Crazy2287

Work harder for no pay! *flicks a whip*

Hello there,
 
Making this as sort of a news spot for Megasquirt ECU related things.
Try to keep the off topic questions out of here, If you need help with your megasquirt or choosing a setup make a new thread and i'll come over there and help, if you don't get a reply withing a day PM me with the link to make sure i find it.
 
I'll start with:
 
I'm interested in very soon purchasing a RS232 to bluetooth adapter.
For those in the loop it's been about for a while, but the big thing on this front at the moment is there is finally some reliable dashboard software to interface the Megasquirt with an android powered Tablet (slate PC) or mobile phone (such as galaxy S3)
 
Wireless, 100m range and awesome.
 
The hardware required can be purchased pre-configured so it's basically plug and play. and im interested in purchasing some of these units asap.
 
After expressions of interest. Organize a bulk buy right here for people interested.
it will work out between $60 and $70 bucks inc postage for the RS232-bluetooth adapter. the software is +$10 from the android play store (but there is a free trial)
I'll be between Brisbane, Canberra and Sydney over the next few weeks so logistics for those areas is sorted.
 
 
More info:
http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/shadowloggerms
http://tunerstudio.com/index.php/shadowdashmsmenu

you need to use xd/xe temp sender, dry thread for earth, $12 from repco.

xd-xe should be 73 ohms cold, 23 mid 10 hot
xf 160 cold 70 mid 47 hot

I made these at work Crazy.  They work out to about about 80 bucks give or take a few dollars per hose. New rubber ones are about 40 bucks each.
 
These are the ones that I made for the rear of my xe
 

 
I have a web site through mu supplier of the brake parts that I can look up any pretty much any hose off any car and it tells the me the parts to use and from that I can work out the price.  With and E series diff in an X series I think its just a matter of changing the fitting that goes from the diff onto the body from 10 X 1 on Eseries to 3/8 X 24 on X series and make the rest of the E series hoses.  Easy done.  I've still got to make the front ones for my car yet but they come out at round the same price.  If you want me to price them up properly for you I can do that.

Yeah it is a good product and it ADR compliant which is the more important bit
 
Pic of the colors
 

 
Hose colors that are availiable are:

clear
smoke/black
blue
red

The sleeve behind the fitting is availiable in:

silver
black
blue
red
purple
gold
green
yellow
 
So a few options there

so it cuts out. only when in drive. no indication. still has power. and always within 100 meters. No immobiliser.

Fuck.... lol

.
Pacemakers to 2.5 inch mandrel solid mounted for best clearance. From diff back it flairs to 3" and has a unbranded 2.5" sports muffler that needs new glass pack.

Also, If you don't have the clutch PERFECTLY lined up, you can get it together still but it can be a 4 hour CU*T!

the same extension bar i used to drift out the spigot. I put it back in the spigot with enough tape so it sits in nice and square. 
 
Then make another layer of tape there the clutch will sit to center the clutch plate on the extension bar.
 
then semi bolt it together and use a metal rule, measuring in 4 points around the housing from the extension bar to either the clutch fingers or the housing lip. Get it within a millimeter so all 4 measurements are the same. +-1mm. bolt it together. then fit it.
 
Having the clutch centered is paramount to make it mate up as easy as possible.
 
 
The only other thing that will stop it is the spline teeth no mating up. If this is a problem put it in gear and spin the tailshaft which in turn will spin the input shaft and line the splines up. if it turns and locks, its likely the splines have engaged. (of your back wheels are on the ground, Lawl.

Also, If you don't have the clutch PERFECTLY lined up, you can get it together still but it can be a 4 hour CU*T!

the same extension bar i used to drift out the spigot. I put it back in the spigot with enough tape so it sits in nice and square. 
 
Then make another layer of tape there the clutch will sit to center the clutch plate on the extension bar.
 
then semi bolt it together and use a metal rule, measuring in 4 points around the housing from the extension bar to either the clutch fingers or the housing lip. Get it within a millimeter so all 4 measurements are the same. +-1mm. bolt it together. then fit it.
 
Having the clutch centered is paramount to make it mate up as easy as possible.
 
 
The only other thing that will stop it is the spline teeth no mating up. If this is a problem put it in gear and spin the tailshaft which in turn will spin the input shaft and line the splines up. if it turns and locks, its likely the splines have engaged. (of your back wheels are on the ground, Lawl.

NO, it means get the fuck out =P

Here's an idea. For this though you'll have to install the AFM inline, in the pipe. and run a pod filter behind the LH headlight.