XF347

Ok now for the dreaded Teflon seals
 
Based on advice from[mention=124]gregaust[/mention] , I installed the seals by gently stretching them around the valve assembly. I wasn't as gentle with them as he suggested, ended up with a twist in each one. It took some careful coaxing with a small flat screwdriver to get them squared up again, then I compressed them by using a quality hose clamp and using the solid part of it (not the punched thread bit) to compress the Teflon down to the right diameter. The housing doesn't have much of a taper into the sealing area, so this step is crucial for getting it to sit home without damaging them.
 
 
Clamped up:

 
See the difference between clamped (left) and not clamped (centre)

 
Now on to the piston seal. This is a bit easier to get on than the valve seals as it's a larger diameter. The o-ring goes in first and acts as a rubber spring to force the Teflon out against the bore. Instead of trying to shrink the Teflon down, I will have to come up with a way of collapsing the seal (sort of like a ring compressor) while installing to get past the threads at the start of the bore. Something like sticky tape or celluphane might do the trick.
 

 
Seal protrusion
 
And she's in. Used a bit of sticky tape wrapped tightly around the seal and piston, but I would suggest an alternate method because the tape was really difficult to get off once the piston is in.

Thanks mate, great advice there

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Yeah the teflon seals would shrink down into the grooves of the shaft a bit more making it easier to reassemble.

When at a workshop and doing alot of these quite a few years ago, we compressed the seals much the same as you have Gerg and then put the whole shaft in the freezer for a few hours.
You wouldn't believe the difference it made in reassembly. Great work on the seal installation tool.

I wasn't correcting you, just adding my useless bit of daily trivia

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Ford did offer a factory 347 stroker in the TS50.

It's when you go over the bump and then have to have a change of plan because you're looking at a tree or b double. That's in its most extreme. But if your chasing the car after it goes over a bump it's got bump steer issues.
 
It's measured by measuring deflection left or right as the suspension compresses. Adjustable height on the tie Rods allow to adjust this out as the steering linkage perceives an arc which causes the toe change during compression.

While I agree gerg, when I bought this kit I did a lot of reading and found it is very common to use tie rod ends like this on mustangs. The guys in the states have been using similar for a long time without issue. I've had them fitted now for a few years and all I can say is it is one of the better handling x series I've ever driven.

I like the drop axle but not a fan of the tie rod. I know it's all engineered and stuff but I'd still want to see some kind of solid spacer between the ball and drag link. To me, that extended ball just looks a bit too prone to breaking.

Few photos as I was fitting the hubs.

Few photos as I was fitting the hubs.

Thought I would add something different in here, I have 2 inch drop stubs and kings low springs. Although I dont have bump stop plates, you can see that the ball joint angle is still fine.

I like 3.5's with a tall tyre . Good all round ratio IMO 

I'm not a fan of the RRS rear setups . Just way too chunky and untidy for my liking  
 
I used the Struts , brake kit and power Rack , although yes wasn't cheap but was no where near the suggested 20K . I wanted the extra room the struts gave in the engine bay. The added engine bay space saved quite a few $$$ on not having to get custom pipes made ,  so was a win - win IMO .
I only got the basics I needed . I did not use their pump or lines , again I found them untidy and too blingy as a bolt on  
Same for the control arms , WTF ? just pop riveted plates on the bottom  Nor did I use their Radius rods .
 
There was a few minor hiccups getting it all fitted up nice but first time on the track , like i said above . I found it did work very nice .

Please refer to last post.

The tyre is very slightly stretched but not much at all. No tread hangs out the edge of the quarter panel, it just fits under.

4.5 inch backspace, no rubbing anywhere on full lock. I have 2 inch drop stubs and super low springs. Wheels also fit with standard stub axles and SSL's. Tyres are 235/30R20's from memory.

20x 8.5's definately do fit on the front. Mine has them all round and tyre is almost under the guard with no rubbing and no mods to get them to fit. Although only running a 235 tyre on front. Unsure about the 10 on the rear though.

I believe he is just showing the spacers. If you look closer there is no shock there, so obviously the nuts were removed to get it out.

I believe he is just showing the spacers. If you look closer there is no shock there, so obviously the nuts were removed to get it out.

Very good point, I didn't look that close.
 
I still think it's a bit dodgy as those nuts aren't giving support to the whole shock hat leg.

I believe he is just showing the spacers. If you look closer there is no shock there, so obviously the nuts were removed to get it out.