Ando81

there's a pressure switch, it's up in one of the pipes with the sight glass from memory near the firewall. 
if there is no gas in the system(because the compressor leaks, or condensor leaks, or evaporator leaks, or the shraeder valve like a tyre has leaks or a hose is split or o ring.. etc.. )
if there is no gas, it won't engage.
the compressors are meant to have some oil in them, but the gas is also a lubricant in later gases i think. 

get it checked by an air con mob, most will put a small amount of gas in and check for leaks either with a dye or sniffer or both. if you can see obvious oil stains on the condensor in front of radiator it's likely it has a hole in it (also) 

i thought you must have had the compressor tested to want another, get it checked by an air con mob.
 
just be prepared, a lot will want to change TX valve regardless, same for receiver dryer if it's been disconnected especially(while engine removed etc) some may want every o ring changed, because the new gas eats the old ones(some mobs will just gas it and say, see how it goes... one of mine with old o rings lasted years and i sold the car still with working air con.. )
 

I’ve been told that if there is no gas in the system then it won’t let the clutch engage to drive the compressor. Doesn’t the gas have oil in it to help lubricate the compressor therefore if it ran without gas it could do damage to it. Someone may have to confirm this but I’m 80% sure that it’s correct.

Could it be a dodgy starter zapping all the power to turn over and in turn robbing power from the coil as it’s trying to start? Maybe if you get a mate to crank it for you and you put a positive wire direct from the battery to coil it might start. I saw this done on a Range Rover V8 a while ago and it worked, I think a relay was placed onto the wiring to the starter and kept it working until the starter completely died.

Yes the forum is awesome as I have had some great tips from members to make the job easier and to buy the right parts.
Thanks for the kind words gents. 
Cheers
Bill.

Thanks for sharing the top quality pics mate and the cool custom tools. That is what makes this forum awesome, having simple tips to make some of the tedious jobs a lot easier for us all.

Thanks for sharing the top quality pics mate and the cool custom tools. That is what makes this forum awesome, having simple tips to make some of the tedious jobs a lot easier for us all.

AWESOME! love the special invented tools! 

I'm about to embark on my own little project on my V8 wagon, involving an Isuzu exhaust brake switching off one of the dualies and diverting that side through the crossover, creating a single system.
 
The exhaust brake is vacuum type, so high vacuum (cruise/idle) shuts it off, low vacuum opens it (under power). I will valve it so that it opens quickly but delays shutting for 5 or 10 seconds to prevent it working on every gear change.
 
Also a bleed-off will manually keep it open all the time when switched. The extra vacuum bleed will give it a sick lumpy cam.
 
Watch this space...
 
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Ok its all done and looks good lets put her up for sale all the other motors ive done sold first listing


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LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

That stag paste is some of the stickiest crap I’ve ever had to get off my fingers. It should seal well

Thanks for ya help fellas....
So will find a 5/16 hose barb to hose barb....unknown size.... grrrrrr.
 
Got some NOS parts delivered today....and rocket ind. Gave me some books.....
 
 

 
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Ok... After having a good think about the fuel system.
Most of my problems are pick up related... And the in tank pumps me.
I can correct the electrical stuff up front but down back is in for a change. ....
 
So now here's new fuel system.....
 
2 x Aeroflow pumps in billet holder.
2 x 3" x 8" Hydramats + magnets.
1m submersible Efi fuel line.
2 x Non return valves.
Going to jack into the fuel pump wiring with external pumps and run them under the tank cover. Leaves it reversable and went two pumps because on a positive lift fuel tank switching system its easier than one. 
Going to cost me but it's about time I stopped just replacing pumps because they suck air all the time.... Time to get serious.
Die   die . Die . Fuel gremlins!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

I was thinking more plastic coke bottle...... she'll hold..... hehe.
Might need a fire extinguisher though....

Need some more bits for n2o system but will wait for next pay.
Just need fuel pressure guage, teflon paste, fittings and rolls of wire.

Starting to plan out where everything is going..... ordered a new soldering iron..... mine must be 20 years old.
... 60w temp adjustable. Sweet.

Come on Posty!!!

Jack.

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yes, Mate.  (the 2nd one) 

Is that pic taken from “Eleanor” from gone in 60 seconds movie?

Is that pic taken from “Eleanor” from gone in 60 seconds movie?

Is that pic taken from “Eleanor” from gone in 60 seconds movie?

No this is on a seperate red sohc xg falcon I have.... unlicensed and for drags and off road use only as nitrous is not allowed at all in WA and QLD on road cars..... that was forum talk...
but I'm pretty sure WA it's not allowed.

You can't even have a system in your car with the gas turned off.
No system... full stop.
Voids Insurance etc etc etc...

I just want to play with NItrous.
I'm low shotting it until I can build a purpose built nitrous motor.

Just balanced well..... nice pistons, rings, mls gasket etc... good valves/springs etc.
Will ask Thom, and the 4L sohc brainstrust to help with that one later.

For now got my list down to a few parts I need to get started.....
- Low fuel pressure cutout switch
- Guage to monitor bottle pressure in boot.

That will do for now.

Will also need later.....
-Bottle heater and cover.
- N2O and Fuel pressure guages under bonnet.
-Fill bottle and run tests on a piece of the old hwy or an airstrip.

Back to part hunting....
Damn it....but even the more expensive kits you need to buy all the extras.

Budget..... what were looking at....

$2000 inc all parts,gas and dyno test.
That can do up to 100hp shot of NOS safely on standard ecu etc.
Mine already has intake and exhaust mods done.
Power @ 75hp starter shot.... maybe 200-225rwhp if lucky at WOT.

Nitrous motor.. Mates rates+parts.
$1500
But that will huff a 150hp+ shot all day long..maybe more at high rpm.... making the xg hopefully around 300rwhp+ at WOT.

So at $3.5K, thats some serious on tap mojo.

Jack

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Hey guys... After looking at a few options to satisfy my mod bug...
Decided to try N2O.....
 
Have purchased these....
Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/192245872217 Look at this on eBay http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/142306329222
 
That should be a complete wet 75-125hp NOS 10lb bottle set up and an NX purge valve....
Oh.... and got my NOS kit from rocket ind for $650...not price on a that link. I got last one.
 
I wanted power but when I want it.
 
Nitrous Oxide is the perfect solution.
If only triggered at WOT.... and over 2500rpm... with enough high octane 98 juice.....she's apples.
Being a 'wet' system means in injects a ratio of fuel and N2O at one point decided by changable jets.
 
Now I went a V8 kit from Rocket Ind.
the reason being.... I want to start at 75hp kick and get a safe tune there.
I can go to over 125hp shot... but motor would need mods..
 
The kit I have is made for a 43psi V8 system..... but there is a chart to help work out nitrous to fuel ratios.
250kpa=36psi
At 40psi jets are....
Nos... 38 Fuel.....26-28
@ 36 psi would be too rich.
So I reduce jetting to suit psi and get
Nos.... 36 Fuel.....24
Should be spot on and both jet sizes are the smallest size pairing.
Be good for 75hp easy.
Then I'll play with it and see where we go from there.
75hp is probably 1/2 what it has any how.... bit less but hey..... more later.
 
I don't need a chip.... advanced timing... bad for NOS.... in fact... may have to drop 2 degrees timing to get it to go great at 75hp and 5 degrees at 100hp shot.
 
So pretty much if I can get this all in and filled... we can have some fun...
 
Im going to trigger the NOS at WOT ( wide open throttle ) via a micro switch and run thru an arming switch in cab.... bottle mounted in the rear somewhere.... few ideas...
 
New to NOS so will be learning as I go...... also got to find somewhere that fills NOS bottles......hahaha.
 
Jack.
 
 
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LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️

Anything in particular I should be looking for in an lsd diff? I’m an lsd addict only commodores spin a single wheel

MIght be worth mentioning a few handy hints on how to get rid of the smell of fucking diff oil to. That shit stinks and doesnt go away!

LEGEND!! And that is what a good forum is all about, genuine blokes trying to help each other out. We are so lucky on this forum coz some other forums are all just negative crap and blokes having a pi$$ing competition to see who is better than the other ☹️