11 posts in this topic

Hi All,

 

I'm pretty noob at my car, its an XD fairmont with a 250 xflow. The challenge i am having is that the car wont start, but there is some history here so bare with me.... I drove it for a fair few km's one day to grab some parts for it and it died (when i say died we turned the engine off and it just wouldn't start up again). Got it towed back home and through the troubleshooting process did the following:

  • did the carby with a carby kit (gaskets etc)
  • new plugs and leads
  • new coil
  • Checked timing

 

I ended up getting a mechanic to look at it and they replaced the dizzy with a spare and he was able to get it running (however said the actual issue was weak spark due to cable from the coil).

 

So we drove it for a week and then it died again, and here is where i'm at:

  • There is fuel in the bowl and when you pump the pedal fuel squirts in
  • There is spark (removed number 1 plug, put it in the lead and held to engine block and its sparks when you crank)
  • There is compression (put finger in plug hole to check)

 

So where i got to was timing/distributor. When checking it with timing gun its set to 6 degrees and it cranks but wont start (not even a splutter), when you full retard the dizzy it almost starts. Any suggestions where i go to from here?

 

The thing i really cant get my head around is what could have changed between it work and then not working.

 

Gav

 

 

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Could be a bad ignition barrel, try running a wire directly from the battery to the coil, if this works it means either the wiring or the barrel isn't sending power to the coil unless it is in the crank position

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11 hours ago, Thom said:

Could be a bad ignition barrel, try running a wire directly from the battery to the coil, if this works it means either the wiring or the barrel isn't sending power to the coil unless it is in the crank position

So if i run a wire from positive terminal on battery over to positive on the coil then turn the key that would be the right way to do this test?

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Could it be a dodgy starter zapping all the power to turn over and in turn robbing power from the coil as it’s trying to start? Maybe if you get a mate to crank it for you and you put a positive wire direct from the battery to coil it might start. I saw this done on a Range Rover V8 a while ago and it worked, I think a relay was placed onto the wiring to the starter and kept it working until the starter completely died.

Thom likes this

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Points are closed.  ?? Has it got any.....

 

Harmonic balancer has slipped, (put No.1 cyl up to TDC, and check it on the balancer)

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On 11/09/2018 at 4:53 PM, Ando81 said:

Could it be a dodgy starter zapping all the power to turn over and in turn robbing power from the coil as it’s trying to start? Maybe if you get a mate to crank it for you and you put a positive wire direct from the battery to coil it might start. I saw this done on a Range Rover V8 a while ago and it worked, I think a relay was placed onto the wiring to the starter and kept it working until the starter completely died.

Ok so i ran a cable from positive terminal on battery to the positive terminal on the coil and still no luck, its cranking but not starting. I dont really get the electrical side of things but i do have a multimeter (though dont really know how to use). If i connect multimeter to the positive and negative terminals of the battery i get 12.5V, when i connect it to the positive and negative of the coil i get 7.8v - i understand the coil has a resister in it, so would that be expected?

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I think I’ve heard of a resistor coil only operating on 8v but can’t be 100% sure. If you get a mate to crank the car and check voltage of the battery it will probably drop to 10 or so volts. This may not prove anything but may surprise you as to how low the volts drop during cranking.

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12 hours ago, Ando81 said:

I think I’ve heard of a resistor coil only operating on 8v but can’t be 100% sure. If you get a mate to crank the car and check voltage of the battery it will probably drop to 10 or so volts. This may not prove anything but may surprise you as to how low the volts drop during cranking.

 

I’ll check, if it drops really low I wonder if the issue could be the battery. Far out so many things to check!

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11 hours ago, Ando81 said:

If it cranks reasonably quick then I’d rule out the battery but I’m really no expert on the topic. Has it got points in the distributor?

 

Na it’s a capacitive distributor.

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I’ve heard of camshaft wearing and not driving the distributor correctly, I wonder if it’s jumped a tooth at some stage when you turned the engine off. Crossflow engines can wear the fuel pump lobe off the cam therefore stop fuel being pumped into the car by but you said it was pumping fuel in didn’t you? I’d be double checking that you have cylinder 1 on top dead centre using a cable tie or something on top of the piston then see where the timing is set at. This is an odd one that’s for sure

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