gregaust

Put lifters pushrods balancer manifold nice edelbrock signature series covers and new rockers and oil droppers and correct 400 dip stick looks good and tough

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Any of those are an ok option for a mild setup . Don't get caught up in the whole HP robbing thing. For your setup you'd never notice.
Anyway a roller bearing in a C6 at the rear helps free them up and available as a bolt in deal .
 
The C4's are around but pricey . If you're rebuilding  budget in for a planet as most are worn out .
The C6 is tough as as long as the pipes will fit as above . The right parts and a shift kit help nicely. And a tube dipstick will fit in a Falcon no problems .
 
The FMX with a good rebuild and transgo shift kit is all it will need . As long as it is ok parts wise to start with , and pay attention to the forward drum bore where the sealing rings run . A lot are worn but can be sleeved .
 
FMX + C4 are same length so tailshaft will fit with correct yoke .
C6 likely need tailshaft shortened 

Spot on yes . Done many the same XY , XA XC XD with the XC calipers and XF and no issues at all .
 
As long as you have the XC or XD front lever also for the handbrake you'll be sweet .

Any of those are an ok option for a mild setup . Don't get caught up in the whole HP robbing thing. For your setup you'd never notice.
Anyway a roller bearing in a C6 at the rear helps free them up and available as a bolt in deal .
 
The C4's are around but pricey . If you're rebuilding  budget in for a planet as most are worn out .
The C6 is tough as as long as the pipes will fit as above . The right parts and a shift kit help nicely. And a tube dipstick will fit in a Falcon no problems .
 
The FMX with a good rebuild and transgo shift kit is all it will need . As long as it is ok parts wise to start with , and pay attention to the forward drum bore where the sealing rings run . A lot are worn but can be sleeved .
 
FMX + C4 are same length so tailshaft will fit with correct yoke .
C6 likely need tailshaft shortened 

Agreed.  Done the conversion on the XB, from drum to disc brake 9", haven't changed a thing.  Brakes hard and straight. Heard many stories about rears locking up, etc, but haven't had it on both conversions I've done. Fully rebuilt calipers from an XC/ZH, and new discs. 

Bit of a belated thanks, but cheers for the explanation dex.

I did mate, reflection can be a bitch on a sunny day, but looks good.
 
Here’s a link to the process with pics on aff if anyone needs it, cbf to post it all again.
https://www.fordforums.com.au/showthread.php?p=6639417#post6639417

I used a lot of that spec cam many years ago . Several manufacturers made basically same grinds . They were a real nice all round cam in a 302 or 351. In a 400 it will make great torque 

I used a lot of that spec cam many years ago . Several manufacturers made basically same grinds . They were a real nice all round cam in a 302 or 351. In a 400 it will make great torque 

Yeah it's just a stage 1 , the 400 will love it

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The gear from USA came very early,only a week,new cam n lifter kit Elgin,and pistons n rings 030 now I can take the block down and get the machine work done

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New sump and oil pump came,I must have bought 10 of these sumps over the years and are really good price and quality

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They usually only have 6 base plate screws , 2 spare holes . 

Hi Bear,
 
Thanks for your input as well,
 
Sorry about the message and then the addition of the topic, Greg doesn't accept direct messages lol, added the topic hoping he would answer.
 
Greg,
 
3500rpm on the highway no thanks😳. I will need to revisit the cam.
 
Great input, I really appreciate it.

Good choice in parts thus far. I would at minimum, clean up the ports on the 2Vs as they can be pretty terrible in the casting. I did that on mine and despite only having only about 3 hours in them, I would guess that they're easily 10% better in flow. A properly cleaned up set of iron 2Vs should be good for 400hp.

Before getting them skimmed, determine what compression you want to run (thus chamber size) and pistons (stock rebuilders or good zero deck ones). The compression number hinges on what cam you are running by figuring out what dynamic compression you actually will have. I have said for a long time, pick your camshaft and build the engine around it.

Upgrade valve springs to suit cam specs, get heads done up and guides machined to suit press-on seals. Up to you if you get the rocker pedestals machined to suit stud mounted rockers, it does allow a bigger selection of rockers but there are decent pedestal mounted ones out there, namely Yella Terra and Scorpion. Stock steel rockers aren't a deal-breaker, they just work the oil harder and can't deal with much above 0.500" lift and/or high spring pressure.

Many folks on here have had good results with the Comp 268 and 274 cams, but for any cam aim for around the 220 mark at 0.050" give or take. I would save up for a retro roller cam in that range only because I've wiped 2 flat tappet cams on my clevo in less than 100,000 km. It's getting harder to find good oil to suit flat tappet cams now.

Your inlet manifold can be the stock iron 4 barrel, but if you can stretch to an Edelbrock air gap that would be a no-brainer. The other good name manifolds are probably only slightly better than the stock one (which isnt bad) but you'll save a lot of weight up top using them. Don't use cheap Chinese ones. They are poorly made clones and they rob the original designers of their hard work. Their cylinder balance will also be poor.

Using the hotrodder's rule for carbys, take target HP and double it to get the CFM you need. So either a 750 vac or pumper will be perfect. These are said to be the sweet spot for size in a square bore carby.

4-into-one headers are obviously ideal but are a tight squeeze in an earlier narrow chassis. Tri-Ys are a good compromise between stock manifolds and proper tuned length 4-1s.

1 horse per cube shouldn't be too hard in this day and age. If you do get it chassis dynoed though, don't be too disappointed by the figures. My 302 gets along ok but didn't even crack 200 hp. I know my cam is drastically holding it back for top-end power but I like the low and midrange it has.

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As much as I hate to admit my association with this lol  But it sure was a learning curve back then .. But all relevant to this conversation here .
 
This was the same block prior to turbo's. Again factory clevo block , lots of nitrous 
 
World's Fastest Cleveland Powered Ford Cortina Streetcar by RDP Motorsport USA - YouTube

As much as I hate to admit my association with this lol  But it sure was a learning curve back then .. But all relevant to this conversation here .
 
This was the same block prior to turbo's. Again factory clevo block , lots of nitrous 
 
World's Fastest Cleveland Powered Ford Cortina Streetcar by RDP Motorsport USA - YouTube

We did it years ago     The old RDP ute , Factory clevo block from the wreckers ,  C302B heads , 2 x 88mm Turbos  1273 RWHP . It went on to run 8.50 
That factory block never let us down . And i can verify it was every bit a factory clevo block..  Was grouted to welch plugs . The only thing in the block was some fretting of the main caps @ 8200 rpm  
 
That same day I got to take  that car ontrack for powercruise . It was fast  
 
1273rwhp Ford BA Xr8 Ute by RDP Motorsport USA - YouTube
 
Ford Ba XR8 Twin Turbo Ute at the Drags Testing Built by RDP Motorsport - YouTube
 
Twin Turbo Ford XR8 Ute by RDP Motorsport - YouTube

That has come up real nice .. 

The idiot light is normally set at around 5 psi, so if it comes on when you're into it, it's already too late. At idle is less damaging but still not good. Something tells me that 2 out of 2 "bad" oil pumps isn't an oil pump issue at all. I think there's something wrong elsewhere in the engine.

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Pictures of sold engine

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Awesome write up.
 
The jig Sparky fabricated freaked me out a bit and almost made me not try and disassemble but I thought I could get away without it... and it worked!
 
I sprayed wd40 around clamping surfaces, placed booster in a vice and tightened the two nuts, used clamp to stop the top flying away under spring pressure and then used a two foot crow bar to twist. Came away surprisingly easy. Cleaned and inspected all parts and other than a bit of rust she looks good. Ill still chase up with the experts about what I should replace since its apart. 
 
Still can't work out how to pull diaphragms off without damaging since they look OK but 
 
Ill post some photos .
 
Thanks for the write up Sparky!
 
 

Looking good.. 😎

yes i had just moved up here from sydney ,and was out of doing cars up,then i hear on the radio redcliffe dyno home of the worlds fastest clevo street car,and i thought yeah right,but at the time it was true,im glad i made the move up here some 20 years ago,i lived on the sunshine coast,brisbane ,and now the gold coast,but tbh the st machine sceene up here was a bit light compard to sydney back in the day,melbs also,now its all hoons with AU falcons.

We did it years ago     The old RDP ute , Factory clevo block from the wreckers ,  C302B heads , 2 x 88mm Turbos  1273 RWHP . It went on to run 8.50 
That factory block never let us down . And i can verify it was every bit a factory clevo block..  Was grouted to welch plugs . The only thing in the block was some fretting of the main caps @ 8200 rpm  
 
That same day I got to take  that car ontrack for powercruise . It was fast  
 
1273rwhp Ford BA Xr8 Ute by RDP Motorsport USA - YouTube
 
Ford Ba XR8 Twin Turbo Ute at the Drags Testing Built by RDP Motorsport - YouTube
 
Twin Turbo Ford XR8 Ute by RDP Motorsport - YouTube