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Going to beat everyone in to it, make sure it’s a standard volume oil pump not high volume ! [emoji3] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hahaha I think we’ve been hanging around the forums too long Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

High volume give Ando high blood pressure Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Ha ha, ando will be here soon boys don't worry, gotta love how we all instantly knew what the joke was

yeah if i cant get the holley right before the weekend ill put some new diaphragms in a XE webber and put that back on had a look at the 3 i had and every webber had crusty as hell diaphragms and a few new gaskets just a minor rebuild i guess.

No I think on a stock 250, a 350 should have 57s in it. The flat spot might be a pump problem, but you need to establish that first by slowly opening the throttle and seeing if the flat spot comes at a steady state or on opening only. If it's happening while quickly opening the throttle, then the acc pump might need some tuning. First have a look at the squirter size, if they are any bigger than 28, that might be your problem. 25s would be ideal. The squirter diameter along with the pump cam determines how long the shot goes for. If you have something massive in there, it will dump it all in too early and either not leave enough to cover the transition or be too much for the engine to cope with at once, and drown it. Next look at the pump cam. There are charts available but I think the pink ones they normally come with are pretty good all rounders for most mild carbies. Also check pump arm adjustment and that the arm is engaging the cam. Sometimes these carbies were coming from the factory with the arm riding on the throttle return spring instead of the cam next to it. There is literature out there on the pump adjustment but briefly, open it to full throttle and check that there's a couple of mm clearance till the lever bottoms out the diaphragm. That's a ballpark method anyway. Adjust the little bolt with the spring on it. After ruling out the acc pump, check transition from the intermediate circuit (fed from the idle circuit but not adjustable) to the boosters (main circuit metered by the jets) by running the engine and slowly rolling the throttle open so that acc pump fuel doesn't affect mixture. Keep bringing the revs up while looking down the carby and noting any harshness or lean spots before fuel starts dribbling out of the boosters. If there is a stumble just before you see fuel, you have a lean spot between transition and main circuits, which can be cured by raising the float level. If you have an externally adjustable float needle, happy days. If not, unfortunately you have to pull off the bowl and bend the tab on the float lever till you get this right. Raising the float level does two things to the transition: it delivers fuel for longer out of the transition slots and has the boosters come on sooner in relation to throttle opening. In other words, it takes less airflow to get them working. Also check that nobody has messed with the bleeds. That will have the same effect of bringing the boosters on later. On a side note... It's a shame that you can't get hold of a good Weber. They are superior to the 350 in every way. If talking in 4 barrel terms, the 350 is really only 280 CFM. 2-barrels are tested to a higher vacuum (3”) than 4-barrels (1.5”) to obtain their maximum flow rating. Sent from my CPH1903 using Tapatalk

Wait for it

probably isn't one.. i haven't seen anyone keep the factory ecu etc if they did. otherwise you'd be going back in time so far you might need to search on xfalcon.com that site is still going, but not much happens there anymore. if you aren't doing head work, then a cam and valve springs and raising the compression would be the MILD? build.. (with extractors and 2.5" exhaust)