steve mcqueen

I drove an old XY Falcon back in the day that had been converted from the tree to the floor, still the 3 speed .
I kept wanting to go from 3rd to 4th even tho it wasnt there, just my mind said 
"its now a 4 speed with this floor change". 
Id find an auto for your car. Keep it simple. 
 

If it's matching numbers, look at the build plate. Engine codes are different for each one. They would have either "P" for a 302 or "T" for a 351

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I converted my sisters XP Ute 10 odd year ago.
Her's had the 3 on the tree and hydraulic clutch and we used a single rail gearbox.
Now we used her 3 speed bell housing and we had to get the centre hole machined out to fit
we also had to get a new hole drilled and tapped in the bell so the box would bolt up to it.
We used a brand new 4 speed clutch kit when we installed it. 
Then we dummied it up under the floor so i could mark out where to cut the hole for the shifter.
We never had to mod the trans tunnel, was simple cut a hole and stick the shifter thru.
We did have to get a new gearbox cross member as the 3 speed was different to the 4 speed 
and i think i just got that from Sydney classic Falcon? (i have a fuzzy memory)
Never changed diff ratio's, just drove it and it worked. 
Still does today , she still got it 😊
Oh and hers has bucket seats so never had issues with shifter.
She has an XF centre consol in there and all look well. 

One of those what if moments..

Generic car ramp..

It looks like it will sit under the sump lip but can't be 100% sure because my engine has a trans attached. It looks good though and makes a cradle easy, just chock up the back end for transport and weld legs on it later.

I stumbled upon an old Brake Booster rebuild tutorial thread, over on the Ford Australia Forums,
and thought it well worthy of adding to our Archives...
 
Here's a summary of the rubber components (with pricing), used in the below rebuild -
VH2013 - Reaction Disc - $6.60
VH2015 - Front Seal - $5.41
VH2029 - Rear Seal - $26.40
 
VH2579 - Main Diaphragm - $31.33
VH2580 - Main Diaphragm - $39.60
VH2581 -  Seal - $21.12
VH2582 - Seal -
 
The complete XC/XD/XE brake booster assembly part no. is/was VH395
 
 
For further info, see the following link to another excellent rebuild tutorial we have, created by fellow OzFalcon member 'jca4'.
 
Full credit for the following write-up, goes to Wayne (aka XC GXL on Ford Forums). 🙂
_______________________________________________________________________________________________
 
Some of us live overseas with these beauties and when something goes wrong we either have to spend a truck load on postage (and sometimes extra TAX) or we improvise with what is available to get our cars back on the road.
Well I had a brake booster failure a little while back and fortunately I had a decent spare however I looked into getting a spare sent over and the cost of a reconditioned one including postage was frightening.
I was fortunate enough to meet a bloke in Wollongong before I left in the brake and clutch business as I got some bits and pieces for the XC before I left home.
When the booster failed I rang him and he was kind enough to send me over all of the major parts to recondition an XC/XD/XE brake booster.

Here is an exploded view showing the parts I replaced.





and here are a few photos of the replacement parts









I decided to try to tackle a rebuild although I have never done so before and was a little daunted by it initially like how to spilt it, replacing diaphragms etc, etc.
Well I managed to overhaul 3 that I had which were knackered with success.
So for all of you guys living overseas and those of you who want to overhaul your own booster this is how I did it.
Firstly I made up a jig to enable me to split the booster as the top section needs to be twisted from the lower section and can take a bit of force. The jig looks a little Heath Robinson but it worked a treat for me.







Once the top is split the M20 rod, which incidentally is 500mm long with a 13mm hole 70mm deep drilled into each end to enable the plate to not foul with the Rod and Valve Assy (Part no 2377), is wound back to enable the spring to be detensioned safely. This part is really necessary during reassembly as trying to hold the spring down while trying to locate the top to the bottom is difficult.



Remove the Rod and Valve Assy (2377). This is the one from a 38 year old car and needs a good clean.
This is from a 38 year old XC and was a little worse for wear.




I only used WD40 and wire wool to clean all these parts.
Disassembled.



All that is needed for this is a strip down, clean and reassemble.
Make sure that the little piston is removed and cleaned and the reaction disc (Part No 2414 from drawing and replacement part no VH2013) replaced and that the piston is free to move.
Once this is split the main diaphragm assembly can be removed from the housings.
Again this takes a bit of force as the whole assembly needs to be pushed from the lower seal.
This is how they look once removed. Any wonder the brakes were a little odd!







To remove the pedal to booster assemble simply remove the circlip and the whole rod pushes out.



To remove the diaphragms you will need a small flat blunt screwdriver as the diaphragms are sandwiched between the Valve Body (Part No 2391) and the Diaphragm Plates (Part No’s 2395A, 2395B and 2395C). Take note of the disassemble sequence although the assembly can only go one way when reassembling.



here is the assembly without the diaphragms





Remove the rear seal from the main housing. This is not shown clearly on the Ford exploded view but is replacement part No VH2029.
I then cleaned the whole lot up with wire wool, soapy water and some fine wet and dry.
Replace all the diaphragms (replacement part No’s 2A365B = 2579 and 2A365A = 2588). This requires a little silicone grease around the inner lip of the diaphragm and then just force (using hands only) the diaphragm between the diaphragm plate and the Valve Body. It takes some effort but goes eventually.
Do this for both Diapragms. Make sure that the diaphragm 2A365B (2579) is pushed up around the outer lip on 2395B as this allows the vacuum to be formed when in use.

This is a final assembled unit.



Also when the whole assembly is put back into the main housing make sure that the top diaphragms 2A365A is (2588) outer edge is below the retaining indents to enable a seal between the housing and the diaphragm plate 2395B.
I then just put the whole part assembly back into the jig compressed the top housing and spring and then tapped the top cover around using a soft hammer and the plate that I made to go over the master cylinder mounting studs.
I managed to do one in about 1 hour including cleaning. It is a pretty simple job really if you have the right set up.

If there is anything I didn't describe well please let me know and I'll only be too happy to help where I can.

Wayne

Pop sum split tube now over your electrical tape to make it look pretty. Good job.

Pop sum split tube now over your electrical tape to make it look pretty. Good job.

I ended up just using the XF wiring. The grommet from the XF light fits the XD backing so I just transfered them over. As for wiring, I just cut the XF parker plug off and joined the XD terminals onto it. Then I just cut the seperate high beam wires off at the plug. Easy as

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I like that ^^^ 🙂

Not bothered at how rusty it is, this is also a teaching exercise for the forum. This car has many of the common problems that you guys may encounter when buying projects and if you know how to fix them then scary cars won't be as scary any more.

Oh and no, not any more. It's left my shop, there won't be any more updates on that one from me.

Never, your a talented man, ive seen your work here that you post up.
You should have held off and spent your time and money on something better.
Arn't you building a Ford coup of sorts?

Waste Of Fuckin Time And Money 😉

Pics or it never happened

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On night 2 of the Aussies we were 12th fastest out of 96 cars, with the wrong diff gears in because we broke the shorter gears. 
 
4 trips thru the scrutineering shed, basically after every heat.  Fair to say the old crossflow upset a few big dollar efi teams. Makes it sweeter that the car passed every test. 

Better watch out Ando, the Holden sooks might get them banned

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Crossflow powered cars first and third in the 2019 Queensland Modified Sedan Title. 
 
Mighty Clarko's Performance XE came home first, FG Falcon 2nd and Shallcross Cortina 3rd. FORD podium  lock out.  Yahoo. 
 
Long live the mighty crossflow. 
 

oil pressure is a balance between restriction to flow and flow capacity. 
Capacity (C) comes from the pump and increases with RPM.
Restriction is caused by the viscosity (V) of the oil and the sum of all of the size of the gaps your pushing it though (T). 
I guess it could look like
P = (CxRPM)/(VxT)
Pressure and flow (F) in the system are inversely related. P=/=F
F = CxRPMxTxV
 
You need to use whichever oil gives the flow you require, and provides sufficient film strength to protect the moving components. Do not be alarmed if your digital gauge is only showing 2 bars of pressure when at operating temp and at idle. This is fine. I would be more alarmed if your pressure was 2 bars over half when full. There is a misconception that thick oil = better protections and this is not always the case. Having oil that is too thick increases the risk of damage from thermal fracturing and Shearing of the VI's. It also reduces the ability of the oil to cool and increases load on the rotating assembly and the oil pump, costing efficiency. 
Too thin and it wont provide sufficient film strength.

There's obviously a lot more science in oils but i think that should sort you out.
 

Poor cat (lmao) 🤭

I'll give it a go after i get back from the drs. I think i fractured my knuckle, when my spanner slipped while pretending to be a motorcycle mechanic. I blame the cat.

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Get one made up. 
Plenty of decal shops out there now that can do it quick smart.
Have you got a pic of what you want?
If so, take it with you and show them
and presto, all done. 😉

I recon i looked around for these decals for ages and couldnt find them.
 
Steves on the money, probably easier to get some one to make up some repro ones.

Well  the the wags is just like its number plate
ALL 000
Circa 1980 green and white
(its the cooks car and thats her to T) all or nothing.
 
It didnt like being left all alone idle for a week.
It was just flooded .
It drained the battery trying to get it to fire.
So i pulled it of the shed put a set of jumper leads on it and it went .
Thats a win for the good guys.
 
 

Bear, yeah me still lurking about, i pop in from time to time.
 
I was living in Mudgee NSW at the time and the car belonged to a friend.
That would have been 17 years ago?? 
I dont know what my mate Mark did with the Falcon, i dont think he owned it very long.
I have not spoken to him either for prolly 10 years??

Hi mate, looks like the thread is 2 years old.......
 
@steve mcqueen might be lurking still. 
 
Love to see some photos if ya have any.? 

Saw brambles red on a XC GXL from factory years ago. 
I had to respray the bonnet for the owner. 
3 different brambles red from my knowledge so make sure you get the
correct colour for your car.