MNTL.XD

I have painted both my previous block and the block i have now in 2 pack without any problems except the paint darkened on the heads where the extractors bolted on, it has held well without any cracking or peeling etc. Once it was clean i gave the block a clean up with a wire brush on the grinder, prep washed it, primed it with a pressure pack of high temp, rough go over with scotch-brite, then top-coated it 2 pack body-colour and hit it with clear about 20 mins later.
 

 

so tomorrow I set of at about 630am to head to Moe, for the start of the 2017 Vic Mini Alpine Tour. Over the next couple of days, the Escort will be driven anything up to 1000km, with a good mix of open highway, but mostly alpine roads. 
Today i was doing some final preparations for the trip. 
just checking the throttle as to why it was sticking on me again...

My dad apparently had nothing to do yesterday while i was at work, so he mounted the original "Escort" centre piece into the new steering wheel. 

Boot emptied out, then packed with only the stuff i (should) need 

Interior pic. Steering wheel looks much much better now it has the correct centre piece in  

Stick your fingers in where the the air comes out to blow on your feet. Get the engine hot first, if it's wet your heater core is f&@ked.


( I think I just inadvertently wrote a porno)

The carpet itself might be dry, your problem will most likely be wet/damp carpet underfelt from (as dean and valvebouncer said) either leaky plenum or heater core. Usually heater core leak will be passenger side and plenum leak will be drivers side.
Pull your carpet back and have a look.

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Do a search, I've plagiarised sly dogs usual post below. I'm probably going to go down this route will be plenty quick to make me shit myself.
 
And then want more power... slippery slope this
 
Plagiarism below
 
 
From Jase Stoodley...
One of the combos I ran through the years was very healthy and only mild and was fun on the street i thought i would put it up here.
 
Block: 80da bored & honed .030
Crank: 250 ground & balanced
Rods: 250 machined balanced and 302w ARP bolts fitted
Pistons: ACL 21cc dish - combined with a 50 odd cc head was about 9.5:1 comp.
Cam: 230@50 530lift hydro - great cam for these motors!
Head: open chamber carby unmarked ported, 1.85" in, 1.55" exh valves, turned out it flowed 320hp
Springs: crow 7333 doubles - head needs machining for these.
 
Other parts included rollmaster chain, yella terra street terra bolt ons, crow pushrods, romac balancer.
 
Used to run a ultraflow manifold with a 500 holley went well but changed over to a cain and 600 vacuum secondaries and what a difference.
 
Was running a Hall dizzy with a MSD 6AL and MSD digital timing computer- the equivalent now would be a 6AL-2 programmable running 36deg total timing.
 
Used a 2200stall in a c4 with 3.7 rear gears.
 
the car was a full street car cortina ran 13.6 @ 100mph then 13.3@103 when i changed to the 600vac and made 200rwhp
 
The thing is every thing below the head is still the same motor in the car now.

Do turbocharge it. Don't run a HV oil pump, Ando will spontaneously combust.

As Dean said or your heater core is leaking .

has a leak somewhere..
most common places:
door seals,
plenum rust,
windscreen leak..
 
its not going to have condensation from a dry floor.. it must be wet under the carpet in my opinion

Well I had some progress this arvo. I degreed the cam & it was within .5 of a degree straight up at dot to dot. I would up fitting the 40 thou style steel  "O" ring style head gaskets, so comp will be a tad higher than expected. The contact point of the roller on the tip of the valve stem is near on dead in the middle.

F246 has been the  basic go to all rounder for years with clevos. Was a very popular cam to use in the 90's for a tuff street clevo. Many were 12 second cars with pretty good drivability. With the better manifolds and heads available these days you could screw some decent power out of that same cam these days. In saying that theres probably many more grinds that would work better than that cam as well now.

Yep that's the one, not that is it?

I sort of do yes its in the settings with the square boxes that move around on the dash of the stereo.

You would obviously have your front to rear fader set correctly, but have you got the square thing on the display set correctly? It can be set to bias the driver, bias front passengers or rear passengers. Is that set so it's going to all passengers?
(Asuming you know what the hell i'm on about).

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Solids are cool as a kelvinator, but more work than a hydraulic

I love the sound of solids. Gives me a little stiffy.

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I love the sound of solids. Gives me a little stiffy.

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I love the sound of solids. Gives me a little stiffy.

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G'day mate. It had a XE274. It pulled 272HP at the wheels, but with less comp. I've just had 25thou taken off of the heads. It was good for a 13.3 1/4 mile pass with a top loader & 3.9 LSD 9". I'm hoping to exceed 300rwhp & drop it into the 12's.

Evening people. I'm just in he process of upgrading to a solid camshaft. Have decided to go with a Crane F246.
Its a 351 30 thou over with 4MA Crank, closed camber 2v's with port work. Roller rockers, airgap manifold with 750HP DP. MSD dizzy, 4 into 1 pace makers with twin 2.5 system. Also I have calculated the comp ratio & its 10.6 : 1.
Whats people's experience dailing in this cam & what kind of HP would I expect from it?
Cheers stu.

I've got the 'special' ones, they make more power.
(Runs for popcorn) hehe

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I've got the 'special' ones, they make more power.
(Runs for popcorn) hehe

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New bracket for spedo cable, now get full throttle. Flipped the lid on air filter still stumbles up high. Must be fuel. I only have the standard mech fuel pump. So next investment fuel pump, reg and lines. Any recomedations.

^^ what he said

That's some bloody good info Chris, needs to be put into its own thread and made sticky imho.

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Unscrew the idle solenoid, if the pin hasn't been cut off and there is no power running through it but the car idles at all your carb needs a rebuild. The idle circuit would be blocked.
Buy the major rebuild kit, it has schematics showing how the carb goes back together. Also buy a couple of can of carby cleaner, an old tooth brush to scrub it all down and blast everything and every hole with compressed air. The compressed air is crucial to cleaning out the galleries.