XES

Thats probably your best option. The problem with power steering hoses is that if you get a second hand one it'll probably end up doing the same thing. I work at enzed and they really don't take that long to make. Just be sure of where it's leaking from. Usually ford hoses leak not on the actual hoses but on the swivel end that goes into the pump. We have the bits to replace those stupid swivel ends so if it needs that bit done it can be sorted pretty easy.
Even if the hose part isn't leaking it would pay to get it done too. It'll probably cost a bit over 100 bucks I'm tipping.

Thats probably your best option. The problem with power steering hoses is that if you get a second hand one it'll probably end up doing the same thing. I work at enzed and they really don't take that long to make. Just be sure of where it's leaking from. Usually ford hoses leak not on the actual hoses but on the swivel end that goes into the pump. We have the bits to replace those stupid swivel ends so if it needs that bit done it can be sorted pretty easy.
Even if the hose part isn't leaking it would pay to get it done too. It'll probably cost a bit over 100 bucks I'm tipping.

Thats probably your best option. The problem with power steering hoses is that if you get a second hand one it'll probably end up doing the same thing. I work at enzed and they really don't take that long to make. Just be sure of where it's leaking from. Usually ford hoses leak not on the actual hoses but on the swivel end that goes into the pump. We have the bits to replace those stupid swivel ends so if it needs that bit done it can be sorted pretty easy.
Even if the hose part isn't leaking it would pay to get it done too. It'll probably cost a bit over 100 bucks I'm tipping.

ok in this thread im going to try and clear alot of confusion between the different doors
 
i'm going to start with confusion between xg/h doors and Xd/e/f doors (I know d to f theirs differences)
At the front end of the door apart from the hardware used and a rebuildable hinge their the same.
At the back is where the difference starts.
 
I'll start with the lock mechanism in xd/f it's external on the door and the catch is almost a flat plate

and the catch

a xg/h it's internal e series type and the catch is a round bar

and its catch

Ok now it comes to the door handles xg/h door handles and most aftermarket handles will fit a xd/e/f but not the other way around
Hears a pic of a genuine Xh handle from the inside

Hears a d/e/f handle from the inside

Now you can mix and match but it takes a bit of nounce.
xd/e/f doors are a common conversion on g/h but you have to weld the holes up on a def catch and 're drill to suit the xg/h body
Door handles can be swapped the reverse way by drilling a hole if you have enough metal or drilling of the pivot mechanism and fitting your g/h pivot mechanism and 're securing it with a self tapping screw  or a bolt.
 
that concludes this section as i grab some more doors out of my parts rack i'll update the differences between xg and xh doors also the differences between the xd/e and xf doors  
 
 

What a pile

Check out that sexy hand but LOL

This video is a couple of weeks old but here it is
http://vid674.photobucket.com/albums/vv102/dougie77/IMG_15151_zpsjqitjxvp.mp4

Would heat soak only make a difference if you were stationary for an extended length of time?
 
I would have thought the air flow dragging the heat away from the sump and extractors would mean that heat soak would be minimal in such an application. Or am I not seeing the bigger picture here?

Yep that's spot-on, thanks for that. It's actually 11/16" x18 SAE inverted taper, and that thread is exclusive to that size fitting, nothing else uses it. Just so happens that i found an adaptor that goes to -7 JIC which i also have a 3/8" synflex crimp tail for. I'm going with synflex so i can go around corners a bit tighter and also because it might be quieter. I'll just run it away from the heat over the tower like Ando reckons. We have the crimper here at work, so all i need now is the 16mm to 3/8" (-6) JIC.

As long as the thread is 11/16 x 18 it will be all good as long as you have the seat on it to seal on the cone.
 
I wouldn't use synflex hose because of the heat. The hose we use is a gates hose made for power steering. PS-188 us the part number and you need to use the right ferrules on it. The part no for them is SNXB-6. Only thing is wuth this stuff you need to crimp it on.
 
I wouldn't use a hose with a wire braid in it either as for some reason they can be noisy. I've seen it in a few cars. It'll do the job but for me its not ideal.
 
I don't mind sharing what I know with people to help them out. Gotta give something back seeing as how I learn so much from everyone else. Its what I do for work so sharing your own knowledge on something you do for a living can benefit all.

enzed sells those adapters - o ring to JIC - and then I just put a 90 onto them - but I run the lines up the shock tower - over the firewall and back down to the pump.  Keeps the lines away from the heat and gives you more volume.  Not real pretty but it works. 
 
On the pressure line Allan just silver soldered a fitting onto the 3/8 hard line coming out of the box.  worked a treat and has never leaked. 

Yeah it does make it easier using -6 fittings. All the power steering hoses I remake at work end up with it in them to make life easier. I think I might have them adapters at work. I'll have a look.

Thanks mate no rush, just dicking around with some ideas for making up some lines. Trying to go to JIC (AN) each end to make it easy to make up hose/pipe ends.

It's alive and now moves under its own power three gears of wheel spin with a single legger and only 185 tyres but I still have a massive grin on my face just need to sort out a few things still but up and running
 
 
Cortina for life

under car shot
 

That is because you drive like a Nana in your 2L cars, but smash it in 1st and 2nd in your 6 bangers  

need an obd2 unit and there is a program you run on your laptop while hooked up to the car and it will enable it, best thing i ever did on the ba condsidering most of my driving is highway between those stupid point to point cameras on the hume
 
i have a cable and the program if your ever in the area but do some searching on the ford forums and youll find it all

This could be useful to as well
 
http://www.ozfalcon.com.au/index.php?/topic/290-DIY---How-to-repair-vacuum-trees#entry3455

R6 hose will be fine for tranny cooler. I sell this at work and run it on my own car as well with no probs. Its great stuff but no good sor being submersed in fuel.

They are 3/8 NPT Mark.

Cut down the side of it with a hacksaw blade deep enough to go through but not damage the threads. Then tap a small flat bladed screwdriver in behind it to collapse it on itself and pull it out. Pretty easy to do mark. Easy outs never work as the plastic is too brittle and it just breaks off.

Got it all in the car and running, alot of time spent on the laptop getting all the systems setup. LOL now the engine idles do low may alternator needs a smaller pulley because i don't have any voltage at 800rpm!!!!!
 

Take manifold off. Get a small hacksaw blade and cut down top and bottom the pick it out with a small seal pick.
 
Then clean out manifold and re-fit.
 
If its just a bunka engine , hack saw it whilst your buddy holds a vacume cleaner next to it to catch the crap as you saw it.

Cut down the side of it with a hacksaw blade deep enough to go through but not damage the threads. Then tap a small flat bladed screwdriver in behind it to collapse it on itself and pull it out. Pretty easy to do mark. Easy outs never work as the plastic is too brittle and it just breaks off.

Well we didn't get it done but we did get close fuel system is done wiring is almost done engine is in the hole just need to plumb up the carb and water and tie up some loose ends then it will be a pool so next weekend it should be done here are some pics

Dave powered Corty

It's in the hole
 
 
Cortina for life