bigpaulo

Lol, that should work well mate.
I'll finish the repair to the vent and start putting the dash in tomorrow mate, that way you can get stuck in.
I'll put it up on this thread as it looks as though it'll help out a few others.
It's the least I can do, considering all the help I've got from this forum myself...
 
Jay.

If I read your install thread backwards it should be like instructions for removal haha 

The C Pillar trim above the rear window, should have rubber washers on the threads, before they are bolted to the car.
The windscreen might not be sealed properly - I had that issue, and found the cause to be a join in the A pillar.
 
The A pillars have a factory overlapping join, under the chrome trim and usually the glass sealant covers it.
 
If the glazier hasn't added enough sealant, it can be partially exposed, letting water in.
On mine, it was very hard to see the gap - it was miniscule, but yet it was the cause of all the water in the passenger footwell.
 
My water leak, was tracking in behind the seal too, just like yours.
Take the A pillar trim off, both inside and out, and have a really close look.

If it's a XF or earlier you can probably rig the ignition up to start it (run a wire from battery positive to the coil positive, then arc the starter motor with a screwdriver to kick it over) put the column back in after you pull the dash and use the key to unlock the steering and you should be right.
If it's a XG or XH, you'll be shit outta luck mate...
It's a simple job to get it out, why not leave it where it lives on the street and pull the dash out? All the vents stay connected to the heater box, so they can stay in with it, but it might pay to pull the box out, so you can check the passenger vent also.
I'll be putting the dash in over the next day or 2, so just check my thread for the installation process if you'd like.
I've already swapped the heater box to the XG one, but that's an easier job to do than the dash in my opinion.

Just thinking out loud, it would have to be one of the only other places water can get in.

Gerg you should teach classes on this stuff

No you are wrong, I invented it all. You're extremely lucky that I am generous enough to share it all with you... Such is my vast, immeasurable talent that I am sometimes, wait... always in awe of myself for coming up with such mind-blowing, god-like, pure and original ideas. I also have a gargantuan, tree trunk-like penis.

Gerg you should teach classes on this stuff

Gerg you should teach classes on this stuff

Short rods have the piston decelerating/accelerating at the top of the stroke much more abruptly than those on a long rod. This gives a rapid rate of compression and expansion accordingly. At lower rpm, this is supposed to help make more torque as the rod is acting at a more advantageous angle on the crank right at the peak of cylinder pressure occurring. At high rpm, this is a hindrance, as that rapid compression is very sensitive to ignition timing and the rapid acceleration of the piston after top dead starts to outrun the combustion, meaning power is lost. Imagine pedalling a BMX bike up to the speed where most of your energy is used pumping your legs rather than pushing on the pedals. There is a point where the pedals start to travel faster than what your legs can.
 
The piston also undergoes more stress as the acceleration happens more suddenly, also there is more side thrust on the piston and bore due to the increased sideways angle of the rod.
 
Imagine a ski boat being the crank pin, the rope is the conrod and the skier is the piston. The skier is being towed behind the boat and 20 metres offset to it. There is a certain amount of force trying to pull the skier sideways. Shorten the rope further and this angle increases, and force trying to pull the skier sideways becomes stronger. The force on the rope increases too because you are towing the same load but at an increased angle.
 
Longer rods work better at high rpm for a few reasons: more gentle acceleration of the piston, more "dwell" time at tdc (to allow more time for combustion to occur before acting on the piston), less side thrust on the piston and engine is less sensitive to ignition timing.
 
Gentler acceleration/deceleration of the pistons makes an engine smoother as there is less secondary vibration involved. I won't go into that as I have crapped on enough.

Every time i read old ads about spac falcons, the options say they come with spac style wheels...but whats the difference between spac rims and stockies? They look the same to me...

Ok, so i borrowed a pic from google, 
Looks like a 86-87 XF Falcon poverty pack.
If i could pull the hub cap off it, what would the wheel look like?
 

Ah thats a bit of a bummer. It looks like they just screwed up some plastic as an afterthought! not the neatest finish...

I used plastic modeling paint mixed in with a little bit of thinners, that way its not to thick and heavy to work properly.

They are called Convo ETs by Centreline.
 
http://centerlinewheels.com/wheels_detail.php?mw_id=34&sw_id=365

The really big one, filler neck.
The two off the top, to fuel pump (bigger one) and the return.
 
The smaller one near the filler is either overflow or breather or both. And all those black ones are vapour lines - hooked up to emmisons control too I think.

Cheers everyone for all your help and advice on this.
Now that ive got some idea on what i'm doing, its time to start collecting parts.
No doubt as I get further along I will have more questions...I'd rather ask and get it right the first time than have to rebuild again and again!

Speak to Ben from Trimmaster he does amazing stuff with XE-XF interiors.
 
website - http://globaltrim.com.au/
 
Cheers, Alex.

Cheers everyone for all your help and advice on this.
Now that ive got some idea on what i'm doing, its time to start collecting parts.
No doubt as I get further along I will have more questions...I'd rather ask and get it right the first time than have to rebuild again and again!

Cheers everyone for all your help and advice on this.
Now that ive got some idea on what i'm doing, its time to start collecting parts.
No doubt as I get further along I will have more questions...I'd rather ask and get it right the first time than have to rebuild again and again!

Cheers everyone for all your help and advice on this.
Now that ive got some idea on what i'm doing, its time to start collecting parts.
No doubt as I get further along I will have more questions...I'd rather ask and get it right the first time than have to rebuild again and again!

Hi everybody
 
I thought it would be a good idea to get a bit of a tuning thread going for people like me who have no clue what to do.
 
Would be great if you wise gents could explain a bit about adjusting timing with stuff like stock dizzys up to msd programmable units and what you have found to work well for anything from a stock rock up to off chops & boosted engines. oh and carb tuning/jetting.
 
hopefully it will help some people like me who have no clue yet but are keen as to learn and give it a crack
 
Cheers

Do stick with it cause you will end up with an awesome car with character not some bland grocery getter with a turbo.

You didnt watch the vids i posted ? No start retard,no low timing setting it just works.That ignition is TFI dizzy and a 6AL2 Non programmable HVC coil...starts drives fine.That said the ultimate is a fully mappable system that is tuned on a dyno (thats not included in the price LOL) not in the driveway but as stated before,mine had one and now it doesn't and as other's have stated who have installed the TFI set up it works fine in everyday life.Thats why the world has no hot rodders any more people expect to have a car that runs like stock yet goe's like and V8 supercar?It's all about concession's...
 
On what yours is going to look like I wouldn't bother as there will be no real gain TBH unless you want to run on 91 octane fuel and big compression so you can work the timing map.But what do I know only having done all of them ignitions before and finding the current to work best?But really it's all piss and wind until a engine is built anyway.So I'd worry about all that first or this thread will be 8 pages long then you will reply with ...sorry guys it looked like too much work and too dear so I bought a XR6 turbo.Seen it too many times before...LOL
 
Good luck with what ever you sort out bud...

This might be a silly question...but what would happen if I ran the est dizzy and ignition on a worked motor?
All this ignition stuff seems to be getting a bit out of control...
I have the two most expensive hobbies, cars and music haha