and boot. If you have a look at the second photo you can see the shiney round circles. They are were the spot welds were. Very time consuming job and and if a decent car wasn't so hard to find this car would have been binned. Would I do it again. Yes! In fact if I was putting any money into another I would pull the top off coat it and it will last for ever
Dale

When you drill out the welds, take it slow and easy, only go through the layer you are removing and keep the drill speed down. You want it to spin fast enough to see it cut the chips of steel away but slow enough that it doesn't overheat the bit. Will last longer as they are a pain to sharpen without the right grinding tool.
When you clean it up to go back in, spray the overlapping edges with either zinc primer or epoxy. Line up the panel, then clean the spot where you need to weld for good conductivity. I usually weld with the wire feed a little lower than normal to get a slightly hotter weld with a bit less build up to clean.

Been awhile bud. Ur welcome. I'll make sure I have beer in the fridge

Tied a bolt to the inside of cant rail ,sill or pillar so it rattles around and drives the service dept nuts trying to find the rattle that the potential customer keeps complaining about. Don't laugh has happened in the past! 

Tied a bolt to the inside of cant rail ,sill or pillar so it rattles around and drives the service dept nuts trying to find the rattle that the potential customer keeps complaining about. Don't laugh has happened in the past! 

Tied a bolt to the inside of cant rail ,sill or pillar so it rattles around and drives the service dept nuts trying to find the rattle that the potential customer keeps complaining about. Don't laugh has happened in the past!